ljnowell
Member
I wouldnt reload for a glock either if I didnt know what I was doing. I think you need to rethink things, can promise it wasnt a glock problem that caused your KB.
Glock and Handloaded ammo
- Thread starter Keeperfaith
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I wouldnt reload for a glock either if I didnt know what I was doing. I think you need to rethink things, can promise it wasnt a glock problem that caused your KB.
Sure doesn't take an Einsteinian I.Q. to figure that one out, huh??
I must be a true genius, as I've loaded and fired over 300k of my reloads through my Glocks and have only blown up one. If there were a systemic problem in Glock's design that precluded the firing of reloads, you'd think I'd have found it by now.
oneounceload
member
You had a KB with an aftermarket barrel and poor reloads and you are blaming the gun? Agree with the others, perhaps reloading is not your thing - it isn't for everyone, and that's OK too
Some of the things I've read on this forum(others also often),just makes me wonder . No gun is really more prone to kabooms than any other,it has to do with who is doing the reloading and how they do it that causes the problems.:banghead::banghead:
If the round is within the caliber specs, the gun won't blow,simple as that.
If the round is within the caliber specs, the gun won't blow,simple as that.
I am with you in spirit, but this is really not true.
I have noticed that my Glock 27 unlocks much sooner than my FNX40. Hot loads that work just fine in my FNX40 don't necessarily work in my G27. An overcharge would be more likely to kb (the kind where the case head/web fails) in my G27 vs my FNX.
The FNX is actually pretty freakish for how long the breech stays locked. I bet Clark could make some interesting loads for it.
That said, I reload for Glocks and don't give it a second thought.
ljnowell
Member
You said it right there, an overcharge.
LiveLife
Member
Let me help count the ways:
1. You use mixed range brass with unknown reload history. Stretched case base that's thinned, fixed and polished look like any other case. And no. No amount of push-through resizing with FCD/G-Rx die somehow will make the thinned wall thicker again.
2. Let's say you happen to be using mixed ranged brass that's been reloaded multiple times with "hot" powder charges and fixed with FCD/G-Rx die then the shooter "left" the weakened brass for some unsuspecting brass hound to pick it up. Let's also say the digital scale used was off by .2-.3 gr and Titegroup happen to be used with what was thought to be .1 gr "headroom".
When the primer ignites the "now max+" powder charge that lined up an apparent weakened spot of the case base with the chamber portion that's less supported and a case failure/rupture occurs, it is definitely not Glock's fault but the blame lies with the reloader. If a fully supported aftermarket barrel with tighter chamber was used, case failure/rupture may/might have been prevented.
3. Let's say a double-charge occured due to improper reloading practice or distraction. In this case, not even moderate/slow burn rate powder would have prevented a KaBoom nor a fully supported thight chambered aftermarket barrel. It's just law of physics at play.
After shooting several hundred thousand 40S&W reloads through Glocks, I don't mind being called a chicken. I happen to like my hands just the way God made them and not missing chunks from them.
For me and mixed range brass with unknown reload history, it's mid-to-high range load data and W231/HP-38 or slower burn rate powders. I could take chances with max charges but I am afraid of that particular weakened case that might ruin my day, and that would make me very irritated.
If you want to continue my "lucky" streak, toss bulged cases that won't fully resize even on a second attempt rotated 90 degrees, use mid-to-high range load data with slower than W231/HP-38 burn rate powders and use fully supported barrels with lead loads that won't gunk up fast like Glock barrels (due to longer leade and smooth start of rifling).
It's OK to be a smart safe chicken.
1. You use mixed range brass with unknown reload history. Stretched case base that's thinned, fixed and polished look like any other case. And no. No amount of push-through resizing with FCD/G-Rx die somehow will make the thinned wall thicker again.
