Giving "J-safety" the boot

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DirtyBrad

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Jun 13, 2005
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I have that goofy j-key safety on my 870 and would like to get rid of it. Do I need any parts other than the new safety to do so? I'm think I've seen new safeties on Brownells or Midway, but don't know if there's some spring or something that will leave me stuck halfway through. Thanks a lot.
 
From Midway USA,safety detent ball-product#227053,safety-#873374,safety spring-#112447.The spring that is in there now is shorter than the replacement.When you put in the new safety and drop the ball in,that spring is kinda hard to push down and capture at the same time without it popping out,hitting the floor and hauling ass.It may take a few times and it is easy to change but I spent a lot of time hunting the spring.If it pops out,try to listen where it hit the floor.Then again,it may just be my luck.You may get it first time.Each part was $2.99.Total $10.00 plus shipping.You need all three parts.
 
You sir, are the man. Thank you very much. If you ever need code written or bicycles repaired, you let me know.
 
Brad,

To avoid playing NASA with the safety detent spring:

Install new safety button
Place trigger plate assy in padded vise (unless you have three hands)
Install new (old style ball bearing) safety detent
Install new old style safety detent spring
Use a pin punch of the appropriate size to push down the safety detent spring into its hole and hold it just below the level of the detent pin hole
Start pushing the safety spring detent pin back into its hole, pointed end first, installing from right to left (often it helps to hold it in a small pair of Vise-grip pliers while doing this).
Push the point of the detent pin against the barrel of the pin punch and s l o w l y ease off on the pressure of the pin punch, allowing the point of the detent pin to ride up the pin punch as it is pushed out by the detent spring, until you feel the 'notch' that is the top of the spring- then push the detent pin in hard enough to trap the spring in its hole.

Lubricate the safety assembly lightly and function test the new parts, making sure to restrain the hammer before it falls. If everything works as it should, reinstall the trigger plate assy. into the receiver.

hth,

lpl/nc
 
Looks like we need a tie-breaker. Although, for only a couple of bucks, I don't mind getting all the parts and keeping the old ones as spares.
 
Lee,

Can't believe it took you so long :)

Thank you for the detailed description. I'll be saving this thread for sure. I'll order the parts tonight and let you guys know how it goes.

This is also maybe motivation for me to finally pick up a vise. I live in an apartment, but I saw some simple set-ups over on ar15.com that looked very good for my situation.

Thank you again.
 
I know that they suck but whats the main reason?

Is it because if its "locked" and you lose the key your kinda skrewed?

And is it true that it isnt considered "locked" by law with the j?
 
I never use it and I've heard of situations where it locks through normal manipulation in the field.

Also, I've run out of gun projects and need something to fiddle with :)

I'm not sure if there is a legal definition of locked. I guess maybe there must be so they can decide how negligent I was when my nephew takes my gun to school and blows away his classmates.

Even though handguns here in Maryland are required to have integral "locks", I'm guessing I'd still be in hot water in the above situation. In short, the answer is probably no.
 
The vice really isn't necessary. You can tap out the safety spring retaining pin with the trigger group lying on its side on a table.

Here is the procedure I followed:

Removed the safety spring retaining pin, which allowed the safety spring and safety spring detent to come out. Removed the old safety. The new safety was pretty tight, so I gave it a light coat of oil.

Replaced the safety spring detent and safety spring. Depressed the safety spring with a 1/8" punch and replaced the safety spring retaining pin. Done!
 
Oleg,

The trigger plates for 870s and 1100s/11-87s are very similar, and the safety assemblies are identical (to include a couple of the rifle designs too). The same procedure will work for the 20 ga. 1100, and if the shotgun is to be used as a HD gun, SHOULD be done IMHO.

lpl/nc
 
You might also consider a Scattergun Technologies Oversize Safety Remington 870, 1100 found at

Wilson Combat
or
Midway

It works well with the spring and plunger that come with the J-lock.
Note: this larger safety does not work with the Knoxx Spec Ops stock.
 
I guess I have three hands because I found it incredibly simple to replace. The only tool I used was a Glock pin punch. I never had to go spring hunting either. Just cover the hole on top (with a thumb) while you slide out the pin from the side. Like others have said, depress the spring with a punch and slide in the retaining pin to re-assemble.

It is true you can get away with only replacing the safety button, (leaving in the cylinder-shaped detent) but it doesnt feel nearly as good as the ball bearing detent/short spring. I replaced all three parts, its worth $6 to erase all trace of the J-Lock. I also used a fine detail brush and some matte black testors enamel model paint to blacken the colored dots on the trigger guard... it looks like the lock was never there. :)

I tried the Wilson Combat ($12) and Remington OEM ($3) with both detents (yes I changed it three times!) and preferred OEM (no J-lock of course!) with the ball bearing/short spring.... YMMV.

This is the single most worthwhile modification of a Remington shotgun. The next modification I am doing is an R3 recoil pad.

P.S. Keep your magazine tube clean! I also sanded the follower with 600 grit--its quite rough from the factory. I clean the tube every time I clean the barrel now.
 
Thanks for the helpful feedback, Waywatcher. I will order all of the parts.

It seems I've read that some cleaners will pull the color off of the safety position indicators of USP pistols. I wonder if that would be a better way to go for removing the original spots than painting over them.

Or maybe leaving them on serves as a warning reminder :)
 
Well thanks to the information posted in this thread, I also managed to replace the j-lock safety on my 870 with a standard, lock-less safety. My thanks to all who chimed in with this valuable information.

Weird thing though, when I got started and tapped out the retaining pin while keeping my finger on the hole on top, I turned over the trigger assembly and out came out a black metal piece that looks like a round dreidel or top. It is about 3 or 4 mm in height.

But no spring.

I was above a large, shallow bin I usually use when cleaning / stripping my guns so I am pretty sure the spring didn't just drop out and get lost, so I am wondering did my 870 just not have a safety spring or is this something exclusive to the j-lock safetys?

Either way I am even happier that I put the new safety in. Detent ball, spring and new safety went in just like they should and they work great.
 
The "dreidel" like object you describe is the J-Lock specific detent. Your gun should have had a safety spring in it. How did the safety function before you took it apart? Did it click back and forth into the two positions or did it just sort-of move side to side?

I'm happy to hear you got it done easy! :)
 
Thanks for the help Waywatcher, I am glad to hear that the part is just the J-lock detent, and not another part I knocked out accidentally.

Here is a picture of the part:

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It is really strange that I did not find a spring in the channel with this part. I removed the pin with my thumb over the hole, then turned the trigger assembly upside down over a small bin just so I would not lose any parts.

The J-lock safety always worked fine.

Either way I want to thank you for putting my mind at ease. This is my H.D. shotgun and I did not enjoy the thought that it may be missing a part.
 
Got the parts today and made the swap. Thank you very much for all the help.

Everything went in very easy. The pin popped right out and the spring and detent were in there pretty snug, actually. Everything feels great now, better than with the j-safety.

Thanks again.
 
Another "J-safety" gone! Like Waywatcher, I tackled it without use of a vice. No problems.

Wolf_from_WV: thanks for the link to the pics.
 
another one bites the dust. Took me 5 minutes to yank my j-hook out, and all i needed were some small allen wrenches (in place of a punch) and a flathead screw driver.
 
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