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Good scope for Marlin Model 60 stainless?

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by Dryft, Mar 25, 2013.

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  1. Dryft

    Dryft Member

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    Hey y'all,

    I'd like to put a better scope on this rifle than the shoddy 4x it came with - what are your recommendations?

    I'd likely be shooting it out to a hundred yards, would appreciate a variable zoom, and having it in silver to match would be a bonus.

    Honestly? It's not an expensive gun, but does shoot well, and I'd like to keep the cost of glass under a hundred bucks including rings.

    Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
     
  2. Arkansas Paul

    Arkansas Paul Member

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    Yep. That's every Marlin 60 I've ever heard of. Great little guns for the money.
    I have a Nikon 4x32 on mine. It's still a fixed 4x but by no means shoddy. It's not silver either. I wouldn't worry about that. You want the best scope you can get for the money. It coming in silver just makes the price go up with no change in performance.
    Here's what I would go with.

    http://www.opticsplanet.com/nikon-prostaff-4x32-rimfire-scope-matte-nikoplex.html
     
  3. osteodoc08

    osteodoc08 Member

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    If you're gonna pony up the $ for a variable power, I highly suggest you get one with an adjustable objective. What's your budget and primary objective.
     
  4. osteodoc08

    osteodoc08 Member

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    Just saw your under $100 budget. Really, you're either gonna be stuck with something made in China or a used "branded" scope (assuming an adjustable objective and variable powered scope) Personally I've always looked to weaver for a good quality "inexpensive" scope. I have a Wally World center point on one of my 10/22's. It works, but if it ever breaks, it's going in the trash.
     
  5. frankenstein406

    frankenstein406 Member

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    gander had bushnell banner 3x9x40 with flip cap covers for $94?
     
  6. thralldad

    thralldad Member

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    BSA Sweet 22. Don't think it comes in silver though!
     
  7. almherdfan

    almherdfan Member

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    I've got a Center Point 3x9 on my 10/22 that's been pretty good for about $69. Not as good as the Nikons, but better the most of the other cheaper scopes I've used.
     
  8. Sav .250

    Sav .250 Member

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    Good to Natchez Shooters Supplies site . They have every kind of scope you can think of.

    Opinoins are fine but you are the one that needs to decide.
     
  9. Furncliff

    Furncliff Member

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    I've switched scopes a lot on my M60. Right now I have a Leupold M8 in 4X that I found in a pawn shop for $125. I've used a couple of the Centerpoint scopes and had good results with them. They offer a 4-16X with AO that would satisfy your requirements, it comes with mounts and has lighted reticle. Try one these and start saving a few bucks here and there for a scope with better glass. I think the Marlin is worth it.

    My 60 with a Centerpoint. A little big for the rifle, but otherwise a good value.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2013
  10. saenzrich

    saenzrich Member

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  11. courtgreene

    courtgreene Member

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    a bushnell 3-9x40 came with my range finder, so I tried it out and it works great on my marlin 60. It's not too big. Not too heavy. and they aren't very expensive. I think it's called trophy something or another.
     
  12. jstein650

    jstein650 Member

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    I have found that the rings are often more of a problem than the scope on a narrow grooved .22 . A decent scope notwithstanding, a set of split rings is the only way I will go anymore. The 'grab - claw' screw down rings can be a crapshoot. I've had more than one rifle in which the scope axis would always be somewhat offset from the bore. Center split rings will at least ensure the sight axis is pretty close to the bore axis. I have had to flat sand the edges to sharpen them a bit to make sure they will grab the grooves, as sometimes they are too rounded off to grab into the tiny grooves on a .22 like the Marlin.
    Just something to consider if you haven't already.
     
  13. Cee Zee

    Cee Zee member

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    The rule of thumb I learned a long time ago is that a person should spend the same amount of money on glass as they did the rifle. Some people believe you should spend double the amount on glass that you do the rifle. That one is fairly new to me and I think it may be a bit extreme. But scopes are generally forever while rifles can come and go. If you buy a really good scope you will never have a good reason to get rid of it unless it breaks and that doesn't happen that often with a really good scope.

    My stainless 60 has a Nikon ProStaff on it. It's a 3-9X40. Yeah I know that's a lot less than a 60SS costs but it is about the same as a standard 60 costs. So I always figured it was a good match for the Marlin. I do wish it had AO but it hasn't been much of a problem really. Supposedly a 9X scope won't have a big parallax problem depending on where the scope is designed to be parallax free. For most scopes that's 100 yards. For many rimfire scopes it's 50 yards. But for the Nikon I mentioned it's 100 yards. So in reality the ONLY distance there will be zero need for AO adjustment is 100 yards exactly.

