Got a spyderco sharpmaker...any advice?

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Yo Mama

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After looking at the reviews which were mostly good on the sharpmaker I bought one. I admit I have NO experience sharpening a knife, and felt I needed to learn. I used this sharpmaker now on 2 knifes and I wanted to get your advise on best use of this product.

I am learing, and on one knife I think I made it duller! I put it through the steps another 2 times, and now it's good and sharp, but just not perfect. I'm guessing with a bit more practice I'll have it, but we'll see!

SO....give me your tips!
 
I wanted to get your advise on best use of this product

uh... sell it. sorry, i know that's not what you're looking for, but i have to be honest. i have a Lansky and a Sharpmaker, i'll probably have a EdgePro Apex before too long. i am quite unimpressed with the SM and am hoping my buddy still plans on buying it (the guy on HERE backed out).
 
I've had a Sharpmaker for a few years, and have never had any luck with it. Most people swear by them, so I'm willing to accept the fact that it's probably my technique...
 
Just experiment on a knife you really don't care for that much.


I have used a Sharpmaker for years now, and love them. The majority of people who use them love them. But every once in awhile you will get people (like above :)) who have had no luck with them.
 
I had been a bench stone kind of guy for ages, and still use one on occassion, but a friend talked me into the Spiderco Sticks.

The secret is to hold the knife straight up and down with no tilt and pull it towards you as you press down.

If I have a really nasty edge or a very hard edge I sometimes reshape the edge with a fine file first before setting up the ceramic sticks.

ALWAYS use the wire wrist guards.

ALways use the grey/black sticks first and finish with the white. DOn't use the fish hook grooved face of the grey/black sticks on a blade.

I will say that resharpening single edge razors is more trouble than it is worth, but fun to do just to mess with folks. :)

I use Bon Amee non scratch cleaner on the sticks when the steel begins to cover the faces of the sticks

One of my best buddies liked knives but simply could not sharpen a knife. He bought just about every sharpening aid you can think of that was available through the 1980's (died in 91 of the big C). It used to urk him that I made every one of them work and his best bet was to just hand me the knife and watch me sharpen it. The day he watched me sharpen an Old Grandpa pocket knife on an old red brick I found in the yard and finish it on the bottom of the toilet tank lid he decided that obviously knife sharpening was magic and simply gave up even trying.

I even tried standing behind him and guiding his hands so he could feel the importance of a rock steady angle and a smooth draw. He just didn't get it.

I always thought it odd tht he could not have a steady hand at sharpening yet had no difficulty striking a strike anywhere match at 50 to 75 feet frome the prone, unsuported, every time with a decent .22lr rifle and in sitting or kneeling most of the time.

Different folks different skills. That said I found in Cub Scouts that sharpening knives and making them work better was fun and rewarding. Then my Grand PaPa noticed and I got taught to use a stone by a working butcher and found my self sharping numerous Chicago Cutlery and old Hickory type butcher knives and fileting knives and Mom's and both Granmpm's kitchen knives and, well you get the picture.

Check out some yard sales and buy some old used butcher knives and sharpen away. FOlks don't just pick up a bow and drop shots in the gold all day on their first day, week or month, but everyone seems to expect to buy a sharpening system that will turn out a perfect edge on the first try. Once you get the hang of it folks will be asking you to "touch up" their blades. WHile overseas withthe army I bought a two sided synthetic stone tha paid for itself within two months and provided me with the occassional "free" candy bar, beer or pocket change for the next two years. Hey I touched up bayonets and e-tools and the occassional camp axe off a vehicle for free (also had a nice file I picked up), but personally owned folders and the occassional sheath knife were not platoon equipment so I felt no shame in being offered and taking exchange of goods for services to individuals out side my fire team.

Have fun with the spyderco gear.

-kBob
 
Did you follow the instructions which came with it?

I bought one last year and like it quite a bit. I am able to get my knives extremely sharp with it.

