Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by anapex, Jun 13, 2005.
That said, there isn't much else to do after you get the rust out and use a decent oil to just put a thin film in the bore for short term storage between range cessions. I'd just check it day to day. to make sure nothing develops. Hopefully the rust/pitting won't affect the accuracy too much.
Could you have gotten to the point that what you think is rust, is really copper fouling?
Just out of curiosity, you didn't happen to buy that "non-corrosive" ammunition from SOG, did you? See, they don't sell corrosive ammunition... even their Indian .303, 60's & 70's Yugo 7.62x54 ball and Turkish 8x57 ammunition is non-corrosive.
SOG's a great company to order firearms from, but their long-standing practices of listing widely known corrosive ammunition as "non-corrosive" to boost sales is simply disgusting.
After firing, we would set up the field mess, with garbage cans full of boiling water to clean our M1s
Nope. It was definitely rust. Looks like I'll keep cleaning it for the next couple days and try to find some blue wonder to run through it. The ammo was Korean surplus but it was from Natchez not SOG.
A copper solvent is excellent along with this treatment because corrosive salts can become trapped under copper fouling and continue to corrode the steel even though the bore looks shiney new, this is where some really deep pits come to occur.
Believe it or not, plain old Hoppes #9 is another very good product for killing corrosive salts. This is what it was origianally designed for.
Won't remove copper fouling for love or money but it is very good on powder and primer fouling.
Many have said that Hoppes doesn't kill corrosive salt residue but it does, problem is it doesn't remove that copper fouling and that is where corrosive ammunition can bite you.
Corrosive salt remained trapped under copper fouling that Hoppes just couldn't remove
#9 was invented back when lead bullets ruled the shooting world and removing plain or alloyed lead this stuff will do quite well.
Get rid of the metal fouling and you can get rid of the corrosive stuff, leave the metal fouling and leave the corrosive stuff too.
Hoppes Benchrest Copper Solvent can be used first, the bore thoroughly dried and then cleaned with standard #9 this will remove 99% of the copper and 99% of the corrosive salt and powder fouling.
Remember to oil or lightly grease the bore when you are done cleaning.
This will slow corrosive tendancies since it inhibits oxygen from reacting with the oxidizer, the corrive salts.
Keep the oxygen out and the salt residue can't react and continue to merrily eat the steel in your barrel.
I've always had good results with plain old #9 and copper fouling. It works fine if you give it a couple of minutes to work (assuming you aren't dunking bore brushes directly into the bottle). It's not as aggressive as the benchrest formula or sweets, but it works.
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