Generic countertop any good for a reloading bench surface?

[johndoe1027]

I have a leftover piece of your average countertop leftover form the Kitchen remodel. I've been moving it from room to room for over a year now because it was too expensive to throw away and you know how someone always needs a piece of countertop.

Would it be any good to use for my 1st reloading bench top? My original idea was 3/4" plywood with a piece of Melemime on top to give me something that cleans easily. The couter top has the back splash on it so that could come in handy to keep things from rolling off of the back? I would either make a plate for the backside to reinforce where the press will bolt in or maybe just use some huge fender washers. The wood that's underneath the couter top surface is softer than plywood but I think it will hold up.

Dumb idea? If so, why? Please forgive my intense reloading newbness.

Thanks!

 

[Thirties]

Formica is more durable than melamine. I use a formica counter-top for my reloading table surface. It is an excellent choice. Just make sure it is thick enough to not flex.

 

[jfh]

If it's truly the average--maybe made up of formica over a 3/4 light density core, with another 'edge layer' for thickness--then it will need to be reinforced.

I wouldn't use it for mounting presses unless the bench base had, for example, a 2x4 stringer / top rail. And, if your reloading style includes stacking heavy components on the benchtop, then I would put a third stringer in the middle as well.

 

[wcwhitey]

JFH is correct, if it is only the 3/4" fiberboard with a border edge layer, just fill the under cavity with the 3/4" playwood you planned on using. That will make a very sturdy table top. Formica is an excellent loading surface, easy to keep clean and is durable. Good Luck, Bill

 

[Brian Williams]

Good advice so far, use it.

 

[jhansman]

The additional plywood probably would be just the thing to make the counter top work. I ended up gluing/screwing two 3/4" plywood sheets together and finishing the top with several coats of acrylic, but I think I like your idea better.

 

[jfh]

Well, FWIW--I used to be a remodelling contractor. When I built my "dreambench" in '93, I had a subcontractor build a

1. 2&1/4" top that was extra deep--30", maybe 32"--out of MDO core. Maybe it was even high density. There was also the 'particle-board' underside finish applied. No damn c-clamps and awkward mounting plates in the way.

2. The front stringer was a doubled 2x4 (for clearance), and the mid-and-back stringers were 2x6s.

3. I permanently installed my presses, even to the extent of drilling the extra primer-drop holes. T-nuts on the bottom eliminated dropped nuts and washers.

My shop had a 9' or 10' ceiling in that part of the basement--and I built shelving out of 2x_ stock as well. (Cheaper than 5/4)--except for access issues, I could've gone floor-to-ceiling with bullets.

As I said, it was my dreambench--and now I no longer live there.

wcwhitey and jhansman are right about how to reinforce it.

But, if the info here encourages you to get a custom top, then the OEM countertop is always usable as the desktop, cleaning bench, whatever.

Jim

 

[johndoe1027]

Excellent! Thanks a lot for the advice fellas. I will fill in the middle of the underside with a layer of 3/4" plywood and maybe a couple of 2x4" stringers under that. I was planning on making the bench out of 2x4's anyway. A couple of extras won't be a big deal. Plus I just got a new circular saw that I need to break in so it's not so new looking. The piece of top I have is 5' long (and 2' deep) and I was going to make the bench 6' by 2.5' but it should be enough for loading only one caliber right? I've seen pics of much smaller benches that people make do with.

Will the rounded front edge pose a problem when it comes time to mount the press? I could cut the edge back to make it square in that spot if I need to. I might have to just cross that bridge once my press comes in.

Very very cool. This will save me a little cash AND make some more floor space upstairs.

 

[jfh]

If your countertop has that rounded AND RAISED

lip at the front, look to see if that front edge is glued on and a separate piece--if it is, there's your weak point. So, infill the countertop and install the plywood completely flush with the front edge. Make sure those infill pieces are the correct thickness.

Use a continuous bead of a construction adhesive to make the plywood reinforcer truly continuous. Clamp it as needed, and if you use wood / sm screws to further attach it to the countertop (you should) SELECT THE RIGHT LENGTH SO THEY DO NOT BREAK THROUGH THE FORMICA.

I speak from experience--there is nothing like putting in the new countertops in the homeowner's dream kitchen and having them see the formica 'popping' a hole every time I snugged up the installation screws before I did. Fortunately, her scream--and the 'prick' my fingers received as I reached up to lever myself out from inside the base to stand up--gave me only two spare countertops to take home. And, they were custom-cut, so I had no use for them....

Since you have not built this--consider putting it at a custom height or bar height--e.g., about 42"--depending on how you like to work. I like working at a higher bench when standing (I'm 6'1"), and I like using a LOWER STOOL" when I'm sitting and cranking; It's easier on my eyes, and back, and arms.

If you have not done it, think through and layout your workbench--down to the last inch of length. There are layout drawings on line (architectural standards), and 1/4" graph paper will go a long way to helping a non-drawer. If you really think it through now, You may well sort out all sorts of tricks to help you. For example, build the bench lower shelf heavy-duty, too--and maybe not as deep--it's a good place for bullet inventory. (Better than the 9' shelf).

If one end of the bench is "open"--say by the doorway, consider making the base about six inches shorter and building a 2x6 "bookcase" there for your loaded round boxes.