    The thing is there isn't a lot of variation on a scope without AO at distances up to 100 yards. But the real skinny on this issue is that most AO issues on rimfire rifles can be dealt with by consistent eye placement and alignment with the scope. It's a lot tougher than it sounds. But unless you can do that and really even if you can do it you will never be as good of a shooter as your rifle unless you master parallax in some way. The way I do it by good old fashioned Kentucky windage. Or I use AO and I practice with it until I can make it work exactly right. That is certainly the best option but I've been able to make scopes work without it probably because I grew up without AO and if you wanted to shoot well you learned to deal with the problems with experience and KY windage. That's the one thing that can make you a decent shooter no matter what but you can be a better shooter with AO.

    So the rub is that you really need AO even on rimfire rifles shooting under 100 yards and with a scope that is 9X or less. It will make you better but it's still possible to shoot fairly well without it. Just don't expect to shoot .1" groups at 100 yards or anything. :D

    Again I've done OK with my Nikon scope. You may want a scope with AO though. But glass quality does matter. Light gathering does matter. You pays your money and you lives with your choice basically. There are good choices with and without AO. You generally get better glass for your money without AO. If you have to pay for AO you have to lose something else somewhere. That's the long and short of it but it's not set in stone or anything. Good compromises do exist.

    The bottom line. Listen to the reviews, sift through the hype, look through scopes when you can and find out how bad AO is with them. You'll need to learn how. Basically it's a matter of moving your head and checking to see if the crosshair moves.

    Because this issue is about as clear as mud there is no really good answer to your question. There are only suggestions and reports. Science doesn't do this justice unless you have a PhD in light physics. You pays your money and you takes your chances friend. Good luck. Again I've done well with my Nikon or at least I think so. But what do I know? :D
     
  14. jstein650

    jstein650 Member

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    Cee Zee: But what do I know?

    HA! I think you said a LOT there!
     
  15. Cee Zee

    Cee Zee member

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    Well you didn't say much. If I'm wrong about something prove it. It's pretty easy to take pot shots without even saying what's wrong.
     
  16. Dryft

    Dryft Member

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    Cee Zee - I don't think there's a need to get defensive here. The way I read that is you DID say a lot - and it was very useful.

    Thanks for all of the information folks! Obviously the more money you spend on optics, the better they are, but sometimes you just want to put a reasonably priced scope on a gun and go shoot it.
     
  17. aka108

    aka108 Member

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    Forget what you have read above. Put "Clearidge Optics" in you search engine. They make beautiful 22 rf specific scopes in 3x9 with AO. 100% Japanese built, no 3rd world or Chinese stuff.
     
  18. jstein650

    jstein650 Member

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    I was being genuine. I meant it in deference, appreciating the bit of self deprecation. I can see how it may have sounded snarky. (the trouble with internet communication)
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2013
  19. zdc1775

    zdc1775 Member

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  20. StrutStopper

    StrutStopper Member

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    Get a Mueller APV 4.5-14x40 in silver. You won't regret it and it won't break the bank. I've got a Sweet .22 on my Marlin 60 and I love it, but it doesn't come in silver. They are both AO scopes. I've got a Mueller APV on my CZ, it's a great scope too for a rimfire rifle.
     
  21. saenzrich

    saenzrich Member

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    Some folks are a little abrasive on this site...but back to the op...the simmons I mentioned is a decent scope for price silver scope and silver rings...I also have a Mueller apv which they sell in silver with an AO but that is about 130 delivered...this is also a quality scope...but is a bit above your 100 dollar mark...FYI for some good folk and also helpful input you ought to check out Rimfirecentral...really good forum specifically related to 22lr.
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2013
  22. Cee Zee

    Cee Zee member

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    OK Great. Sorry for the defensive response but there are lots of folks looking for trouble as you probably know. It is a problem that is hard to deal with on the net. Without the visual cues we all grew up noticing it's often hard to get the other person's tone correct. Sorry about that.

    Scopes are a complicated subject anyway. There are things that are just hard to describe in words. That's where the picture is worth 1000 words thing came from. Trying to describe things you see is sometimes tough. It can make a huge difference in a person's accuracy though. It's well worth the time to learn how parallax works because it can definitely improve your accuracy. It's simple enough to describe the problem. If you look through a scope and notice where the reticle is aimed then move your head without moving the rifle and notice the reticle is pointed at something else then it's pretty clear there is a big problem. And that is what happens. What is tough is describing how to fix the problem. There are several variables involved and some pretty heady physics too. People that think you can just pick up a popular scope without understanding these issues and then shoot extremely well are likely going to learn pretty quick it isn't that easy. Keeping your head in the same location is a good fix but that can be tougher than it sounds particularly if you're shooting at something higher or lower than you are. Here I go again with some of that long list of variables. I strongly suggest learning about parallax and how AO can fix it and how to fix it other ways. I know it made a huge difference in my accuracy when I started paying more attention to the issues.
     
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