Gun Recommendation Essay

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  • Fair, but needs some work.

    Votes: 3 18.8%
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Brad Johnson

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Something I've been refining in my spare time. It's getting close to final draft stage. Tell me what you think.....

- Brad
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I will preface this by saying that this is for the novice shooter buying a gun for self-protection. You know, the person who's never picked up a gun before, but through curiosity or necessity has decided to dip their toe in the proverbial pond. Everyone else can go eat lunch, play tennis, shop for new tires, whatever.

If you are familiar with guns and decide to read on, be advised that I will step on a few toes. I'm not trying to be nice and cater to everyone. I am trying to educate new shooters in a factual, safe, and tactically sound manner, and I will not hesitate to point out myth and lore that many shooters hail as golden, infallible fact.

Read on...

SAFETY FIRST.

I cannot stress forcefully enough that the single most important aspect of gun ownership is that you are SAFE!! Don't even consider buying a gun - ANY gun - unless you have, or will take the trouble to acquire, a basic understanding of how to safely and responsibly handle firearms.

At the very least take an Introduction to Firearms class. It's NOT recommended that you take your "introduction" to firearms from a spouse or parent. There is often a factor of intimidation and pressure to perform that can severely undermine the teaching process, so it's best to learn under the watchful eye of a qualified instructor. If you do choose to allow a family member or friend to introduce you to firearms, remember that you are not there to learn to shoot fast and accurate. Worry about that later. Learn safe gun handling first, then concentrate on sight picture and trigger control. Speed and accuracy will gradually increase as you gain skill and confidence. If ANY firearms instruction becomes uncomfortable, or you feel that the environment is unsafe, excuse yourself and go elsewhere.

Above all, remember the four basic firearms safety rules:

1) Treat all guns as if they are loaded
2) Never point the muzzle of a gun at anything you don't want to kill
3) Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to fire
4) Be absolutely sure of your target and what's behind it.

I will stress again that there is no such thing as an unloaded gun. Period. Like Rule #1 says, treat all guns as if they are loaded and ready to fire no matter how "unloaded" you think it is. Even if you are absolutely, positively sure the gun is clear, you still treat it as a loaded weapon. No exceptions. Ever. This goes double when around other who are handling firearms. Never accept a gun from another person, or hand another person a gun, without checking the condition first. If someone is not handling their weapon in a safe manner, ask them to be more careful. If they refuse, leave.

MY UNCLE JOE SAID...

Firearms Constant #1 - Everyone has an opinion on which manufacturer, model, and caliber is the best.

Short of insulting someone's immediate family, there isn't a much better way on the planet to start a spirited .. uhhh .. "discussion" among gun enthusiasts than to ask about which gun to buy. To say it can be a lively topic is a laughable understatement. I have yet to meet a shooter, novice or otherwise, that doesn't have some pretty unshakable opinions about firearms. Your concern should be to find a gun that fits your needs, your price range, and your experience level.

"My Uncle Joe said I should get a ..." I know, I know, your Uncle Joe said that you should get this caliber or that gun, and that all other guns are crap. Hey, everyone has their favorite, and Uncle Joe is no exception. Ever heard of Ford vs. Chevy? Same thing. Uncle Joe has his favorite gun and caliber, and he expects it to be your favorite too. With all due respect to Uncle Joe and his "Colt .45 Forever" bumper sticker, there are many options for you to explore and not all of them are right for you. Take your time and make an informed decision. If Uncle Joe will loan you his gun, all the better. You will have just that much more information on which to make your final decision.

Perception is reality. Unfortunately, perception is subjective and therefore uniquely defined by each individual. Perception is where you find comments about how guns "feel" or "point" or "shoot". A number of positive comments on a particular brand or model of gun means that the gun is probably one you should look at more closely, but do not base your entire decision making process on these comments alone. To do so would be like buying an expensive designer shirt in size 15 based solely on someone's comment about how it fit(them)and felt good (to them)and looked good (on them). Great, except you wear a size 17, so the shirt ends up being a costly shop cloth. Get the picture? Just because a gun feels right and points well for Uncle Joe does not mean it will do the same for you.

You will be privy to an unending litany of "I heard this... or "Somebody said that...". You will find that firearms have a rich history, a great deal of which is based on second-hand information, myth, supposition, and conjecture. Add in the misinformation of the general media and you have all the makings of a complete and total mess. Use common sense and patience, and brush the mental cobwebs off some of those high school science classes. Inappropriate or incorrect gun myth will usually not stand up under basic scientific scrutiny. Common sense will take care of most of the rest. Just remember to ask a lot of questions, apply a large dose of common sense, and remember that pretty much everything you see in the movies and on TV is bunk. Which brings us to....

