CMV
Member
Don't have any wheel guns & never loaded for them. Ready to get a .357 Magnum revolver & will need to feed it.
I have lots of .357 & .38 brass people have given me over the years. Otherwise I'd like to use as much stuff as I already have.
1. Will need dies. Same set for both or are they separate?
2. I have the Lee carbide sets that come with the FCD for all my other pistol calibers (9mm, .380, .357SIG, .40, .45ACP). Any reason to not get the same for this?
3. I use Win231 for all my pistol loading now. Same for .357 & .38? I also use H335, H110, & A1680 for .223 & .300BLK if any of those would be better choices. I'd like to avoid another flavor of powder if possible unless there's a tremendous difference with something else.
4. Do I need magnum pistol primers or will regular work ok? I use & stock CCI #41, #300, & #500
5. Currently I don't trim any pistol brass. Same for these or is there a need?
6. Can I use my current 9mm or .357SIG bullets or do I need something different? Montana Gold 115gr CMJ for 9mm & MG 125gr FMJ for .357SIG. Both mic .3555. I'd guess my RMR pull 95gr FMJ I use for .380 (also .3555) are way too small.
7. Anything unusual or different I should be aware of loading for a revolver vs autoloader or rifle? I think most people shoot lead in these calibers. Is there a reason to go with lead vs jacketed?
8. Is there a reason to load .38 at all? Should I mess with both? I think most people shoot .38 in their .357's because factory ammo is cheaper. I doubt there's be a whole lot of difference in price per round loading the two. Would just loading a mild .357 in effect be the same thing as using .38?
I'll be loading for general range use/plinking. I'd like something fairly inexpensive but accurate. Not hunting or using it for CCW/HD so I don't care about penetration, expansion, etc. Won't be trying to wring every last possible FPS out of it. Haven't bought the gun yet but will probably end up with something like a GP100 or 686 with at least a 4" barrel - not a single action cowboy gun.
I have lots of .357 & .38 brass people have given me over the years. Otherwise I'd like to use as much stuff as I already have.
1. Will need dies. Same set for both or are they separate?
2. I have the Lee carbide sets that come with the FCD for all my other pistol calibers (9mm, .380, .357SIG, .40, .45ACP). Any reason to not get the same for this?
3. I use Win231 for all my pistol loading now. Same for .357 & .38? I also use H335, H110, & A1680 for .223 & .300BLK if any of those would be better choices. I'd like to avoid another flavor of powder if possible unless there's a tremendous difference with something else.
4. Do I need magnum pistol primers or will regular work ok? I use & stock CCI #41, #300, & #500
5. Currently I don't trim any pistol brass. Same for these or is there a need?
6. Can I use my current 9mm or .357SIG bullets or do I need something different? Montana Gold 115gr CMJ for 9mm & MG 125gr FMJ for .357SIG. Both mic .3555. I'd guess my RMR pull 95gr FMJ I use for .380 (also .3555) are way too small.
7. Anything unusual or different I should be aware of loading for a revolver vs autoloader or rifle? I think most people shoot lead in these calibers. Is there a reason to go with lead vs jacketed?
8. Is there a reason to load .38 at all? Should I mess with both? I think most people shoot .38 in their .357's because factory ammo is cheaper. I doubt there's be a whole lot of difference in price per round loading the two. Would just loading a mild .357 in effect be the same thing as using .38?
I'll be loading for general range use/plinking. I'd like something fairly inexpensive but accurate. Not hunting or using it for CCW/HD so I don't care about penetration, expansion, etc. Won't be trying to wring every last possible FPS out of it. Haven't bought the gun yet but will probably end up with something like a GP100 or 686 with at least a 4" barrel - not a single action cowboy gun.