Gun Kote rant

[willbrink]

Had a Colt 1991a1 built out (see post). Biggest disappointment so far I must say is the Black Gun Kote over black parkerizing. What total crap. Either the smith applied it incorrectly, or it's just crap, but the gun looks like it's been through WW3. 3 IDPA matches and perhaps 1000rnd, and it looks like it's 50 years old.

I don't mind character marks on a hard used gun that's not a safe queen, but this is crazy!

It was the smith who wanted to do that coating, and I am always open to trying something new. I like good old bluing just fine myself...

Gun was returned to smith for removal of Gun kote and something FAR tougher to be used.

Either it was applied incorrectly (although he's done others for other people) or the people that say this coasting is tough own safe queens. As this is my first (and last) gun with this coating, I don't know which is the correct answer....

 

[DnPRK]

Not a very good rant because you failed to describe the issue. Was it peeling? Flaking? Easy to scratch? Discolored? Softened due to lubricants/cleaners? Pics would help.

 

[willbrink]

Too late for pics as it was sent back. Softened due to lubes/cleaners? I thought it was supposed to resist such things easily. If not, it adds to my dislike for this coating...anyway, mostly flaking off and or easily scratched off. I didn't see peeling or discoloration per se.

 

[BBBBill]

Definitely sounds like a poor application. I've never had that kind of problem with it.

 

[W.E.G.]

 

[Jolly Rogers]

I fail to see the advantage of a painted gun. Park, blued, hard chrome, stainless or some other metal modifying finish is fine and still will wear some. Paint, even powder coating is too soft for me.
I just must be real hard on stuff
Joe

 

[willbrink]

I agree with all you have said. As I said, was not my idea per se, but I like the guy and am open to trying something new (as long as he warrantied it and he did), but I agree, from my experience (n =1) I don't see the benefits of painting a gun.

PS, I have another gun from him that was blued, and thousands of rnds, carried daily, countless IDPA matches using Kydex holsters, and it still looks great. Good bluing is tough, regardless of whether it's old low tech coating.

 

[Mac's]

It most certainly sounds like poor or improper application. You indicated that it may have been softened due to lubes and/or cleaners. If that's the case, then it was not cured properly or even at all. Are you positive that he used Gunkote?

Gunkote is by no means idiot proof but even a doink can get a durable finish just by following the directions on the can. Real expertise will result in a Gunkote finish that is durable and looks good too!

We've (I've) been using Gunkote for close to thirty years and if properly applied, will absolutely not soften with firearms type cleaners or lubes. I once used a super heavy duty industrial grade spray automotive brake cleaner to clean one of my own Gunkote'd pistols. It turned the finish very slightly chalky but even that didn't soften the finish.

Un-cured Gunkote looks dry, feels dry and is dry. But even a weak solvent like rubbing alcohol will cause it to smear.

The finish choice for your pistol is a personal thing. Some like conventional types, some like platings and others like spray on coatings. Each type has it's advantages and disadvantages.

The biggest disadvantage of spray on coatings is that most people think it's easy to do compared to more traditional finishes. Plus, it's a lot cheaper to set up. A used toaster oven, his buddies glass beader, canned air, an $8 airbrush and he's in business! Three finish jobs later and he's an expert. Yeah, right!
Keep yer powder dry, Mac.

 

[willbrink]

Thanx for the info.

"You indicated that it may have been softened due to lubes and/or cleaners"

That was another poster, not I. I don't know if it was softened by lubes or cleaners. I do know, that a can of rustolium spray paint in black would have lasted about as long as the gunkote did on this gun.

 

[RogersPrecision]

wb,
I've seen your posts here and there on the internet. I believe you have had two guns built by this smiff, and have had function problems with them both?
Why assume the product is poor rather than the application?
Remember 'Occams Razor'.

 

[highorder]

no matter how exotic, paint is still paint at the end of the day.

It's too bad that Tripp is getting out of the hard chrome business. Anyone know where to get hard chrome done now?

 

[willbrink]

Mr. Rogers, you will note I was very clear to not blame the products vs the application. I left the door very much open to either and have had enough good feedback in this thread to suspect application over product. I appreciate your adding your thoughts to my thread, and if you didn't have a 1,978,763,98 year waiting list, I would have had you build me something!

 

[moooose102]

if the gun kote was not heat treated (oven baked) after application, it is as soft as rattle can enamel paint. also the gun (or any other part) has to be properly prepared, including a final wash of either mek, or kal-gard's own (primarily mek) cleaner. i have used it on several motorcycle applications, and AFTER CURING it is as tough as case hardened nails. it is to bad it didn't work for you. like my dad ALWAYS said, if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. then, if it goes wrong, you know who to blame!

 

[krs]

Willbrink,

It may be the original finish is the problem. My Colt 1991a1 is one of the black looks like and acts like parkerized finished guns. The finish actually soaks up oil, and I make it nice again once in a while by putting a coat of oil all over it and letting it sit awhile. Next day the gun looks dry and a lot blacker. No oily feel, nothing to wipe off.

The point is that I would not expect any finish whether a paint, Ionbond, or whatever to adhere to such a well oiled topcoat. I mean step A in any refinishing project is to have a scrupulously clean surface to put it on.

I'd bet that your pistol was oily even though it may not have looked or felt oily.

How you'd get it cleaned enough is a very good question that I won't address.

 

[Robert Hairless]

Although I'm nowhere even near the league of Chuck Rogers, Mac, or any other professional, I've used Gun-Kote on quite a few of my own handguns and shotguns with satisfactory results over the years. In my own limited experience it's important to follow the directions and pay great attention to preparation. Gun-Kote applied over parkerization has been durable for me.

Perhas the reason why some people think you are blaming the product instead of the application is because of the title "Gun Kote rant."

 

[orionengnr]

I appreciate your adding your thoughts to my thread, and if you didn't have a 1,978,763,98 year waiting list, I would have had you build me something!

I had Rogers Precision resurrect an abused 1911. I did not find the wait terribly long, and the service provided was well worth both the wait and the price.

 

[willbrink]

Good to know. I sent him a PM to which he didn't respond. If the gun needs additional work, I will try again.

 

[js2013]

I've used gun kote with good results on hundreds of bare metal parts. Gun kote over parkerizing is much tougher and longer lasting than over bare steel. Sounds like your smith missed a step. Metal prep is the key, after that everything is pretty simple. On 1911's Cerra kote is a good tough spray finish.