Indisputable facts and data (which someone, somewhere, will always try to dispute). Facts are always good, even if they may be dry and boring. Most of the time it will be readily apparent when a recommendation or tactic is based in fact. The author or person will go to great lengths to back up their position with data and studies that are easily verified or can through simple means be shown to be correct. This new data is often met with scorn because a lot of it flies in the face of tradition and usually bruises a few egos. Shooters tend to be a proud, traditional bunch, so you can see where a change, any change, is not something that is easily accomplished. Don't let it dissuade you if a group of shooters are using myth and speculation trying to discount something you know to be true. They will finally capitulate to fact, and eventually the disagreement will be put to rest.

An unknown author was pretty much on the money when he said "90 percent of gun stories are total crap, 5 percent are mostly crap, 3 percent are sprinkled with a little crap, and the 2 percent that are true are discounted by so-called experts because the facts don't support their personal opinions." Exactly.

CRITERIA

This is the easy part - just ask yourself "Why am I buying this gun?" Will this be a concealed-carry gun, or is it just something to plink with on the weekends? Who will be shooting the gun? What is your skill level and how often are you willing to practice with your gun? How often are you willing to clean your gun? How much do you want to pay?

TYPE OF HANDGUN

"Do I need a revolver or a semi-auto, and what caliber should I get?" Excellent question - glad you asked!

If you are a novice shooter and are not willing to practice at least 2 times a month, then get a name-brand 3- or 4-inch double-action revolver. Don't argue, just do it. And get it chambered in .357 Magnum. The 357 Magnum cartridge is still at the top of the heap when it comes to proven stopping power, and there are dozens of very effective personal defense loads to choose from. It will also fire .38 Special cartridges if you want something more sedate and less expensive to practice with.

Why a double action revolver and nothing else? Simple. A double action revolver is the most straightforward and reliable multiple round handgun you can buy. There are no controls to manipulate and few operational problems to contend with. In fact, if you will just keep it clean and use factory ammunition, the probability of a malfunction in a decent revolver is almost zero. Just point it and pull the trigger. Revolvers are also available in an almost infinite combination of size and caliber. This is the ONLY gun you should consider if you are not willing to learn any more than just basic firearm skills. Period.

Don't consider a semi-auto until you have a solid grasp on basic safety and gun handling skills. Some die-hards will state unequivocally that you should "learn what you are going to shoot". Apologies for having to be blunt about it, but they are wrong. Starting an novice shooter on a semi-auto is liking teaching Driver's Education in a Viper. Too many distractions, too much going on at once, and too little time spent concentrating on the task at hand. Build one skill at a time. Develop your shooting proficiency, then start learning new weaponry. A good instructor will start you on a .22 revolver and progress you into more powerful, more complex handguns as your proficiency grows. If they don't start you out this way, or refuse to honor your request to do so, find another instructor.

Once you've decided on a particular style of gun, go to your local gun shop and try several different models to see which fits you best. If you're lucky, the shop will also have a range where you can try different combinations of guns and calibers. You should also find a local range and see if they have rental guns you can try. Keep trying out guns until you find the one you feel is right for you.

CONCEALED-CARRY

It is often said that when carrying a handgun it cannot be small or light enough, but if you have to use it that it cannot be big or powerful enough. That's pretty much it in a nutshell. This has resulted in a new generation of ultra-light, ultra-small handguns made from exotic things like space-age plastics, carbon fiber, and titanium. As an example, an average 6-shot .357 Magnum revolver will tip the scales at around 32 oz (that's two pounds for the conversionally challenged) while the new crop of svelte 5-shot revolvers weigh in at less than a pound. There are even some polymer-frame semi-autos at less than 10 oz. (about the weight of a typical cell phone). With full power ammunition these tiny terrors can be a handful, so they are not something you would use for everyday plinking.

Again, go to your local gun shop or range and look, look, look. Keep in mind that a gun that is light and easy to conceal will probably not be very pleasant to shoot for extended periods. Getting used to these little cannons is often intimidating, even for seasoned shooters. Don't worry, just keep practicing.

