Glock Reloads

[coloradokevin]

How do you guys feel about using reloaded ammunition in Glock pistols? I own three Glocks right now, and am planning to start handloading for some rifle/pistol calibers as soon as I scrape together the money to buy equipment. Two of my Glocks are in the 40S&W (the famous Kboom caliber), and the other is .45GAP.

Would you reload for any of these, given the unsupported chamber issue, or would you just use factory new ammo?


I'm definitely still the newbie when it comes to the handloading learning curve... I tried searching for this question on this site, and didn't really find anything specific (though I'm admittedly horrible with the search function).

Anyway, I've heard this subject debated elsewhere in the past, and had some personally questionable experiences myself (with handloads I bought from someone else, which didn't function correctly in my Glock 22). But, I've never heard the opinion of people who were actually experienced handloaders (just the hearsay opinions).

Thanks again for the help everyone!!!

 

[redneck2]

I reload for my G20. Use jacketed and you should be fine. I use slower powder (Blue Dot) to make some screamer loads and never show a sign of case bulge. I use a Lee FCD and they cycle fine.

 

[rcmodel]

I have been reloading for a Glock 23 .40 for about 12 years.
I even load lead bullets!

For a newbie reloader, stick with jacketed bullets and mid-level power and you should be perfectly fine.

If you just have to have smoke'n hot loads, buy factory stuff until you gain more reloading experiance.

rcmodel

 

[evan price]

I load lead for my Glock and shot thousands of lead reloads through my other Glocks.

As long as you are not doing anything crazy, no problem, Glock says no reloads (as does virtually every gun maker) to cover their behinds in case somebody blows up a gun.

 

[jmorris]

I have several Glocks that have had nothing except reloads through them. I load jacketed and plated though.

 

[coloradokevin]

Glad to hear this...

I know the manufacturer always says no reloads as a matter of CYA tactics.

But, if I reload I'd really like to be able to do so for my glocks! I don't know what the problem was with the reloads I purchased at the gun shop a few years ago (from the same guy who sold me the guns)... These loads on three occasions failed to cycle, and the casing was stuck in the chamber with enough force that I could barely manipulate the slide to eject it (I'm guessing bulged cases?).

Anyway, I haven't shot reloads since 1998 because of that... But I would obviously have more control over the situation if I did it myself!

As a related question, how many reloads can you typically get out of a .40S&W case intended for use in a Glock? I know results vary, but just trying to get a rough ballpark figure...

 

[Steve C]

Personally I wouldn't reload the .40 S&W or .45 acp due to the unsupported case issues from or for a Glock except with virgin cases and jacketed bullets but for the 9mm there's no problem.

I quit using lead in the 9mm with the polygonal barrel due to leading and less than acceptable accuracy. Lead works fine with conventional rifling and if you want to shoot it the buy an after market barrel with land and groove rifling.

 

[coyotehitman]

I have loaded lead, jacketed, and plated bullets in 9 and 40. I no longer load lead, just because I am aware that it may be unsafe now. On the 40, just inspect your brass carefully for signs of fatigue or bellying and keep the loads on the lighter side and you should be fine.

 

[glockgod]

Have had wonderful results with 147gr plated bullets. Start at the lowest powder charge and work your way up .1 or .2 grains at a time. Stop when you find a weight and bullet combo that cycles the gun 100%. I have never needed to load "hot" to get proper functioning. Reloading is a fun hobby and can save you some money too!

 

[evan price]

As to leading a polygonal rifled barrel- if you use bullets of sufficient hardness that are sized for that purpose and keep your loads reasonable you won't have any problems.

I shoot a 21 brinell hardness lead projo in Glocks at 1100 fps (9mm) sized to .3565 with no leading issues.

YMMV

 

[SDefender]

I load plated and jacketed for my G27 (.40) and G36 (.45) using the stock Glock barrels and aftermarket S/S; no issues here. During load development, I usually reserve high end to max+ loads for new to newish Starline brass. All of the hottest loads so far have been used in the stock barrels.

Out of the thousands OEM and handloads out of mine, I have had about 2, possibly 3 cases showing potential deformation due to the unsupported area. At this point I attribute it to weak brass.

And yes, Glock does not want to hear about handloads in their guns.

 

[JuryRig]

I reload for G17 (9mm) and G30 (45 ACP) using plated and jacketed bullets, and have had no problems. Never seen any bulges on the brass.