2. Let's say you happen to be using mixed ranged brass that's been reloaded multiple times with "hot" powder charges and fixed with FCD/G-Rx die then the shooter "left" the weakened brass for some unsuspecting brass hound to pick it up. Let's also say the digital scale used was off by .2-.3 gr and Titegroup happen to be used with what was thought to be .1 gr "headroom".
When the primer ignites the "now max+" powder charge that lined up an apparent weakened spot of the case base with the chamber portion that's less supported and a case failure/rupture occurs, it is definitely not Glock's fault but the blame lies with the reloader. If a fully supported aftermarket barrel with tighter chamber was used, case failure/rupture may/might have been prevented.
3. Let's say a double-charge occured due to improper reloading practice or distraction. In this case, not even moderate/slow burn rate powder would have prevented a KaBoom nor a fully supported thight chambered aftermarket barrel. It's just law of physics at play.
After shooting several hundred thousand 40S&W reloads through Glocks, I don't mind being called a chicken. I happen to like my hands just the way God made them and not missing chunks from them.
For me and mixed range brass with unknown reload history, it's mid-to-high range load data and W231/HP-38 or slower burn rate powders. I could take chances with max charges but I am afraid of that particular weakened case that might ruin my day, and that would make me very irritated.
If you want to continue my "lucky" streak, toss bulged cases that won't fully resize even on a second attempt rotated 90 degrees, use mid-to-high range load data with slower than W231/HP-38 burn rate powders and use fully supported barrels with lead loads that won't gunk up fast like Glock barrels (due to longer leade and smooth start of rifling).
It's OK to be a smart safe chicken.
Father reloads for his Glock 22 ( .40 S&W )
Brother reloads for his Glock 32C (.357 Sig, and yes, It's compensated )
So far, No issues with them so far. I tend to stay low-mid range data in it. I have once fire brass and range pick up, So Im a tad cautious when reloading for these Glocks.
Im also getting a Glock 29 ( 10mm ) and will be paying a lot of attention to detail with that.
Brother reloads for his Glock 32C (.357 Sig, and yes, It's compensated )
So far, No issues with them so far. I tend to stay low-mid range data in it. I have once fire brass and range pick up, So Im a tad cautious when reloading for these Glocks.
Im also getting a Glock 29 ( 10mm ) and will be paying a lot of attention to detail with that.
I would not say the reloads were poor quality in any way, I've been reloading for over 30 years and this was the first time I've ever had a problem. The brass ruptured but it couldn't be determined why as it was destroyed on firing.
During the reloading process I checked all brass for bulges and other defects. Did I miss one? I'll never know at this point but I won't reload for a GLOCK anymore. And I've reloaded autos for well over 25 years with no mishaps.
I have to ask what the circumstances were that you blew up a GLOCK. In 35 years I've never had a mishap till reloading for a GLOCK.Sure doesn't take an Einsteinian I.Q. to figure that one out, huh??
I must be a true genius, as I've loaded and fired over 300k of my reloads through my Glocks and have only blown up one. If there were a systemic problem in Glock's design that precluded the firing of reloads, you'd think I'd have found it by now.
Everyone assumes the brass is good. Not all brass is good. There will always be one or two that may let go. These are often caught during QC, but not always.
I occasionally find cases on the verge of exploding and I destroy them. Tumbling in stainless media makes this easy. The defect presents itself as a shiny mark or a line at the casehead that is more shiny than the rest of the case after sizing. Also, the sizing effort gives you clues. Some cases are alot harder to size. This should tell you to look at them real close.
Of course, it you are using a progressive devil machine, the above suggestions are difficult to implement.
oneounceload
member
I have had my Glock since Gen2's came out - I have never had an issue, but then I also have never felt the need to hot-rod my loads to max or beyond; and that is with mixed range brass.
You had one OPS that is not the gun's fault, yet now you will never reload for a Glock again? And when you have that OOPS with a 1911 or other gun are you then going to quit reloading altogether?