HOME PROTECTION

Home protection is pretty much wide open as to selection of guns. Unlike concealed carry, size is not an issue with a home-protection gun. Use the guidelines discussed earlier to select the type of gun.

You also have the option of a shotgun. It's not something recommended for novice shooters, as even the most basic pump shotguns still have controls that must be manipulated. Also, most shotguns are simply too long to be suitable for home defense purposes (unless you get a special short version often referred to as a "riot gun"). A double-barrel shotgun may be simpler to use, but has limited ammunition capacity and is still too long for adequate maneuverability. Again, if you are a novice shooter, stick with a double action revolver.

CALIBER

Caliber is always an issue when it comes to defense guns, and discussions about it can be pretty intense. As a general rule, bigger is usually better when it comes to caliber. However, the single most important aspect of caliber selection is being able to hit the target. More on that later.

Most experts agree that the smallest you should use for dedicated personal protection is .32 ACP, and even it is deemed marginal. Cartridges smaller than .32 ACP should be considered insufficient for personal protection. Although something is better than nothing at all, without perfect shot placement (which only happens in the movies) these small calibers lack the punch to do much more than just annoy the heck out of your attacker. Save them for last-ditch backup guns to be used when there is no other option.

There is absolutely no question about the effectiveness of most modern defense ammunition. In every cartridge from .380 ACP to .44 Magnum most manufacturers have at least one, and usually several, good self-defense load to choose from. As you begin shooting, you will find that everyone has an opinion about bullet weight vs velocity. Lighter & Faster vs Bigger & Slower always has, and probably always will, be a point of contention for many shooters. Don't worry, any good self-defense round make a mess of the Bad Guy's day. You should try several different brands and bullet weights to see which is the most accurate and controllable in your gun. Stick with that.

If you still want to know which one is tops, take your pick..357 Magnum, .45 ACP, .357 Sig, and .40 S&W are virtually shoulder-to-shoulder when it comes to documented stopping power. .38 Special and 9mm are not far behind, and ammunition technology is quickly closing the gap.

Do NOT use plain round nose ("ball") or flat-nosed ("wadcutter") ammunition unless there is no other choice. The technical reason for doing so is long-winded and dry. Suffice it to say that ball and wadcutter ammunition is only rated about half as good at stopping the bad guy as comparable hollow-point personal defense ammunition. Check with local law enforcement first, as hollow-point ammunition is restricted for personal defense in some areas.

SHOT PLACEMENT

As said before, the single most critical factor in using a gun for self-defense is SHOT PLACEMENT. Okay, so you bought the best gun in the most powerful caliber. Great. It's nothing more than an expensive noisemaker unless you hit the bad guy.

Don't just buy a gun and then run home and stick it in the dresser. Hey, you bought this thing to protect your life, remember? At least take it to the range and make sure that you can really hit what you are aiming at. You don't have to be an expert marksman, but you should be able to keep all your shots on an 8" paper plate at any distance less than 7 yards. Don't worry about rapid-fire drills either. Slow down and work on sight picture and trigger control. Like they say in competition, "You can't miss fast enough to win."

BUT THIS PERSON SAID....

Don't worry about what everyone says. Like we talked about before, firearms are swimming in a sea of myth, conjecture, and supposition. Here are just a few of the things you will hear....

MYTH - Hollow point bullets explode when they hit.
FACT - Hollow point bullets expand when they hit to as much as twice their original diameter. This causes massive tissue and nervous system trauma. That's what you want. You will hear the term phrase "one shot stop" bandied about a lot. This is the holy grail of personal defense - One shot, one bad guy neutralized.

MYTH - You should rack the slide on a shotgun to scare off an intruder.
FACT - Your greatest asset in an intruder situation is your knowledge of your surroundings and the intruder's lack of knowledge about your position. Racking the slide on a shotgun will do several things, not the least of which is to give away your position and negate that bit of your tactical advantage. It will also either a) shuck a perfectly good round out of the chamber and onto the floor, or b) shuck a round into what was an empty chamber. In either instance, you're going into battle with one less round than you could have had. Considering that most shotguns only have a 4+1 maximum capacity, you have just handed yourself an instant 20% disadvantage. If you feel the need to make noice, just say "I have a shotgun and I've called the police."

