Garand Issues-light primer strike & accuracy

[D.B. Cooper]

So I recently stripped my M1 down to parts and pieces, cleaned, degreased, oiled and greased everything, and then reassembled and installed on a new Dupage stock.

Just got back from the range and somewhat disappointed.

Issue 1.) Light primer strikes. The first and third shots fired at the range were misfires due to light primer strikes. This gun has never ever FTF. It was cold (8˚F). There was an almost invisible mark on the primer. A second attempt and both rounds fired and extracted fine. (PPU M2 Ball). The remainder of 40 rounds fired and extracted fine....Is this weather related perhaps? Operator error? (I loaded all 40 rounds single with no clip or SLED-which is how I've always done slow fire.) Is this even something to worry about?

Issue 2.) Accuracy. I've read here and elsewhere that the M1 will "shoot like crap" after a complete field stripping. By the end of 40 rounds fired I had it down to 1.5" MOA groups (100 yards), but never could get the groups to print in exactly the same place. (above the bull, below the bull, a flier here and there.) Is this due to...

A.) Me. I haven't really shot this gun a lot in many years.

B.) I noticed the gas tub has a slight jiggle in it. I've read that a loose tube will affect accuracy. I assume this is due to the position of the front sight? When I cleaned the rifle, I scoured a lot of crud out of the alignment grooves in the barrel. Is this something that will correct itself after a hundred rounds or so? I've read about shot peening either the barrel of the tube and I REALLY don't want to do either. Thoughts/suggestions?

C.) Is this due to the new stock? The stock is super tight with no slop or play. I decided against bedding it because of the ruled for the JCG type matches.

Anything you guys can think of that I should take a look at or consider? This used to be a pretty good shooter...15 yrs ago with hand loads and a 15 yrs younger shooter behind it.

 

[Reloadron]

Issue 1 you have nothing to lose taking the bolt down to parade rest (totally strip). At 8 Deg F. if there is any grease in the firing pin channel it can result in light primer strikes. This of course assumes good properly primed cases and a rifle with a known good chamber meeting headspace dimensions.

Issue 2 is a matter of shooter, rifle and the ammunition in my opinion. I have never had a M1 Garand shoot any differently as to point of aim and point of impact following full disassembly and reassembly. Now a change in stock? Yes, especially depending on how the action fits the new stock. When pressing down the trigger guard you want to start feeling resistance when it is about 3/4" of home position. Really important for accuracy that the rifle action fit very snug in the stock. There should be no play.

When a gas tube begins to wiggle or have play you may want to peen the splines on the barrel. HOW TO PROPERLY “PEEN” A BARREL is a good start. You really do not want play in that gas tube.

Ron

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Well, thanks for the input from both of you. This was actually the first time I have ever field stripped my (or any) M1. The play in gas tube is very minute, but I expected to hear that I'll have to deal with it. Ron's link to the how to on shot peening is pretty straight forward. I've peened a lot of wheel bearings and hubs, so it's not a new procedure; I'd just hate to do it to a gun because you can never go back.

The gas tube came off pretty hard (had to drive it off with a rubber hammer), but after cleaned the gun out of the channels, it went on a lot easier. I knew then something was amiss.

Wondering if the stock is too tight, but I don't know how that would even be possible. Seems to me...tighter the better.

Tempted to go buy a lead sled or some sort of vise to see what the gun is really doing (without my influence).

 

[Bart B.]

My observations in folk's Garands' shallow denting primers was usually caused by two things combined. Short firing pin tip and excessive headspace. This could easily add .010" to case head clearance to bolt face reducing that dent in the primer that much. The other which adds to that is reloaded cases whose shoulders are set back way too far.

Regarding accuracy after field stripping the Garand and having to shoot several times to "reseat" the barrel group in the stock. What some people used for both bolt guns and Garands used as match rifles is an action seating block. A block of wood a few inches square half inch or so thick. With the receiver close to fit in the stock, put the muzzle against that block as it's against a tree, table or the ground, push the stock forward to seat the receiver parts fully back against the stock wood they bear against, then tighten the clamping hardware, screws on bolt guns or trigger guard on Garands. Some folks put match book covers between Garand floor plates and stock to keep the "in battery" fit tight. A few bolt guns were also fit the same way if their wood was compressed enough to let the front screw go up into the receiver preventing the bolt lugs from going into battery.

 

[Reloadron]

I should have added what Bart was kind enough to include. A new stock should be snug, real snug and when sending the trigger guard hope you want to do exactly as Bart suggested and put forward pressure on the heel of the stock so the action is as far back in the stock as it will go. When a stock became loose allowing the action forward and backward movement the fix on an otherwise good stock was to glue some hardwood veneer in place.

If the rifle still feels loose in the stock take a look at where the trigger guard pivots on the trigger group housing and make sure the holes are round and not becoming egg shaped or worn. Also the trigger guard lugs which engage the receiver are not worn.

Ron