Carbon_15
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tagged....
great photos all
great photos all
Nem, if you're primarily an autoloader guy, your grip may be a bit too high on the frame. That'll make the gun point low, and you'll be compensating by adjusting your grip as you line up the sights. The bore should ride a bit high in your hand.at both 12 and 25 yds,
my shots were predominantly (95%) left and slightly high.
We need a 19/66 club. We can't let the 686 and 642 guys have all the fun
This is the K Frame Club, as such all K Frame Smith & Wesson revolvers are welcome here. Your humble host currently owns a 5" pre-10 M&P, 2.5" 66, 6" K-22 Target Masterpiece, and a 3" 65. I think I need a 4" K next.Can the 13/65 users join?????
Yeah, I agree. I thought about starting one.Your questions deserve their own thread.
Check.On the light strike. From what you say there is likely nothing wrong with the gun. It may have simply been a slightly harder than usual primer. That the load went off with the second hammer strike tends to indicate this along with the info that the other 35 went off as planned.
Now this is interesting.Check to see that the strain screw (the screw that is located on the front of the grip strap) is not all the way out. You may want to turn it in a quarter turn. This will give you a harder hammer strike it will also make the da pull slightly harder as well but possibly not so hard as you will notice it much.
Good points there.When the round did not go off you say you lowered the piece to 45 degrees, pointing at the floor. What I prefer to do (and a rule at the ranges I've been at) is keep the barrel pointed down range, this way if the round should go off (a hangfire) the gun is pointed in a safe direction. At 45 degrees a ricocheting round can go any number of places.
A little SA, mostly DA.You don't say whether you were shooting da or sa.
So that's what it is!Check to see that the strain screw (the screw that is located on the front of the grip strap) is not all the way out
Nem, I agree. The K frames are poular, and widely available. My hope is for this thread to grow into a great centralized resource for these revolvers, following the lines of the 642 club.Your questions deserve their own thread.
Yeah, I agree. I thought about starting one.
But since so many K-frames are "used" now, I thought this could be a useful contribution to the K club.
Yep, you can tweak it that way. A drop in hammer spring from Wolff is another way to adjust the pull without doing anything to the internals that can't be reversed.So that's what it is!
Interesting. So... you can adjust your trigger pull without any professional gunsmith, just a screwdriver? Nice. Not likely to ever use it, but it's nice to have.
My hope is for this thread to grow into a great centralized resource for these revolvers, following the lines of the 642 club.
I hope folks will continue to post all sorts of K frame questions and get answers here.
With cylinder latch forward, I can't pull the trigger on either my 642 or my 65. So, I just pulled and held the trigger on both (double checked for unloaded status first, of course), and inserted the dime into the slot against the back plate.I pushed the cylinder latch forward then pulled and held the trigger. I placed a dime flat against the back plate and right next to the extended firing pin. The tip of the pin is just shy of the edge of the dime. How does yours compare?
Eric, I'm not currently an auto-loader shooter, though I have been in the past. Now switching over to all revolvers. I may be carry through some bad habits. I'll take this into consideration in dry fire practice and next time I'm at the range ... soon as I get the new grips.Eric said:Nem, if you're primarily an autoloader guy, your grip may be a bit too high on the frame. That'll make the gun point low, and you'll be compensating by adjusting your grip as you line up the sights. The bore should ride a bit high in your hand.
That's currently my working hypothesis. This K-frame is smaller than the 686 (L-frame) I just sold, so shorter LOP. I'll be putting the SB grips on the 65 - as soon as Hogue gets them out to me - and they have more material on the back strap. I'll see how that affects my trigger pull.As far as hitting left, you may just have too much finger on the trigger.
Nematocyst said:With cylinder latch forward, I can't pull the trigger on either my 642...
Ooooooh. Now I get it. I was misinterpreting the directions.fiVe said:With the cylinder open (you know, ready for loading), I can push the cylinder latch forward which then allows me to pull the trigger. I wonder why it is different for you?
Thanks for the info! Liking this gun more every day.Yep, you can tweak it that way. A drop in hammer spring from Wolff is another way to adjust the pull without doing anything to the internals that can't be reversed.
Yep, looks like the S&W micro-click rear was replaced with a Millett unit. The front looks stock with orange paint added on the ramp below the factory orange insert.Looks like aftermarket sights fore and aft.