MYTH - Wadcutter and ball ammo are just as effective as hollow points.
FACT - Wadcutter and ball ammo often do not expand when they hit a target, and expend little energy on tissue and nervous system trauma. Also, they often penetrate completely throught the target to hit something on the other side (like a child or innocent bystander). Little hole in, little hole out. Hollow point personal defense ammunition is designed to expend all it's energy on the target, leaving little or no energy for over-penetration. Little hole in, no hole out.

MYTH - This (fill in caliber) is better than (fill in caliber)
FACT - While some calibers may produce more energy than others, modern personal defence ammunition has dramatically narrowed the gap between the stopping ability of different calibers. Shot placement is much more critical than caliber. You must hit the target in order to neutralize it, regardless of what gun or caliber you shoot. After all, you'd rather be missed with a .44 Magnum than shot with a .22, right?

MYTH - A revolver is better than a semi-auto (or vice-versa).
FACT - Although there are specific applications where one configuration might be more suited for the intended task, neither type of handgun is necessarily "better" than the other. Different? Yes. But not better.

MYTH - This (fill in the gun brand) will last a million rounds. Those others will die after a couple hundred.
FACT - No gun will last a million rounds in a totally original configuration. All guns require regular cleaning and maintenance, and will eventually require parts replacement. Springs lose tension, surfaces rub until tolerances open up, rifling wears down, etc. Anything mechanical eventually wears out. Claims of "million round guns" usually leave out the extensive trail of replaced parts. Grandpa may have put new handles and new heads on his axe over the years, but it's still the same axe. Or is it? Suffice it to say that any good name brand gun, properly maintained, will be something that you can pass on to your grandchildren.

MYTH - This (fill in the blank) shooting stance it better than any other
FACT - The best shooting stance for you depends on what you are doing, your body type, the type of firearm, etc. Don't let anyone tell you that one, and only one, shooting stance is all that you should ever use.

MYTH - Don't worry about cleaning your gun. Just shoot till it stops working, then clean it.
FACT - You can't go wrong cleaning your gun. Must guns are designed to function with some amount of carbon and powder residue build-up. That doesn't mean you should let it happen. Keeping a gun clean lessens the chance of a malfunction and inhibits rust and corrosion. It's also a sign of pride, just like a clean car. Oh, and remember that just a few drops of oil are all that is needed on your nice, clean gun. Over-lubricating a gun is almost as bad as not lubricating it at all.

IN CONCLUSION

Actually, there is no conclusion. Unless you buy a gun, stick it in a drawer, and never let it see the light of day again, shooting skills and taste in firearms are an ever-evolving personal quest. Enjoy your time learning to master your new tool, and always remember that it's something to be respected.

Safe Shooting....
 
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I would thoroughly and completely dispute the idea that a "class" from an "instructor" is any better at teaching gun safety than a dedicated parent teaching his children himself (assuming, of course, that the parent himself understands gun safety).

Gun safety was taught from father to son for the last 400 or so years, and I see no reason why we should think it is now somehow inadequate.

Also, this statement:

Like Rule #1 says, treat all guns as if they are loaded and ready to fire no matter how "unloaded" you think it is. Even if you are absolutely, positively sure the gun is clear, you still treat it as a loaded weapon. No exceptions. Ever.

Rule 1, when worded this way, is confusing to newcomers. If you follow this rule, you will never be able to take your gun apart to clean it, because no one would ever attempt to disassemble a gun that might be loaded. It also would mean never to dry fire your gun unless you are at the range.

What Rule 1 really should be is, "treat all guns as if they are loaded until you prove otherwise".

My last point is this statement:

Do NOT use plain round nose ("ball") or flat-nosed ("wadcutter") ammunition unless there is no other choice.

This is a matter of preference, and I would say is disputable. I think its ok to recommend JHP's but I certainly wouldn't tell people NOT to use FMJs. There are some firearms "experts" who would recommend nothing but FMJ's.
 
Very good indeed! I'd take issue with only one point:
A good instructor will start you on a .22 revolver and progress you into more powerful, more complex handguns as your proficiency grows. If they don't start you out this way, or refuse to honor your request to do so, find another instructor.
I respectfully submit that to start someone with light .38 loads is just about as good. Wadcutters out of a Model 10 are no problem for a novice, and the platform can carry over into more effective defensive ammo. That said, I do agree with you that .22 is an excellent "beginner" caliber, and I use it that way when instructing others.

