Glock question

Status
Not open for further replies.
E

eastwood44mag

Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2005
Messages
1,027
Buddy of mine has a 17C, and he complains that he has to use hot and heavy loads in order to cycle the action, since the ported barrel siphons off so much of the oomph. He wants to get a non-ported barrel to eliminate the problem. I'm just thinking he could get a new lighter recoil spring, and save himself a lot of money. Is that correct, or does he need a new barrel?

Thanks.
 
If for range use, I would recommend getting a Wolff non-captured steel recoil rod (G17 uses Wolff stock# 50000) and Wolff's reduced recoil calibration spring pack (G17 uses Wolff stock# 13141, which includes a 12Lb, 14Lb and 15Lb recoil spring). The factory recoil spring weight that the G17 uses is 17Lb. Here is the link:

http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/GlockNF.html#GlockRCP

If the gun will be used for self defense/carry use, I would highly recommend getting a Glock stock factory non-compensated G17 barrel and using the stock 17Lb recoil spring. LWD sells G17 stock factory barrels for $119.95, if you look around you might find them a little cheaper:

http://www.lonewolfdist.com/products.asp?prod=4&curRecIdx=21
 
He must not be holding the gun right when he shoots it. The porting in the compensated Glocks will reduce velocity by 5% or less, depending on the load, and should not affect the function of the pistol. Any good quality, normal power 9mm load should function in the 17C just as well as in a non-ported gun. I know the term "limpwristing" is used for a lot of pistol malfs, but with the Glock having a polymer frame, that has a little more flex in it, I would suspect that a firm grip will have the pistol working just fine as it is, no need to swap barrels or springs.
 
+1 on what glocker1911 said. I would also have him have some other experienced shooter(s) shoot the G17C and see if the same results happen or not. If same results, then proceed with the lighter recoil springs. Of all the Glocks I have shot over the years, I have never gotten a chance to shoot a compensated model, so I don't have any experience when it comes to them.
 
I must just be really slow, because I don't understand how limp-wristing would affect the gun's cycling. Accuracy I can easily see, but not cycling. Can anyone explain that to me in very simple terms?

Thanks.
 
Eastwood44mag, as I understand it, the basic effect of "limp wristing" is this: Normally, the gun relies on the slide moving through it's complete range of motion to eject the spent casing, and on the return to battery, chamber a new round. To do so, the gun requires a firm, and essentially "rigid" platform on which to cycle--that is, the slide should move, and the frame should hold still (or nearly so--recoil does move the frame slightly).

However, if you hold the gun weakly or loosely, the entire gun moves too much Basically, the frame moves backwards along with the slide, and therefore the slide doesn't execute its full range of motion--this means that it doesn't fully eject the spent casing, and fails to pick up the next round.
 
just think of it like a hammer and a nail. When you hit a nail on the head with the hammer it always goes into the 2x4 better if the 2x4 can't flex with the blow. If it does flex the nail doesn't go in as deep.
 
I have a couple of different "C" models and they are just as boringly reliable as my standard ones. As already pointed out, more likely a grip problem or a recoil spring problem, although I can't see it being a recoil spring problem if he is running factory springs. Is he using factory loaded ammo or reloads?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top