Glock Connector Question

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Jaywalker

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I just bought a Glock G19 Gen4 and didn't like the trigger. It started at nine or 10 pounds out of the box and has dropped to six-and-a-quarter pounds, but I'd prefer something a little lighter.

I understand the G19 comes with the standard 5.5# connector, so I ordered a 3.5# "-" connector. The replacement connector is indeed marked "-". The original one may be a dot ".". After "-" installation, the trigger pull is still at six- to seven-pounds - effectively "no change" from the original.

So, is this a bad installation, or is a part mis-marked, or is there some other issue?
 
The 3.5# connector isn't really 3.5 POUNDS, per se; it's lighter than the standard.

Whenever I've installed them, I've done a bit of polishing and such, and gotten a light, albeit mushier, trigger out of the deal.

Are you weighing the trigger with a scale? Because Glock triggers are, IMHO, especially hard to gauge by 'feel'; there are lots of variables that change, like take-up and break point, compared to more traditional hammer and sear designs.

Larry
 
I'm using an RCBS Trigger Pull Gauge. The new connector is no more mushy than the old one - it feels just about the same. I didn't do any polishing, either on the original or the replacement.
 
I'd double-check the installation, then. There are a number of variables that contribute to a Glock's trigger pull, try to isolate them and see if something is hanging somewhere.
 
Jaywalker I just bought a Glock G19 Gen4 and didn't like the trigger. It started at nine or 10 pounds out of the box and has dropped to six-and-a-quarter pounds, but I'd prefer something a little lighter.
Somethings not right.....what trigger spring is installed? (either a "coil" or a green or orange plastic NY trigger spring?

Is the box marked "5.5lb"?




I understand the G19 comes with the standard 5.5# connector, so I ordered a 3.5# "-" connector. The replacement connector is indeed marked "-". The original one may be a dot ".". After "-" installation, the trigger pull is still at six- to seven-pounds - effectively "no change" from the original.
Where did you order it?.........Glock Inc will not sell "-" connectors to the general public. If it's an aftermarket part you run this risk.




So, is this a bad installation, or is a part mis-marked, or is there some other issue?
Could be all three.............but 9lbs out of the box would have me returning the gun to Glock.
 
dogtown tom:
Somethings not right.....what trigger spring is installed? (either a "coil" or a green or orange plastic NY trigger spring?

Is the box marked "5.5lb"?

Where did you order it?.........Glock Inc will not sell "-" connectors to the general public. If it's an aftermarket part you run this risk.

So, is this a bad installation, or is a part mis-marked, or is there some other issue?
Could be all three.............but 9lbs out of the box would have me returning the gun to Glock.

Standard coil spring.
Box is marked "5.5".
Ordered an OEM from Glockparts, and I left a phone message with them this afternoon to verify status. I see now they're backordered.
I considered returning the firearm to Glock, but it was reliable and provided no brass-to-face, so I decided to try to work with it. It's since worn in to 6.25#, which isn't out of the ordinary, I understand, for Gen4.

DT Guy, I'm not sure what to check. It was disassembled and reassembled a second time and seems to dry-fire okay, but I haven't fired it since then.
 
I'm no Gloxpert, but look for the firing pin block sticking, friction in the trigger bar/trigger assembly and stuff like that. Try to isolate different parts of the trigger group and determine what each component is adding to the trigger pull.

As an example, if the trigger bar is somehow catching, it could be adding so much friction to the system that the resistance of the connector is overwhelmed by the resistance of the trigger bar-


Larry
 
I wouldn't thing trigger bar resistance would be causing it, as the trigger probably wouldn't reset if this were the case.
 
I replaced my Gen4 G19's trigger/trigger bar with a Gen3 smooth faced trigger/trigger bar. The trigger pull was lighter.

I remember reading somewhere that the Gen4 trigger bar's design was causing higher trigger pull weights with gen4 pistols. Hence the reason the "dot" connector came around. Not sure if its the truth, but the trigger bar swap did help.
 