Lone_Gunman, your point is good, but it assumes that there are gun-owning (not to mention gun-shooting!) fathers around to do the teaching... something that's sadly lacking in many families today. :(
 
Great essay Brad! I understand and agree with the point that a father teaching a son/daughter about shooting is definitely the preferred way to go, but we're talking about a father who knows guns himself, has 1/4 of a lifetime of impromptu training sessions and a place to shoot. I see this as an article for those who haven't been so lucky.

One grammatical error I noticed:

"...Just because a gun feel right and points well for Uncle Joe..."

I personally wouldn't downplay a shotgun so much for home defense. I would recommend a shotgun over a pistol to an inexperienced shooter for home defense simply because A. it's physically more difficult to accidently fatally shoot yourself with a long gun than a pistol B. a shotgun is more effective and C. a shotgun has more flexibility and uses. One point in favor of a handgun over a shotgun is the ability to more easily hide a handgun in a place where you can get to it easily.
 
I'd take issue with your words on shotguns. The manual of arms on my Rem. 870 is about the same as my Daisy BB gun that I had when I was eight. Actually, the BB gun was harder to operate!

You have a safety, make sure that's OFF when you want to use it.

You must rack a round into the chamber to fire.

Pull the trigger. THAT'S IT! Yes, it's not as simple as a DAO revolver. It's much easier to aim though given the longer barrel and sight radius.

I might take flak for this one, but please don't tell newbies that it's a good idea to keep a shotgun with a chambered round around the house. Shotguns are dangerous, in my eyes, in that the hammer is always cocked back on the things. The safety is often non-obvious too in my experience. Given that it's such any easy weapon to operate and can be taken from unchambered to chamberd in under a second even with GROSSLY impaired motor skills (vs a semi-auto revolver) I see no reason for somebody unaquainted with their operation to keep a round in the chamber.

My Rem 870 has a very small little button to remove the safety. Under stress I would much prefer somebody rack the slide than try and turn the safety off. If you're practiced a lot when the gun and are comfortable with it -- more power to you. Yes, you've reduced your capacity by a round. Do you really want to scare newbies into thinking that they'll NEED 5-6 shotgun shells instead of just 4 or 5? Leave the 3 BGs breaking in scenario discussions for those that are into the topic. Actually for most people 'round here 3 BG's at close range with 5 shotgun shells will be PLENTY. 4 rounds for a newbie and 2 BGs should be presented to them as PLENTY also. Lets not scare them into buying wondernine Glocks with 17rounds of ammo and adopting a pray and spray attitude.
 
Good comments, all. Let me address them in order so you can understand why I went in one direction or the other on certain aspects.

Lone_Gunman...

Teaching by family members - A few years ago I worked for a friend at a local range. All too often I saw the frustration on the faces of new gunners when a family member or friend was trying to teach them the ropes. There is a certain air of intimidation and "performance anxiety" that goes with close relations teaching firearms handling, and it often gets in the way of the newbie learning properly. They are too nervous about performing up to their father's/brother's/friend's expectations. Learning from a complete stranger eliminates that problem and lets the first-timer concentrate on the task at hand. Understand that I wrote this essay in the context of a new ADULT gun owner, not a child, and I will heartily recommend parents and children spending time together learning proper gun handling technique.

Treating every gun as if it's loaded - I won't budge on this one. Treating a gun as if it's loaded "until proven otherwise" is a recipe for disaster. Too many times I've been around someone handling a gun only to end up staring down the barrel. When I ask them to stop, their reply is always "I made sure it wasn't loaded". Frankly, I don't care if the barrel is welded shut. You ALWAYS treat a firearm as if it is loaded and ready to fire.

The use ball or wadcutter ammo not being recommended - This is simple. From a personal protection standpoint, ball and wadcutter ammo is simply less effective than a premium hollow point. It's not personal preference, it's physics.

Preacherman..

I can appreciate the use of a low-power .38 if there is nothing else available, but it is still a far cry from a .22 in recoil, muzzle blast, and noise. As I noted above, I worked at a range and did some careful observation of new shooters. The .22 with it's non-existant recoil, slight noise, and small size allowed new shooters to immediately concentrate on the task at hand. With the .38, they usually took several minutes and several dozen rounds to figure out that the gun was not going to "bite" them. I feel it's just a better way to introduce the novice shooter to the sport if you can put to rest all the fears and anxieties about the gun after the first trigger pull.

ReadyontheRight..

