Good deal on 4-screw M&P?

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John Wayne

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Found a 4-screw S&W M&P with 2" bbl. in a local shop for $329.

Gun is .38 SPL, has original rubber grips, round butt frame, long action, etc...no box/papers. It has also been reblued, but that rebluing job has also worn off and there is a fair amount of bare metal/light rust. Whoever did it also took half the S&W logo off when they polished the gun. Screws aren't stripped or anything so I don't think it's been "Bubba'd," but the finish is neithr attractive nor original.

I've been wanting a long action K frame for a while, and this one seems like it'd be a decent shooter. I just don't know how much that refinishing job hurts the value and my new edition Blue Book hasn't come in yet.

I know these are fairly common guns, but they seem to be going up in value. Most of the older long-action S&Ws I have seen are square butt as well so I don't know whether to pass on this particular gun.
 
has original rubber grips
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The original grips were diamond-centered walnut magnas.

I've been wanting a long action K frame for a while
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Ok, all the long-action models were five-screw. And mostly square butt. So something here isn't adding up, perhaps it's a later gun and not really a long action, or it's really a five screw and has possibly been altered - did you examine the grip frame carefully with the grips off? Might also explain the re-bluing if it is altered.

All in all, it sounds like a $200 gun to me, maybe a little less if the frame is altered. I think it's better to keep looking and find a nice one in better shape for more money.
 
Hi John Wayne,



Serial Number would sure help...as would some images if possible.


'Original' Hard Rubber, Round Butt S&W 'M&P' Snubbies are pretty rare...

Later Round Butt Model 10 Snubbies, originally having Walnut 'Magna' Stocks as Oro mentions, are somewhat rare, but not as rare as the pre-model-10 ones.


Some 'M&P' Revolvers or Model 10 were made into 'snubbies' of course, by either substituting Barrels, or, shortening the Barrel, so one has to look critically when evaluating one.

Being re-blued of course would detract or not be a 'plus' far as $ value goes...even if it may be totally cool otherwise for something to own and enjoy.
 
Sounds kind of high in price for it's condition. I'd probably pass on that one and keep looking. Take that $329 you would have spent for that one and add a little bit to get one in better condition.
 
I'm with Old Shooter, to much money for the condition. That price should get you into a nice long action M&P.

I picked up this 1938 M&P last year for $350 at a LGS.

4thchange01.jpg
 
Sorry, I do not have the serial number at the moment.

I was under the impression that rubber grips came stock on all the round butt models...they have the S&W logo and are in excellent condition. Could either be a reproduction or maybe the original owner never carried the gun with the factory grips.

The gun is a 2" snubbie from the factory, judging by the markings on the barrel (no words cut off or anything).

I may be incorrect in calling it a long action but it has a distinctively different pull than the 4 newer S&W revolvers I have owned, which I know to be short action. The hammer is the same as in the picture posted above.

Lockup seems decent, though it could be tighter for sure. Finish is probably 60% at best, even after being refinished. My interest in this gun is as a shooter so the finish doesn't bother me too much, but I don't want to overpay.

I'm sure I could find a nicer longer-barreled square-butt specimen at a better price, but like someone posted I haven't seen very many other 2" round butt pre-10 K frames. I have done business with this shop before and expect I could talk them down to $300 OTD since this gun is not likely to be desirable to collectors or to people looking for a new revolver.
 
You have to watch those gun shops. Sometimes they mark stuff wrong. I bought a S&W wheelgun from Bass Pro that was marked as a Pre M&P model of 1905, 4th change. Turns out it was a pre-war 38-44 Heavy Duty with the original Magna grips. So, you see how they screwed me.:evil:
 
Hi John Wayne,


Anyone can put Hard Rubber Grips onto any K Frame round Butt Revolver...including putting reproduction ones on.


Early Round Butt 'M&P's came with either checkered Walnut or Hard Rubber Stocks, and the earlier ones had the Walnut Stocks of a 'Round Top' kind and not the later 'Magna' shape style.


Right side of Revolver Frame, will be blank if very early.

If it says "Made in USA" only, it after 1921 ( I think ), or old, but not earliest or oldest.

If it has the four lines of info stamped, it is still maybe somewhat old, but, not especially old.

