Found another S&W K Frame Transitional - what should I offer?

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jad0110

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Less than a year ago, I came up on a S&W K Frame Transitional .38 M&P (pre-model 10). These guns, having a s/n prefix of "S" ranging from S811338 - S99999 and were made from 1945 to 1948. These guns are referred to as transitional models because they were frequently equipped with both pre-war features (long actions, hole in the side of the frame for access to the lanyard ring lock pin and different style ejector rod knurling) and post war features (hammer block safety, modern ejector rod knurling, and short actions on guns made in late '48). The first M&P Transitional I found had a 6" barrel, long action, hammer block safety and was probably made in late '47 or early '48.

Well, I came upon another today. This one was likely produced in mid to late1945, judging by the s/n. It has a 5" barrel, older style ejector rod (used from 1930 - 1946) and no hammer block safety. Finish is very good, at about 85-90%, and appears to be original. It is in excellent mechanical condition (passed all the checks with flying colors). However, the walnut magna stocks do not have diamonds over the screw holes, so they are not original, and they are in fair condition.

The gun is priced at $275. I've not decided if I'm going to spring for this one yet, as there are other guns on my wish list, and I do have one M&P transitional already. But if I do, I want a very good deal if I decide to go for it. I'm considering offering $250 cash, maybe as low as $240.

The gun served as this gunshop's draw gun for decades, so they probably don't have a lot tied up in it.

Any thoughts?
 
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In my area $275 isn't enough to pick up a shot loose abused model 10 wearing worn out hogues.

I'd be all over it, 5" is such a nice length of barrel on that gun.
 
$240 cash sounds like a good starting offer, If he doesn't like it you can always go up if you feel it's worth it. Around here you're not going to find any used Smith for less than $300.
 
I have never seen or heard of a "S" series serial numbered K-frame that didn't have the post-war hammer block. In fact the purpose of the "S" was to identify those revolvers that had the block. If this particular gun doesn't have it I suspect someone removed it. If that's the case it can (and should be) replaced.

If it really doesn't have the block, and never did, then it's likely a revolver that was made prior to the war, but not shipped until after it. Examples are known, but they don't have a "S" prefix in the serial number.

Most of the very early post-war revolvers were made using wartime parts, so most therefore have either 4 or 5-in barrels. Check the bottom of the butt to see if the hole for a lanyard loop was pluged - a sure sign of early production.

As for the price - it seems to be very reasonable, unless it's a .38-200 that was rechambered to .38 Special.

Since this gun doesn't seem to be what would be expected in all particulars, check it out very carefully.
 
I paid ~$285 for this one earlier this year. Grips are original but refinished :banghead: (and the refinisher put the right S&W medallion back on upside down).

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I have never seen or heard of a "S" series serial numbered K-frame that didn't have the post-war hammer block. In fact the purpose of the "S" was to identify those revolvers that had the block. If this particular gun doesn't have it I suspect someone removed it. If that's the case it can (and should be) replaced.

If it really doesn't have the block, and never did, then it's likely a revolver that was made prior to the war, but not shipped until after it. Examples are known, but they don't have a "S" prefix in the serial number.

Most of the very early post-war revolvers were made using wartime parts, so most therefore have either 4 or 5-in barrels. Check the bottom of the butt to see if the hole for a lanyard loop was pluged - a sure sign of early production.

As for the price - it seems to be very reasonable, unless it's a .38-200 that was rechambered to .38 Special.

Since this gun doesn't seem to be what would be expected in all particulars, check it out very carefully.

Old Fuff, as always, your posts are filled with detailed information that is always tremendously helpful. Thank you, and everyone else who has responded.

Now that I think of it, I didn't look down the hammer slot in the frame real closesly, so it is entirely possible that my eyes played tricks on me and I missed the hammer block. Come to think of it, the easiest thing to look for is the slot cut in the sideplate for the block to fit into.

I'll have to check the butt of the gun as well for a plugged hole, though I don't recall seeing any evidence of such.

I'll be hitting a local gun show this weekend. Depending on how that goes, I might swing back by and make a $225 offer and see what happens.
 
Maj Dad said:
Grips are original but refinished

Did they try to sand the checkering off them? Some folks shouldn't be trusted with abrasives. :(

As for the OP, I think it sounds fair.
 
Come to think of it, the easiest thing to look for is the slot cut in the sideplate for the block to fit into.

An equal or easier way is to look when the hammer's cocked and see if a big notch is cut out of the front, just under the hammer nose (firing pin).
 
For $235, I figured, why not?

I offered $235 for the gun and took it home with me. My little boy was already eyeing it when I brought it in the door. Told him that if he is a good little man, he can have it in time for the gun's 82nd birthday :cool: .

As I said, the stocks aren't original, but the rest of the gun is in pretty darn good shape finish wise. Mechanically, it may as well be new.


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