You had one OPS that is not the gun's fault, yet now you will never reload for a Glock again? And when you have that OOPS with a 1911 or other gun are you then going to quit reloading altogether?
Oneounceload, it's a tough call. I've made it pretty far in life and still have my eyesight and all appendages. I owe that to being careful.
I guess you could even get a bad load from the factory. The gunsmith that inspected my GLOCK after the kb told me he had also been seeing the same thing with Winchester factory ammo. Told me he had 2 within the last 2 months.
These weren't max loads but more of a high mid range. I do have the opinion that no issues with reloaded ammo are acceptable. Still bothers me even though this is my first issue in 35 years.
If it happened again with another gun would I quit reloading? I honestly don't know. Hope I never come to that point.
ljnowell
Member
So,again, you blew up a glock with AN AFTERMARKET barrel, and yet its the glocks fault that you blew it up? Come on, stop spreading false info to people here. There is no reason to convince a beginning reloader that its unsafe to reload for a glock because you screwed up.
ljnowell, where do you come off accusing me of spreading false info? And please tell me how I screwed up? I really want to hear that last part.
In no way did I say it was unsafe to reload a GLOCK, I said do so at your own risk. Take that with a grain of salt.
I'll just keep reading the all the messages on these forums, I have a feeling it's just a matter of time till I get a good chuckle out of you. You don't come across as a person that follows safe procedures.
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ljnowell
Member
You implied that it was not safe toreload for a glock, which is definately false info.
Its interesting you would get a chuckle out of me, considering I have NEVER blown up a gun, how bout you?
I gave my example, now you show how I "dont come across as a person who follows safe procedures?" Is it because I dont blame mistakes on a firearm?
Once again, I said do so at your own risk when it comes to reloading a GLOCK. Never said it was unsafe at all. You may go 10 years with no mishaps, or you may get a kb on the first reloaded round.You implied that it was not safe toreload for a glock, which is definately false info.
Its interesting you would get a chuckle out of me, considering I have NEVER blown up a gun, how bout you?
I gave my example, now you show how I "dont come across as a person who follows safe procedures?" Is it because I dont blame mistakes on a firearm?
But do some google searches and you'll see GLOCKS come up more then other makes.
I have never blown up a gun, in 35 years. When my GLOCK fired and the case ruptured the magazine flew out and powder and shrapnel blew through the area. The gun checked out fine from a gunsmith and I still shoot it, there is no damage. So, in reality I have not blown up a gun in 35 years of reloading.
Now, how long have you been reloading? Just by your attitude I get the impression you learn from mistakes, sometimes making the same mistake more then one time.
I've got at least one handgun from S&W, Browning, Springfield Armory, and Dan Wesson, and oh yea Glock. I don't hesitate to reload for any of them including the Glock 40 cal. I've shot less than 1,000 rounds in my 40 cal Glock but don't see any problems with the brass or barrel. I will continue to reload for my Glocks.
By the way, the 40 S&W (although not a magnum cartridge) is a high pressure round (31,000 psi) as handgun cartrides go. I do take a little more care in selection of brass and powder charge in the higher pressure rounds than say my 45 automatic that operates at < 21,000 psi.
By the way, the 40 S&W (although not a magnum cartridge) is a high pressure round (31,000 psi) as handgun cartrides go. I do take a little more care in selection of brass and powder charge in the higher pressure rounds than say my 45 automatic that operates at < 21,000 psi.
ljnowell
Member
Another stupid assumption. I have never had a reloading mishap, i have a very strict policy on how I reload and the safety associated with it. The fact that you are telling people to reload a glock at thier own risk and then calling me unsafe is comical.
Why are you intent on trying to make me look unsafe? It makes you look foolish. You are wrong about glocks, especially since you werent even using a glock barrel! Just admit it and move on instead of making yourself look dumb by trying to paint others as unsafe.
Back up your statement that I am unsfe and make multiple mistakes or else you are a liar and fool.
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