And on, and on...the general point is, plan it comprehensively now, and plan it all the way through--start with the cleaning location, then move to prep space and then to loading, and finally through to storage.

BE VERY SURE TO shim the press so it mounts 'square'. You could use metal, but a hobby shop will have very thin, small pieces of very expensive plywood that should be ideal.

As for length: My new bench is 4'6" long, and I carefully located two presses on it. It'll work fine for me--crowded a bit, but I don't socialize while I'm loading.

ADDED:. My personal preference is to have a BIG overhang and mount the presses "outside" the base--otherwise, the bench rails can be in the way of press mounting screws and you will have to use lags--which eventually pull out. However, you could (a) mount the countertop nominally 6" from the wall to achieve that overhang, and then build the 2x6 (or whatever) shelving 'behind' it.

At any rate, think it through.

Jim

 

[johndoe1027]

Thanks a lot for the tips Jim. I was trying to come up with crafty and inexpensive tricks for storage. This bench is temporary in the sense that I hope to sell this house by the end of the year so I'm not going to spend a lot of money on it since hopefully the next house will have a lot more room for a reloading area. This one is going in my laundry room / closet that's 12' by 13'. There's already a lot of other stuff in there so I just have a 6' section of wall that's in front of a window to work with.

I was going to start by building the frame (at a good height for me) attaching the top, mounting the press, then seeing where selving will fit and work best. I like the idea of a shallower shelf underneath. That way you can still sit and not have your shins banging into a shelf. Nice. I also like the shallow end-shelves (how did you know one end will face a doorway? ). I do not have anywhere for a over head shelf here so all of the shelves I can cram under this thing will be great. I might try to make something that will hold akro bins just above the top surface. Still not sure about that one yet though. Haven't even submitted that to R and D yet. I thought about adding a few drawers for smaller stuff in addition to some larger shelves. Maybe find some rails at the Depot and just make some shelves with short walls that could slide in and out. Again, nothing is set in stone just yet. I'm going to have a buddy that reloads come over once I get the frame together to help me brainstorn. He is really creative. That will help a lot.

Thanks so much for the suggestions Jim, you are an asset to this forum.

 

[1 old 0311]

I use a old solid wood door I got from a demolished house. Can't hurt it.

 

[johndoe1027]

I have an old house and leftover doors but they have details on them that would make it a total PITA to clean. I'm assuming yours is flat. Good idea though. Crafty!

I checked and the front detail (curve downward) on the countertop is actually another piece of wood but I think if I back that up with the correct thickness plywood (so that the bottom is flat) then it should hold up fine. I might still cut a notch into it for the press to bolt to so that it will the as stable as possible.

 

[jeepmor]

1. You can notch the round over nose and fill it with adequate ply or solid wood to make a square nosed place to mount your press. Those front nose pieces are typically made with 1/2" or 3/4" particle board.

2. You might find a rebuilders warehouse (in Oregon, it's named The Rebuilders Store) and find yourself some old cabinets for storage. I did this and got a couple old upper cabinets that afforded me more storage than I need....room to grow. I have two 30" wide double door cabinets side by side. Try to get adjustable shelf models if possible, these are great when storing my tumbler, tall powder bottles and so on. If you don't have a rebuilders supply house, the Depot outfits have good ones that are melamine coated inside and out making them real easy to keep clean. The rebuilders outfits are just cheaper. I got 6 larger upper cabinets for my garage for $70. The Depot outfits would be about twice that, maybe more.

3. Spice rack size shelves are great to keep stuff up off the bench and reduce countertop clutter. I put two on the wall, below my upper cabinets above the bench. I cannabalized and old spice rack I made way back in college. Works great, I now put my powder scale on it, the current powder being used next to it and the small hand tools (calipers, allen wrenches, die wrenches, etc.) on it to keep it neat and tidy and keep those rolly polly things from landing under my jeep, where everything I drop seems to land....except for missing dryer socks.

Hope this helps in your planning. There's a few great bench picture threads somewhere in this section, great ideas can be had there. Have fun and load safe rounds.

jeepmor

 

[dan22644]

I think the cheap laminate counter tops make the best workbench you can get for the money, as long as you reinforce them with a few 2x4s along the front and wall.

Think about it. The back splash keeps small parts from rolling off the back near the wall, there are no gaps in the surface for dirt to build up in or trap small parts (or primers), nothing will soak into it like a plain wood surface, easy to wipe off, and the rounded edge doesn't dig into your arm if you leaning against it.

 

[W Turner]

I built mine out of 2x4's and a single piece of MDF. The frame of the bench is 8' long by 24" deep. Perfect size for me and the area I work in. It is topped with MDF and I haven't had any issues with the press pulling the bolts out yet. I gorilla glued the top onto mine and topped the MDF with cheap vinyl tiles leftover from a living room remodel.


W

 

[Walkalong]

I use a old solid wood door I got from a demolished house. Can't hurt it.

Grainger sells "legs" in pairs that work perfect for making work tables from doors. We have made several for use in our shop. A nicely finished solid commercial door makes a great work surface.

 

[Art Eatman]

My reloading "bench" is nothing but a piece of 1/2" plywood, 8' x 2'. My press is centered above one of the vertical supports. In resizing, all the force is downward onto the support.

Art