Also, it's possible that your knife has a different edge angle than what the Sharpmaker is designed to work with. If so, you'll need to reprofile the edge to work with the Sharpmaker. The medium and fine rods which come with the Sharpmaker aren't coarse enough for major edge reprofiling. For that, you'll need to pick up coarse rods, like these.
 
Thanks for all the input so far. Yes I watched the dvd, and the instruction manual. I think it may be the knife I'm trying (Smith Swat 2) that just doesn't like the 40 degree angle.

I'm scared to get the lansky as it looks like you need to know a bit more on knife sharpening to use it. What I mean is that the sharpmaker is easy, you count to 26 or whatever, but the lansky looks like you do both sides but with a different number of passes?

I have 90 days to try this sharpmaker and can return if I want.
 
You should be fine if you follow the instructions. I've used numerous sharpening systems and most of the "V-sticks" systems work fine as long as you're matching the angles to the bevel of the knife. Find the right angle, stroke one side carefully maintaining the angle, stop every few strokes feeling for a wire edge on the opposite side of the blade. Once the wire edge forms switch sides and repeat then strop the wire edge off.

Look a the sharpening FAQ at the top of the forum. The key to sharpening with any system is maintaining the angle of the blade and the stone at the angle of the edge on the blade and stopping when the wire edge forms along the whole of one side. Then repeat on the other side. All a V-stick system does is try to help you maintain the angle of the blade to the "stone" easier. The rest is up to you.
 
The steel your knife is made with counts, too. S&W knife quality may have improved, but I don't own any. The last time I checked them out, S&W knives weren't in the same universe as S&W revolvers, quality-wise.

You might consider buying a cheap high-carbon knife to practice on.
 
I'm scared to get the lansky as it looks like you need to know a bit more on knife sharpening to use it. What I mean is that the sharpmaker is easy, you count to 26 or whatever, but the lansky looks like you do both sides but with a different number of passes?

the Lansky (imho) rules out human error, even more so that the SM. not that that was my problem. my problem with the SM is - it is NOT a complete kit. the coarsest stones included do not cut nearly enough to reprofile an edge that isn't already 40* and even worse, those are your two choices 40* and 30*

with a Lansky, YOU decide what angle is appropriate, based on your intended use, then take the BLACK stone and reprofile that mofo :D u use the same amount of strokes on each side, just make one of two backwards passes on the last side that has a "bur" and you're good to go.

the downside to a Lansky (aka my reason for needing a Apex) it str8 up SUCKS for blades longer than 4.5" if you do not move the clamp, you will booger your edge like you can't imagine. but for single edged knives under 5", a Lansky is the way to go. simple and effective.
 
I'd recommend the diamond sticks for reprofiling, which is what you have to do if the knife you're working on doesn't have the same angled bevel. The S&W may have a 35 degree edge or something different than 30 or 40 so then you're going to have to make it "conform" to the SM.
 
I'm seeing that a 40 degree only angle is the biggest disadvantage of the sharpmaker.

I just need some input on technique to ensure on the lansky an even edge as I'm envisioning that you put pressure going down the blade in circle motions resulting in an uneven edge?
 
If you color the edge with a sharpie and make a couple of passes on each side you will be able to tell if you need to do any reprofiling.One thing to keep in mind is to finish the stroke with the tip of the blade still on the flat of the stone otherwise you end up with a rounded instead of a pointy tip profile.
 
sounds like you got the hang of the Sm, keep on practicing
.

I went from SM to lansky to freehand

Have fun and learn. Kbob seems to have given all the advice I would have, if I had got here first:)
 
I'm seeing that a 40 degree only angle is the biggest disadvantage of the sharpmaker.