Is the front Sight a Half Round? Or a Ramp?


Serial Number is a good way of determining when made.


Snubbys are often at a premium, verses longer Barrel models, all else being equal.


On older ones, Serial Number will be found on the 'flat' area on the underside of the Barrel, where the Ejector Rod lays when at rest...as well as being found on the Butt, and, on the Cylinder face.


If function is 'good', and you like it, if nothing else, it is a good intro experience to be alerted now to older S&W 'M&P' Snubbys.

Original Blue, Post War, half round front Sight ones with somewhat worn if still 60 - 80 percent Blueing, can be had for that same dough with some patience.


If memory serves, Long Action Models would have no letter prefix, or, would have a V or VS prefix ( the latter having the 'Hammer Block' which began a little earlier during the late V prefix )...the then new short Action version would be C prefix in March of 1948, which prefix continued onto the first Model 10s.

Upper Side Plate Screw was deleted in 1955.
 
Smith & Weson didn't introduce the 2" barrel option on the .38 M&P 1905 Hand Ejector until 1933. At the time black hard-rubber stocks were standard on round butt models, with checkered walnut offered as an option. Not a whole lot were made between '33 and 1940 with either style of stocks, but a 2" revolver with a round butt and original rubber stocks is quite possible, and I wouldn't jump to any conclusion otherwise until the stocks were carefully removed to see if the revolver's serial number was scribed on one or both panels.

Most if not all of the collector's value was probably lost when it was refinished, but it could still be a good and practical shooter, and it should be carried with the hammer resting on an empty chamber.

Besides the butt and inside the stocks, the serial number should be stamped on the rear face of the cylinder and bottom of the barrel on the ejector rod flat. Posting that number would be a big help if additional information is desired.

I may be incorrect in calling it a long action but it has a distinctively different pull than the 4 newer S&W revolvers I have owned, which I know to be short action. The hammer is the same as in the picture posted above.
Click to expand...

Yes, all of the pre-war revolvers had the long-action, and the double-action is noticeable better.
 
All of the post-World War Two Military & Police revolvers that had the long action also had serial numbers with an "S" prefix. All of the C-series guns "should have" :uhoh: short actions. There were early short action guns that were also in the late "S" series. All of this should be clear as mud.
 
The gun has the 4th (top screw on the side plate) and simply says "Made in USA" on the right side of the gun. Judging by what's been posted in this thread, that puts the date of manufacture somewhere between 1933 and 1940. The (pawn) shop simply has it listed as "S&W .38 SPL."

Old Fuff, I'm guessing you said leave one chamber empty because all possible manufacture dates put this revolver before S&W implemented a hammer block safety?

I will try to go back by the gun shop and get a look at the front sight (I believe it was the half-moon style) and serial number. I wouldn't mind it being refinished so much if it still looked good, but unfortunately even the re-bluing job now looks like crap. Maybe the owner having it refinished is a sign that it was taken care of and not abused, though.
 
If this gun is so old it does not have the hammer block could it be retrofitted with one? Given its condition I don't think any alterations would hurt its value.
 
I suggested that you (or whoever) carry the hammer down on an empty chamber because I strongly suspect that it does not have the positive hammer block, although it likely does have a less-then-positive block.

It is possible to retrofit an older revolver to have the newer block, but it isn't cost effective. you would need a new sideplate, hammer, rebound slide and hand - as well as the safety itself. All this plus labor.

If the revolver is in good mechanical shape, with clean chambers and bore, there is no reason it wouldn't make a good shooter. The finish has nothing to do with performance. But the fact that a refinish is well worn, indicates that it has a lot of mileage on it - although it might have been carried much and shot little.

When buying a used gun most potential buyers put great stock in cosmetics - in other words, "how new does it look?" In this case the seller is looking for a high price on something that looks like a beater, even if it isn't one. Unless a larger, 75 + year-old .38 snubby is a hot item in your neck of the woods he's likely to sit on it for a long time. Given the way it looks, I think the true value is closer to $275 at best.
 
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Thanks to everyone who replied. This is a gun that has my interest, but not something I've gotta have. I'll probably let it sit in there a month or so...if it's sold, oh well but if not maybe the store will come down on the price more.
 
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