If you like to push the envelope and use max loads (or over), you may blow up your gun. Doesn't matter if it is a Glock or not.

 

[RustyFN]

My G17 has never seen factory ammo, it's the only Glock I own.
Rusty

 

[870]

Reloads for both the 17 & 35.

 

[v-max29]

ive always heard not to use lead bullets in glocks, so i priced jacketed bullets, primers and powder and i would only be saving around $1 per 100. so i sold my 9mm dies, and will continue buying factory loaded 9mm ammo. for my 44 mags on the other hand i can reload for around 7 or 8 cents per shot instead of 60+ cents per shot , so its well worth it in certian calibers but no 9mm reloads for me. Dennis

 

[Bringsteen]

Pick up a fully supported after-market barrel, such as one made by Lone Wolf. It will cost you about $100.00. Then buy a higher-power recoil spring. The higher-power recoil spring will insure that the case stays in battery (so it does not get extracted while the pressure is still high), and the after-market barrel will insure that the brass is fully supported. Then you can load your ammo right up to SAAMI specs (in .40 S&W it is 35,000 psi), and not have to worry about a catastrophic failure. You can still damage your gun by going over specs, but with a fully supported barrel and heavier recoil spring, you dramatically reduce the chance of a C.F.

 

[coloradokevin]

Pick up a fully supported after-market barrel, such as one made by Lone Wolf.

I had considered that idea when I started debating the merits of reloading for my Glock(s). Of course, I need to start reloading first!

I've also noticed that many of these barrels are marketed as "semi drop-in", and seem to imply some gun smithing work may be required. Have you found this to be true, or do they really just "drop in"?

 

[TimboKhan]

I don't know what the problem was with the reloads I purchased at the gun shop a few years ago (from the same guy who sold me the guns)... These loads on three occasions failed to cycle, and the casing was stuck in the chamber with enough force that I could barely manipulate the slide to eject it (I'm guessing bulged cases?).

As a rule, I won't shoot others reloads. They may be awesome, but like you found, you just didn't know what was going on.

The only time I have ever broken that rule is when I ran some truly gungy ammo down my P90, but I did so knowing that the gun was strong enough to handle just about anything I threw down it. Honestly, if it had been any other .45, I wouldn't have shot them.

 

[coloradokevin]

As a rule, I won't shoot others reloads. They may be awesome, but like you found, you just didn't know what was going on.

I completely agree. This was about ten years or so ago, and the experience definitely made me want to not try anyone else's reloads again!

I guess if I really knew someone, to the point of trusting them with my life, I might try it.

But, I'm sure not ever planning to pick up store-bought reloads again!

Live and learn.

 

[BackCountry]

I put between 4,000 - 8,000 rounds of hand loaded 10 mm auto rounds through my G20 every year. Never had a problem. Stock Barrel. I always inspect the brass and have had to toss some with cracks around the neck. Most of my brass has had over 40 reloadings and is still fine. I use 155 gr moly coated bullets that average 1150 FPS. I don't reload the brass from my hunting loads - 200 gr RNPN @ 1300 FPS, the brass flies so far that you usually can not find it.

 

[Clark]

I found the chambers support of the Glock 20 [10mm] and Glock 22 [40sw] to be terrible. The safety margin between SAAMI loads and case bulges [guppie belly] is almost non existent.

The case support for the Glock 19 [9mm] is typical, and 9mm case support is typically very good; .190" of chamber intrusion.
The safety margin is such that risk averse lawyered up corporations will sell +P+ factory ammo.

 

[jenrob]

I reload for a Mod22 40. I will load 2 maybe 3 times on each case then put it in my recycle box.

40S&W brass is so easy to get that I don't try to load more than that.

My wife has put several thousands of rounds (reloads) through this gun without any problems.

Most guns have an unsupported barrel it's just Glock is that Glock is even more so non-supported.

You fire enough of 45ACP through most 1911's and it will blow out the case. Been there done that.

I will put more loads on my 45 brass cause of the lower pressure and it does have more support but after the above mishap limit my reloads. After one case in the lot starts showing stress they all go, but then again I have several thousand 45ACP brass also.

 

[Ed_E]

I have an 18 month old G35 40 S&W. Reload for it with my own used brass and with new Starline. No problems whatsoever. I have looked for and measured for the infamous Glock bulge but cannot find any in my shot brass. I do not think loading 40 S&W for a Glock is any more demanding than loading for other calibers, which I also do.