I've put a lot of rounds through Glocks, but, perhaps fortunately, I've never fired or owned a Gen 4 Glock. I'd find 9# totally unreasonable.

I'd probably work on that Gen 4 until I got a trigger pull in the 4#-or-so range, which is about the heaviest of any of my Glocks' triggers.

I'd definitely polish all mating surfaces of the firing mechanism.

I've tried just about every brand of Glock connector, and the one that I like the least is the Glock factory connector. I'm using Lonewolf, Scherer, Ghost Ultimate, and Glockworx right now, in my assorted Glocks.

I would suggest the polishing, a different aftermarket connector, and perhaps a stronger trigger spring. I'd probably leave the striker spring @ stock strength.
 
Man, they 'fixed' the heck out of those Gen 4's, didn't they?


Larry
 
I don't want to grind off the centering bump, but I did ensure there was lubricant in the slide where it contacts - thanks for the reminder about the bump. I may make this grease to keep it in place.

There's also a half drop of oil where the connector and the trigger bar contact at the lobe-hook (whatever its nomenclature).

This, and the dry-firing appear to have helped a little - the pull is now 5-3/4#, a definite half-pound improvement. I think I'll try a competition coil spring for $5 from Glockparts - his description indicates it's good for another half-pound drop down to where it should have been in the beginning and a less mushy feel.

Thanks for the help, guys.

Edited to add: The 3.5# "-" connector is out and the 4.5#(?) "." connector is back in. I realized the trigger safety was unable to clear the trigger body and was non-functional. I'm leaving the "." connector in place until/unless the stronger trigger spring can be obtained.
 
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I don't want to grind off the centering bump, but I did ensure there was lubricant in the slide where it contacts - thanks for the reminder about the bump.

My G19 only needed a little smoothing on the bump. Strangely my G36 needed over half the bump removed before it started to smooth out. Go figure.

Man, they 'fixed' the heck out of those Gen 4's, didn't they?

For me its worth a little trouble for the new grip.

I've never fired or owned a Gen 4 Glock. I'd find 9# totally unreasonable.*

Sorry, I don't mean to be unreasonable. Have a great day.
 
Man, I've shot the snot outta more than a dozen Gen4s (and all my range/carry/SD/HD sidearms are now Glock Gen4s) and I've never had anything but a boringly consistent trigger pull or function. Every single Gen4 trigger that I've pulled has measured no more than seven pounds when NIB and settled at between five and six pounds within one range trip. YMMV.

One reason to maybe want to keep that trigger bar bump is if you plan on running an aftermarket connector. Many aftermarket connectors have less of an 'extension' where the trigger bar contacts the connector when compared to an OEM connector. Without that bump to center the trigger bar, the trigger bar can 'miss' the connector and slide right past it. I've seen enough 'failure to reset' on Glocks with aftermarket connectors to believe that the bump (as well as a mild outward bend to the connector) has some real value in terms of reliability.
 
Quote:
I've never fired or owned a Gen 4 Glock. I'd find 9# totally unreasonable.*
Sorry, I don't mean to be unreasonable. Have a great day.
__________________

I was agreeing with you. IF you like a 9# pull, then what's this thread about? ;)
 
Nine pounds at the beginning (maybe even 10)? I don't even like the six pounds I have now... It's funny - I'm perfectly happy with the revolver-like trigger pull of my Kahr K9, and it measures eight-and-a-half pounds.
 
Update for posterity - -

The 3.5# connector is in and working. The Glock customer service guy suggested that the original nine- or 10-pound trigger pull might have been a result of a faulty placement of the trigger spring in its forward detent. If it's not in the slot properly, the trigger mechanism torques to one side or the other.

It's now in the detent and the 3.5# connector does allow the trigger safety blade to set properly and safely.

Oddly, there's no real difference in the trigger pull weight per the gauge, but it might just mean it needs a little wear-in, so I'm back to dry-firing.
 
FWIW, the '-' trigger connector didn't lighten up my Glock triggers one little bit. If they did, then it was so small as to be barely noticeable.

I never found the Glock trigger to be objectionable, so I stopped twiddling with it.
 
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