Glocks and aftermarket metal rod concern

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An update. I received the Aerotech rods and the edges were indeed finished with no sharp edge. Unfortunately, they were thin and didn't fill the hole on the front end of the slide. It kind of dangled and I just didn't like it. In addition, it was on the long side and stuck out a bit in the front. Basically the dimensions just seemed sloppy.

So now I'm going to go ahead and smooth out the edge on the base of my Wolff and Harrt's rods with sand paper. Before I do, I just want to make sure I have this right...I just roll the edges on a flat piece of sand paper of increasing fineness? Or do I pinch the sand paper around the edges of the rod base as I twist the rod with my other hand? Is it a lot easier than I am making it out to be?

Thanks.
 
The Arotek rods I use are designed for the stock Glock flat wire springs - they also work with IMSI flat wire springs.

If what you got doesn't fit your gun call Arotek and see if they can get you the proper parts. I have spoken with them several times in the past and they have always been very helpful.

As to breaking the edges of the rod head:

I would start with 240 grit silicon carbide paper and then 600 grit. Auto body supply stores and most hardware stores have this type of paper. It appears black or dark gray in color. Do not try to use sand paper made for finishing wood.

The idea if you must do it by hand is to rotate the rod as you drag the edge of the head across the paper. The paper should lie flat on a smooth surface.

Chucking the rod in an electric drill preferably held in a vise and applying the paper to the edge as the rod spins works better.
 
Thanks DBR...I may call them. But what is wrong with sand paper made for finishing wood? I didn't even know they made a designation.

One interesting thing I came across is that although the gen 4's are having their fair share of problem, they are not encountering this specific one, judging by pictures. My guess is that the dual assembly rods flex somewhat at the joints of the two rods and thus lessens/eliminates tilting of the back portion of the rod assembly experienced by one-piece metal rods.
 
Well, I finally sanded my G20 Wolff rod, first with 320 and then 400 grit. That's as fine as I could find in the store, but it was good enough for sure. Anyway, I spent some time twisting the rod between two fingers over the paper while gradually changing the angle to give a rounded shape. It came out very subtle, but I am satisfied with the result. I tested it by rubbing the edge on some layers of paper towels and it did not scrape it like a sharp edge would. I looked at it with a loupe and it looked smooth, rounded and even. I then tested it over the area it would encounter in the frame and it rolled, rather than scraped.

So in the end, I am pretty happy with the results. One additional precaution I will do before shooting at the range is to put a little Weapons Shield oil (or maybe grease) in the frame area where the back of the rod rolls. It can't hurt.

Thanks for the advice. I will proceed to do my rods for my 23 next.
 
Metal Guide Rods

I've had one on my G35 for the last 7 years. I have probably about 50000 rounds through this guide rod. I bought it to dampen the muzzle rize and quicken shot to shot times. I haven't noticed any wear and tear whatsoever but I'm also using an aftermarket reduced recoil spring, trigger bar, connector, KKM barrel, etc... and it just keeps on shooting...
 
Racine, which rod and spring do you have? And which company is it that advocates reduced strength springs again? Was it Glockmeister?
 
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