Good reloading scales?

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Davo

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What do you guys look for in a good reloading scale?
I just picked up a RCBS Reloading Scale Model 505 (got it for 15 bucks plus shipping and supposedly in great condition, goes for around 70 bucks at midway). Does anyone have any experience with this model? Can I expect it to last a lifetime? (I dont consider scales to be high wear items anyway)

While shopping on ebay, I came across these...
http://cgi.ebay.com/3875-GRAIN-SCAL...ryZ71119QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

There are lots of these digital scales, and all are inexpensive, which makes me cautious. Are these accurate, and repeatable? I can deal with less than optimal drability, as this would simply be a backup scale.
 
Well, the one that you posted from Ebay has a tolerance of +/- 1.0 Grns.

I don't think I would classify that as accurate enough for reloading.

I am looking for a digital to replace my Herters beam scale. I want something that is +/- 0.1 grn or one that is +/- 0.01 would be much nicer. I would also like one with a dust cover and Iwant it to come with check weights.

Unfortunatly the farther you move the decimal point the more expensive the scale.
 
I have a 505 scale. Been using it for almost 10 years now. It's still dead accurate, and looks brand new!

(And I've moved several times, so it's been packed up and banged around alot!)

And, that's an awesome price!
 
I've owned a 5-0-5 scale for 15 years now. As long as it's not damaged, you got a great deal. I think about updating to an electronic scale sometimes, but I only use it to set/verify adjustable powder measure settings. I'd change to an electronic model if I was sorting bullets or brass.
 
Excellent price for a quality scale. I have the exact same one and have had 0 problems so far.

Next step from a 5-0-5 would be an electronic scale. For that you will have to pay a good amount of dollars for a quality scale.
 
I use a hand-me-down RCBS Model 1010 and I love it. It is very accurate and quick and easy to level on just about any surface. I nearly died of shock when I saw how much they cost brand new. If I had to replace it, I would probably try the RCBS Model 505.
 
I'm still using the same Hornady beam balance that I started with many years ago. It is accurate to within one tenth grain, which suits my purposes. I do have a quality set of check weights (RCBS) that I use to calibrate the scale, and check it ever so often to make sure it's still on the mark. I am also in the habit of placing the scale in the exact same spot on my level work bench whenever I use it. You just can't wear out a beam balace scale.

My 2¢
 
Have been using the same Ohaus 10-10 for clsoe to 40 yrs. including the time it was stored in a damp basement while in the Military.
Also have a PACT for use when building tesst loads, etc. If am loading bulk pistol ammo on a progressive, never use the electronic, only check throw weight every x # of rounds as a fail-safe. Reason, almost all electronic scales need ca. 30 min. to warm up then can be quite sensitive to temp. changes and drafts, etc. These scales shouldn't really be on the same bench as your loading machine is on either. Using one in the basement of a previous house in the Winter was a cruel joke between the drafts and the forced air heat coming on, etc. More apt to use the PACT for sorting out components by weight when trying to wring the last bit of accuracy out of a particular gun, etc.
 
Davo;

That's a decent scale at a great price. There are a couple of things you want to check & do however.

The pivot points of the beam are a pair of knife-edged bars that ride in saddles. Inspect both the knife edges & the saddles they ride in. If you've got access to a 10X loupe, use it. You're looking for burrs & chips. Either can affect the scale, & not in a good way either.

Also, since you saved so much money on the scale, get the check weights. Handle them with tweezers & keep them in the padded container they should come in.

And, congratulations!

900F
 
FYI ... if you ever go to a scale that can actually measure to 0.01 grain accuracy, you will probably find that you need to cover it while taking a measurement as the slightest air currents in the room start to become measurable. When I was equipping a lab with measurement equipment I became enamored with some of the scales and thought "Wow ... now THIS would be cool to have on the reloading bench!" But my bubble burst when it dawned on me that the scale was always shown inside a glass box!" They may be accurate, but they aren't for high volume manufacturing. I've never worked in the pharmceuticals industry, but my guess is that they measure doses by volume and then verify their process on occasion with a high resolution scale ... but that's just a guess.