I just need some input on technique to ensure on the lansky an even edge as I'm envisioning that you put pressure going down the blade in circle motions resulting in an uneven edge?

no, you don't use circle motion, with the Lansky. basically, you push the stone against the edge. you slide the entire length of the stone, whilst (love that word) moving a small way up the blade. so, you'll make a few "shk, shk, shk" as you work from the base of the edge to the point. make sense? honestly, i really think you're reading way too much into the Lansky. it's a very simple system to use. it does not have anything protecting your hand from the edge, though. other than that, it's really easy enough to train the children on. when my daughter gets a little older, she'll be responsible for keeping my knife sharp :D

with the Lansky, you make a BEAUTIFUL perfectly even edges that will probably have you pulling your knife out just to say, "check this out"

(realistically) the ONLY way you can screw up an edge, with the Lansky, is to try to sharpen a long blade - as the contact point (between the blade and stone) get further away from the clamp, the angle starts to change and you can end up with an edge that is thin and even 3/4 of the way up the blade, BUT then gets REALLY wide. this sux :(

sharpeners are like holster. most of us have a few, some get used, some don't and eventually we figure out which one fits us best. my point is - the Lansky is cheap enough to ADD to your tool box, you can't have too many sharpeners AND even if you find you still prefer the SM, i do not believe you will regret buying a Lansky.
 
"Have fun and learn. Kbob seems to have given all the advice I would have, if I had got here first"

Bikerdoc,

I am honored and coming from you I see this as highh praise.

Before anyone asks, I have not been around because I seriously needed to cut back on my screen time. I do take a look see around here once in a while.

One thing that has affected my edge-fu of late is the loss of 95 pounds of mostly gut....since 1 DEC 09. Those Medifast weight loss ads? Beleive them. With out my "body armor" for some reason pocket clip lock blades keep getting loose from being clipped on my front right pocket. Guess it is the "Geometry Change" in my fusilage that is to blame But I would rather loose three knives in four months than have the gut back. Been going cheaper and less user friendly with each purchase until I figure out how to keep a good lock blade on me...and have replaced the older traditional folder in the other pocket with one of the little flat all metal Bucks to make sure I have a lock blade of atleast some sort available when the main knife goes walkabout

While not as convienent, a couple of brands of trousers I have found of late have internal watch pockets and that appears to be a good place to clip on a lock blade if I am not using the pocket for concealed firearms carry.

Later

-kBob
 
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The sharpmaker has 30 and 40 degree angles...and also a hole in the end for doing ~12 degrees on scissors and stuff like that. The trick with the sharpmaker is to use it somewhat frequently. Don't let a knife get extremely dull before you use it. The brown sticks aren't that aggressive compared to a lot of the rough stones out there in different kits so they won't take off that much material if you need to reprofile a blade or sharpen a very dull blade made from very tough steel. I think it's a handy tool to have and it packs up nice and small. Oh, and if you make a knife duller with it, you just need to practice the technique a bit. It's good to have one around for serrated stuff if you have any of that (I don't but I've tried it on serrated items and it works well).
 
I purchased a Sharpmaker about 10 years ago and I think that it is the greatest thing since Instant Mashed Potatoes.
Read the directions and keep in mind that the "angles" are established by the rods , the direction of the moving blade being at right angles to the base of the device.
I THINK that the company publishes a video.
Once in awhile, with a stubborn blade, I'll go back to the stones but for now, it's Spyderco all the way.
 
Ditched it!

Ok, so I was so pissed after zignal_zero's comment as I just spent 70 bucks on the SM, but they were right! I ditched the SM, and exchanged for a Gatco diamond set up, as Cabelas didn't carry a Lasky. It's the same basic system as the lasky, but the rods on the stones don't have the bend at the end.

I sharpened my case stockman, and after only a few minutes at 15 degrees it's shaving scary sharp!

I'm glad I ditched the SM, I know it works for some, but didn't for me. I also like the option of other angles.
 
I don't know if I am typical, but I started with stones as a kid and did just fine, went to ceramic V sticks, then to Lansky system, then to DMT diamond sharpening "stones". Needless to say, I have a lot of stones around from natural to diamond. I could never justify the price of the Sharpmaker system when I did well with others. But frankly, the DMT stones are not cheap. I use them frequently and are my first choice. Everything is freehand.
 
$70 for the sharpmaker is pretty expensive. I bought one brand new for $45 shipped a number of years ago. Worth every penny and then some.
 
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