Thanks for the advice offered earlier re GP100 and wolf springs I ordered the Shooters pack wolff springs from midwayusa.com. I put in the 10 pound hammer spring and the 8 pound trigger spring and like the results. ( I also installed a millet white ramp front sight I am very happy with )
I was somewhat dismayed when the springs did not include installation instructions.
I dissablemed the gun for the first time beyond taking off the grips. Getting the trigger assembly out of main from was a bear. It seemed like an operation that requires 3 hands. I resorted to wrapping the barrel in cardboard and putting the gun a bench vice.
How to replace the Hammer spring was fairly odvious, and I switched out the factory spring for the 10lb spring from the kit. I shied away from the 9 pounder because I dont want to compromise any defensive gun reliability.
I let the gun sit on a sheet covered pull table a couple of days before I got up the nerve to remove the the trigger. I studied the diagram at the back of the instruction manual carefully. I picked up an 8 pack of puches from harbor freight and this proved to be a Godsend. I put the 8 pound trigger spring in and that was pretty easy as well. I think this could also be easying done without removing the trigger but I wanted to try smooth things out some too.
I observed that the source of some annoying grinding in the trigger return between the front area of trigger and the cylinder. I took some emory cloth to this are and also used a rotary tool and clean polishing wheels over the parts. First and foremost in my mind was not to mess anything up as this is already a pretty good shooter ( Stainless 6 in GP100 with adjustable rear sights ) and I have use it to qualify a couple times with satifactory results.
Everything went back together ok, I did launch the hammer spring at one point and one of the tiny ones but they all went back in the way they came out. The gun funtion checked out ok and I took it to the range a couple days ago. I did not not much improvement on the grinding on the trigger return so I think I just stick to making sure I fully release the trigger ( I have bad habbit from shooting a glock of not releasing the trigger completely ).
When it came to shooting, the trigger pull is better than before and I now find staging the trigger is a realistic option. Once I settled in and started doing my part at the range, the results were very satisfying.
I was somewhat dismayed when the springs did not include installation instructions.
I dissablemed the gun for the first time beyond taking off the grips. Getting the trigger assembly out of main from was a bear. It seemed like an operation that requires 3 hands. I resorted to wrapping the barrel in cardboard and putting the gun a bench vice.
How to replace the Hammer spring was fairly odvious, and I switched out the factory spring for the 10lb spring from the kit. I shied away from the 9 pounder because I dont want to compromise any defensive gun reliability.
I let the gun sit on a sheet covered pull table a couple of days before I got up the nerve to remove the the trigger. I studied the diagram at the back of the instruction manual carefully. I picked up an 8 pack of puches from harbor freight and this proved to be a Godsend. I put the 8 pound trigger spring in and that was pretty easy as well. I think this could also be easying done without removing the trigger but I wanted to try smooth things out some too.
I observed that the source of some annoying grinding in the trigger return between the front area of trigger and the cylinder. I took some emory cloth to this are and also used a rotary tool and clean polishing wheels over the parts. First and foremost in my mind was not to mess anything up as this is already a pretty good shooter ( Stainless 6 in GP100 with adjustable rear sights ) and I have use it to qualify a couple times with satifactory results.
Everything went back together ok, I did launch the hammer spring at one point and one of the tiny ones but they all went back in the way they came out. The gun funtion checked out ok and I took it to the range a couple days ago. I did not not much improvement on the grinding on the trigger return so I think I just stick to making sure I fully release the trigger ( I have bad habbit from shooting a glock of not releasing the trigger completely ).
When it came to shooting, the trigger pull is better than before and I now find staging the trigger is a realistic option. Once I settled in and started doing my part at the range, the results were very satisfying.
I struggled with spring jobs on several SP's and my GP and finally broke down and bought a "Ruger Popper" from Brownells. I still have to put the frame in a padded vice but getting the trigger assembly to pop out is much easier. I also polished up the latch and the frame area where it snaps in. That helped quite a bit too.