Saands
 
CB900F provides excellent information. If the knife edges and bearings are in good shape, the key to accuracy is calibrating the scale with known, accurate weights. If you don't want to lay out the $25 or so for a set of RCBS calibration weights, a buddy with a calibrated scale could prepare a set for you out of trimmed pieces of aluminum or copper, plastic medicine bottle caps, ect. :evil:

After you get this stuff, handle and store it very carefully to avoid damage...I use cut pieces of plastic tubing over my knife edges.
 
I understand the concept of check weights, but do I need to acually calibrate the scale? I did not know it needed to be zeroed out. I plan on weighing certain objects several times to ensure repeatability. Are there any other fuction tests I can do on the cheap?
 
Yes, you have to zero these scales out each time you use them, but it is very simple and requires no equiment other than the scale. The check weights are used to make sure that you don't have a systematic multiplier error (like what would result from the big weight on the balance losing some of its mass). I would look for an instruction manual (maybe RCBS has them online???).
Saands
 
I usually use the smaller check weights that come in ½grain, 1grain, 2grain, and 5grain pieces. Put a couple, for example, the 2gr and 1grain (3grain total) on the scale. Put the scale's big weight on zero and the small weight on 3. If the pointer isn't exactly on zero then adjust the little bolt on the end of the arm to make the pointer indicate zero. I do this several times, using different combinations of weights, to make sure the scale will be accurate at different parts of it's weight range. I don't worry about anything over 30grains - I don't usually weigh bullets or cases, only powder charges. If I was to weight heavier objects, I'd check the calibration with my set of heavy check weights (10grain, 20grain, etc). Oh, one other thing. I always handle my check weights with tweezers (or hemostat) to avoid getting oils from my hands on them - which over time - will affect their actual weight. Or at least that's what I've heard, sounds right to me. Hope this helps.
 
Davo

I have a Dillon Eliminator beam balance that is about the same as the 505. FYI it is within .1 gr of what a Lee scale says. I am beginning to believe that temp & humidity can effect its balance setting. I have to cool a room and dehumidify in the process, from about 90 to 76 degrees starting at about 60% humidity. This must be causing some changes in balance for me.

I also have to keep the scale in one place on the bench, and turn off my fan to use it too.

I recently tried an electronic scale with a max of 1500 gr which was unsatisfactory for the lightest 3.5 gr load weights I use for 9m/147/231, and a major pain to balance/setup. Placing heavy weights on & off and pushing buttons. It went back in the mail today.

Anyway, I am leading up to my new check wieghts, which are NOT heavy ones. Last night, I came up with a 3.5 & 1 grain pieces of card stock. The scale performed perfectly, and I was very pleased to have checks around the lighter weights I am using (& for free)! To improve that even more, I am making some tonight out of PLASTIC card stock which wont be affected by moisture. They will be long and narrow to make them easy to pick up too.
 
To make check weights for a scale with .1 grain accuracy you need to use a scale with at least .01 grain accuracy.
 
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I use a PACT electronic scale - the one that plugs into the wall. It's probably the best tool I've bought in years.
 
"...avoid getting oils from my hands on them - which over time"

This is a tip I should be following!!!


What a bunch of Crap! :D

Even the 35 yr. old Ohaus 10-10 beam scale I love {and use along with a PACT} sits and flutters with a fan on most anwhere in the room! :banghead: Can't truely complain as it's just as accurate as when new!
 
I also have one of those 30+ year old, ugly brown, Ohaus 10-10 scales. But you'll not find a better scale out there.

One scale that I have seen on the auctions that's often over looked because they're out of production and therefore usually go for less than what they're worth is the older RCBS 5-10 scale.
It's the base of the 5-0-5 scale but it has the better beam and rotating counterweight of the 10-10 scale.

My very first scale was a 5-10 and they are just as accurate as the 10-10.
 
Cheap and sleazy check weight:

Calibrate your scale.

Weigh a styrofoam peanut.

Put it in a little plastic box.

Write the weight on the box.

Then, every so often, check the scale. If it weighs different, something is wrong.

They're large enough to pick up easy too.
 
I bought an electronic scale from Cabela's. It's a piece of crap. I think that I paid something like $60.00. I think that it's the 1500 series. It keeps reading at 6.75 grains. I just sent it back. I've always used the 5-0-5 scale and have never had problems with it--I just assumed that an electronic scale would be even more accurate--boy was I wrong. Electronic technology is not always the best.
 
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