Glock 20 question

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My G20 as well as my brothers are exactly as they came out of the box. Both have been 100% reliable with light target loads all the way up to Double Tap's hottest loads. I wouldn't touch a thing.
 
I only know two people who actually shoot G20s.
One leaves his alone except to polish up the trigger. It does fine.
One tinkers with his all the time. He usually carries something else he can count on.
 
Does the G20 10mm work well with the stock spring,
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Glock Perfection being what it is?
If the stock spring didn't work, don't you think they would have changed it to something that did work by now?

No major firearms manufacture is going to sell guns with springs that don't fit the design requirements of the gun if they want to keep selling those guns very long.

rc
 
Jim Watson said:
I only know two people who actually shoot G20s.
One leaves his alone except to polish up the trigger. It does fine.
One tinkers with his all the time. He usually carries something else he can count on.
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What does it do to be untrustworthy ?
 
rcmodel said:
Glock Perfection being what it is?
If the stock spring didn't work, don't you think they would have changed it to something that did work by now?

No major firearms manufacture is going to sell guns with springs that don't fit the design requirements of the gun if they want to keep selling those guns very long.

rc
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I've read that a lot of Glock 10mm shooters go to a heavier spring for some reason.
 
The stock one will work fine. If somebody is loading the 10mm extra heavy, it's usually a good idea to "up" the spring weight. I do have a 22lb spring for my G20, but rarely use it.
 
I don't mean to hijack but I've been searching for an answer about the glock 10mm but not having any luck. I really want to get a glock real soon and I was thinking about a .40 s&w caliber but I read somewhere that you can get the 10mm version then just buy a 9mm barrel and a .40 barrel and that's all I would need to be able to shoot the other calibers?? Where can I read more about this and are there any disadvantages to doing this?
 
jkulysses said:
I don't mean to hijack but I've been searching for an answer about the glock 10mm but not having any luck. I really want to get a glock real soon and I was thinking about a .40 s&w caliber but I read somewhere that you can get the 10mm version then just buy a 9mm barrel and a .40 barrel and that's all I would need to be able to shoot the other calibers?? Where can I read more about this and are there any disadvantages to doing this?
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With the Glock 20 you can shoot 10mm, .40 Short & Weak, .357 Sig, and 9x25 Dillon, and they all use the same magazines.

Four calibers in one pistol, very versatile.
 
Haifisch, it appears that you already know about the 9x25 Dillon. That would be the only reason that I change springs in my G20.
 
jkulysses

If your looking to shoot 9mm, then the G20 would not be for you. All the aforementioned conversion calibers are based on the same parent case: 10mm, whether it is shortened (.40 S&W), necked down( 9x25 dillon), or shortened and necked down(.357 sig). They will all feed from the 10mm magazine. I dont know that glock makes a 9mm magazine that fill fit in the G20.
 
I shoot stock springs in my 20 w/ dbl tap and have not issue. I have shot maybe 300 rounds of dbl tap and 1000's of rounds of the other stuff with no issues. I love my 20, it might be my favorite Glock.
 
I use a Wolff rod and 22lb spring in my G20. Factory is 17 IIRC.
Why, well here are some factory numbers of common 10mm rds -

Remington UMC - 180 gr, 1150 fps & 529 ft/lbs
PMC Bronze - 200 gr, 1050 & 490
Federal AE - 180 gr, 1030 & 425
Blazer - 200 gr, 1050 & 490

Now Double Tap -
180 gr, 1350 & 728
200 gr, 1300 & 750

I also run Buffalo Bore and my own "hot" handloads as well as DT.
I just think it could help from battering over time to move up to a 20lb+ recoil spring.
YMMV
 
Mine has had zero malfunctions with the stock spring, and I have put many different types of ammo through it. Neither the hot nor the stuff that feels like a .40 has had any issues.

They say you should get the Wolff spring if you shoot hot ammo, but mine has digested plenty of Double Tap with no issues.
 
one reason to up your spring weight in a G20 is that when shooting hot loads the brass flys really far, kind of embarassing to shower the guy next to you with hot brass at an indoor range. I have never had any problems with the stock spring, and about 90% of the rounds through the gun have been the hot stuff.

maybe you pick up a few more FPS too????
 
My Glock 20 worked fine with the stock spring, it also worked fine with a 20# recoil spring on a tungsten guide rod.
The .40s&w conversion also worked with both springs.
The guy who runs Doubletap ammo is a big believer in heavy springs for hot ammo in the G-20.
He probably shoots more 10mm ammo than the rest of us combined.
 
No, gun makers have no idea what kind of springs to put in their guns so they function reliably. Just put any old thing in there
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The variance of 10mm loads makes the cartridge a different bird though.

This is from the Wolff website -

"Factory recoil spring ratings above are for current production models with captive factory recoil spring systems which are silver/gray in color. Previous captive factory recoil assemblies for the 17, 17L, 20, 21 & 22 had recoil springs rated at 16 pounds. Earlier non-captive models of the 17, 17L and 19 had factory recoil springs rated at 19 pounds. Not for use in Generation 4 pistols."

So not even Glock seems to sure on what springs to stick with.
 
Haven't had any problems whatsoever with the stock spring. If you need to replace it after 5k rounds it's a cheap part. Of course 5k rounds of 10mm is NOT cheap.
 
If you shoot hotter than factory loads with stock springs on Glocks (most auto pistols) and think you are not banging metal to metal you are probably incorrect. If you think about it you want the slide stopping before it bottoms out. In my experience many auto pistols have too light of a spring. The manufacturers want the slide to not be to hard to pull back for those of us that may not have 'strong hands'.
 
Casefull said:
If you shoot hotter than factory loads with stock springs on Glocks (most auto pistols) and think you are not banging metal to metal you are probably incorrect. If you think about it you want the slide stopping before it bottoms out. In my experience many auto pistols have too light of a spring. The manufacturers want the slide to not be to hard to pull back for those of us that may not have 'strong hands'.
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Ah, not really. You absolutely do want the slide 'bottoming out.' The slide velocity at the point of impact is the only factor that should be affected by spring change.

Were the slide not reaching the extent of it's travel, feeding problems would be commonplace. Inconsistent ammunition would cause the gun to fail every couple of rounds.
 
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