"Garand Safe" 30-06 hand loads?

[sappnasty]

Does anyone have a good recipe for a "Garand Safe" 30-06 handload? I should be getting my M1's on Tuesday and want to start reloading as soon as I get em. I will be initially using the Greek Ball brass I bought from the CMP? Helpful tips, tricks and advice would be great. Anyone on this forum reload for your M1? Please let me know what you do. Thanks.

Sapp

 

[john wall]

I have used this load for decades in a number of Garands. Commercial or military brass.

47.5 gr Accurate 2520, 147-168 gr pill.

 

[Sport45]

Use powder no slower than IMR4320 or faster than IMR3031 with bullets between 147 and 168gr and you'll be fine.

What powders do you have that fall into this range? I've burnt a lot of IMR4320 in my M1 but the next loads will be AA2495.

 

[Redhat]

I keep it simple. I use the data in either Sierra or Hornady books as they have specific loads for the M1 listed. Sierra especially includes a lot of information on how to load for the M1.

 

[Mals9]

I looked at a Hornady book today and they do not list IMR 4895 for use in the 150 grain bullet weight. I thought that was the predominant powder for the M1 with the 150 grain that replicates the ball ammo. I have just started down the reloading path and just sized my first cases this week.

Mals

 

[rg1]

I use LC or Greek brass, Remington 9 1/2 primers, and IMR 4895 powder. I shoot 150 gr. M2 ball military surplus bullets or Hornady's 150 FMJ using 47-47.5 grains for all the 150 grain bullets. I would consider 46 grains a minimum charge with 150 grain bullets and 48 to be a maximum load using IMR 4895 powder. I've also shot with the same load with Hornady's 150 grain SST bullet. 150 gr. ball bullets are out of stock at some places but still available at GIBRASS.COM or here:http://www.wideners.com/itemview.cfm?startrow=13&dir=278|281|727
150 grain ball military bullets seated to an overall length at 3.320" and Hornady 150 fmj's to Hornady's recommended length which is seated to mid-cannelure. Remove the Greek HXP brass primer crimp with your case mouth deburr tool. A couple twists will remove the primer stake marks. Make SURE that primers are seated below flush to prevent the possibility of slam-fires. Garand chambers are on the long side and brass shot in your Garand can cause the shoulder to be expanded forward as much as .008-.010". If you full length size pushing the shoulder back to "zero" every time you will overwork your brass and it can lead to case stretching and possible case separations.
I highly recommend a case headspace gauge such as Hornady's headspace gauge set so you can measure and set your sizing die to only push the shoulders back a measured amount or about .002-.004". Here's a good article on the Hornady Headspace set. http://www.inlandshooters.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99&sid=fd1cb67fa27b2917dcd74ed0a29fd314
Here's a link for recommended NRA data for the M1 Garand. I'd consider these to be maximum loads and should be worked up to.
http://web.archive.org/web/20000620055732/home.att.net/~Masterpo/M1load.htm

 

[MEHavey]

Her are all the Garand loads you will probably ever need:

http://masterpostemple.bravepages.com/M1load.htm

 

[P-32]

I would use CCI primers over Winchesters if using a stick powder.

OK if you want to see just how good your M-1 is going to shoot, I would get a box of the 155 gr. SMK "palma" bullets. With your brass clean and shiney, place 46.7 grs of IMR 4064 in the case and stuff a 155 palma bullet on top. I would start things with a CCI primer or even a CCI BR primer. This load is not going to stress your rifle, but it sure shoots in 2 of my M-1's.

You should be able to make bug holes at a 100.

This load has worked well in my Springer S/G and my H&R Correct grade. This load will fly to 600 yards and hit the 10 ring if you do your part over and over on a 600 yard target.

 

[hancjamk]

If I believe my history is correct. IMR 4895 which stands for Improved Military Rifle was designed specifically for the M1 Garand during the WWII era. I also, understand that IMR4895 has the most efficient and correct burn rate for the M1 and M1A/M14 operating system.

 

[Joatmon]

+1 for the use of IMR 4895. The pressure curve for the powder burn rate was found to be about ideal for the gas system and OP rod tolerace of the rifle. There are likely other powders that come close to this burn rate but why make a change? A lot of DCM matches were won with this.

 

[sappnasty]

Thanks for the information fellas....I think I'm gonna make a trip to get some supplies here soon.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

The "classic" M1 Garand 30-06 load is a 150gr bullet over 47.0gr IMR4895.

I suggest using either a CCI200 primer or better yet the CCI #34 NATO primers. They are harder to prevent slam-fires.

 

[chris in va]

That's what I use, no problems with my CMP Garand after 400 or so rounds. 150gr pulled surplus bullets. You can also size up any 270 brass you may find, or commercial 30-06 brass at the range. The Greek HXP reloads well though and I've got at least four so far without splits.

 

[jem375]

Another good powder for the Garand is IMR4064....

 

[W.E.G.]

From the CMP discussion forum:
http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=29638&highlight=hornady+amax

 

[Taroman]

When I got my M1, 4895 of any persuasion was not available after the herd paniced.

I found Hodgdon's Varget to have a "correct" burn rate for M1 use and its proved to be another good Garand powder.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I line 45.0 grains of H4895 behind a 150 grain bullet.

Generally speaking, pick an appropriate powder -- not a slow-burning powder, as others have mentioned. Then go with the recommended starting load in the manual.

 

[NCsmitty]

The "classic" M1 Garand 30-06 load is a 150gr bullet over 47.0gr IMR4895.

ArchAngelCD has the correct information. It's a near duplicate of the standard M2 ball load.



NCsmitty

 

[P-32]

I've used lots of IMR 4895 in a Garand. I've found IMR 4064 seems to shoot tighter groups. I would rather have smaller groups than a duplicate of M2 ball. If I want to shoot some M2, I'll just break some out.