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Garand Short stroking

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DonTremaine

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Joined
Sep 20, 2009
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California
I read here about someone who had this same problem. I followed one of the directions to remove the spring so the bolt and operating rod would fall forward and reward under just gravity. Mine seemed to have one place where it started to stick. I tracked it down to the hammer and bolt contact. When the bolt goes to the rear it cocks the hammer. There is some slop in the cocked position which puts upward pressure on the bolt. I placed a small piece of plastic to hold the hammer so it did not touch the bolt. Now it falls both ways freely. The sticking only occurs if the trigger guard is almost closed. Is this normal? If not how would this be corrected? Or are there other suggestions?
Thanks,
DonTremaine
 
The "tilt test" is done with the rifle completely stripped of everything but the bolt, op rod, and gas system.
Stock, trigger unit, and recoil spring is off.

The rifle is tilted at a 45 degree angle and the action should open all the way from gravity.
Tilt forward 45 degrees and the action should close.

The test to determine if the rifle has a problem is to shoot the rifle. If it fires, extracts and ejects, and reloads properly, there's no problem.
If it's short stroking, first replace the recoil spring with a USGI specification spring. NO EXTRA POWER.
In the M1 the spring is not just a recoil spring, it powers the entire action and it requires a specification spring. A bad spring or a non-GI spec spring can cause all sorts of odd problems.
Buy a new USGI spec spring from Fulton Armory or Orion 7 Enterprises. They make new production spec springs.

Next GREASE the rifle.
In the M1 oil is used to prevent rust. The lubricant is grease. There's online charts showing where to grease, or buy a GI manual.

If the rifle still has trouble, look for a gas leak.
Places to check are to make sure the gas cylinder lock screw is down tight and that the valve in the screw is sealing properly. A loose screw or weak spring in the valve or some grit stuck under the valve may hold it open and leak. Any problems with the screw.... replace it.

Look for excess soot from firing around the gas cylinder and barrel indicating a leak. There'll normally be some sooting present.

Have the gas cylinder and gas piston head gaged to insure they're a proper fit with each other.

Check the gas port in the barrel to insure it's not rusted or clogged, and make sure the port is properly centered in the opening of the gas cylinder.
DO NOT start digging into the gas port and damage or open it up. Use a brass wire to clean only if the port is clogged.

Buy an M3-A1 Combination Tool, and use the chamber brush to thoroughly scrub the chamber. Inspect for rust, rings or bulges, or other damage.
 
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You can usually check the barrel bearing by eyeball to see if there is leakage. Also check the outside diameter of the piston and the inside diameter of the cyinder to be sure they are within specs. Those areas are responsible for most short stroking in an M1; stuff like the spring or rubbing rarely are the cause.

Jim
 
I was advised to change the op rod spring with a new one from Fulton Armory. The new spring is much stiffer and about an inch longer. I do not seem to have metal to wood rubbing. The stock is a brand new walnut from Boyds. The barrel is also new I think from surplus in Europe, The receiver is a new manufacturer from Canada. I have not tried it since I replaced the spring. I can't seem to figure out how to get the op rod off to inspect the gas piston and cylinder. I have a military service manual but it does not help.
Don
 
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To take OP rod off, strip Garand down, Pull the operating rod to the rear of its handle is directly under the forward edge of the windage knob. (there is a slot there). With an upward an outward movement, disengage the guide lug of the OP rod through its dimount notch in the reciever. Remove OP rod by rotating it downward an pulling it out to the rear.
 
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