Thanks for the heads-up on the grammar. I've corrected it in my working draft. As for the parent/child aspect, see my reply to Lone_Gunman for clarification. I decided to downplay the shotgun for one reason - there is just more to do when wielding a shotgun than there is with a DA revolver. For a novice gun owner with home protection in mind, I would still like to see them start with a DA revolver, then graduate into a shotgun once they are a little more up to speed on proper gun handling.

GigaBuist..

I like the 870. In fact I have two. That still doesn't make it the right choice for a new shooter. Too many things to remember, or go wrong, when the fecal matter hits the fan. With a DA revolver there's no need to rack the slide or remove the safety, it's just Point and Click. If the novice gun owner gets to the point that they feel they can reliably operate a shotgun in a panic situation, then I encourage them to explore that possibility, but not before they feel they are ready. This also goes to the "round in the chamber" concern you have. If the novice is not comfortable with this aspect, or if there are mitigating factors (like children) then we are back to the DA revolver as the preferred recommendation. As far as justifying the number of rounds, I can't, in good faith, recommend to someone that they limit their ability to protect themselves by 20%. If the situation will not allow you to take full advantage of the weapon's potential, then it's probably not the right weapon for that situation.

Thanks to All for the comments! I will keep them all in mind as this essay evolves.

Brad
 
Good stuff! I esp. like the tone and the paucity of typos. (Did notice one "it's" for "its," as well as "make noice" and "defence"--your Lubbock is in TX, not UK, right? ;) )

The only other thing that stood out was that, without all your dry references to back you up, you're saying, in effect, "Don't listen to Uncle Joe, but go ahead and trust me 'cause I know what I'm talking about." Hey, at least I KNOW Uncle Joe...

And now, because you've inspired me, I'll post an essay and you can repay me in kind.

Oh, and I loved you in Flight of the Intruder! :D
 
I think you did a pretty good job on your essay. However I do have a few issues with it.

I think friends and relitives can make very good instructors for the beginner. I was intorduced to firearms by a friend and co-worker not to long ago. He brought me to the range a wide range of firearms for me to try showed me how they worked, and let me try them all. I was hooked after my first shot, witch was a T/C in 44mag. OH boy was that fun:D Now I am a gun nut:D

The other problem I have with your essay is the insistance that someone who doesn't want to go to the range should get a double action 357mag with a 3 or 4 inch barrel. IMNSHO a person should get whatever there heart desires. What if the person doesn't really like revolvers or they remember stories about grandpa in WW2 with his 1911 and really want to shoot what grandpa shot. Or in my case I remember watching I believe 20/20 as a kid and seeing the evil plastic Glock. In the back of my head I always really wanted one. I bought a G19 right off the bat. I have never regreted that decision. Why, because thats what I wanted. And I shoot it all the time and it's still my favorite handgun.

But all in all a very good job.
 
Average Guy...

I don't know, some of that PRK socialist elitism may have rubbed off on you. You sure you can still think for yourself? :neener:

Besides, I kan put bak in all the tipos from befor I ran it throo the spel cheker. :D

Brad
 
Brad! Very nice! I agreed with you up until you say that .22 revolvers are the ONLY way to start a novice, but I have to respectfully disagree. Those with no firearms background but are mechanically saavy are smart enough to figure out autos on their first go-around.

I think you also need to emphasize that handguns suck, and while one shot stops ARE the holy grail, you need to re-emphasize that...well...handguns suck ;)
 
The other problem I have with your essay is the insistance that someone who doesn't want to go to the range should get a double action 357mag with a 3 or 4 inch barrel. IMNSHO a person should get whatever there heart desires.

I wholeheartedly agree with you. My intent was to give them a recommendation for a decent, reliable first handgun. Notice that I contextualized the recommendation with a preface about the person's willingness to become proficient with their handgun. For reference, here's the whole sentence...

"If you are a novice shooter and are not willing to practice at least 2 times a month, then get a name-brand 3- or 4-inch double-action revolver."

It would be my preference that anyone considering buying their first handgun would take the time to research different makes and models to see which one seems to fit their physical, finacial, and tactical needs best.

Brad
 
Skunkabilly...

Thanks for the kudos. Much appreciated!

If the novice shooter thinks they can handle the extra complexity of the auto and is ready and willing to learn to properly operate the weapon, then by all means they should stick with it. As long as they are having fun and still being safe, more power to them.

However, I will continue to make my first recommendation the .22 revolver for the simple reason that it is the least intimidating round in the least complex gun. I've seen far too many newbies get discouraged because they were struggling with getting used to the muzzle blast, recoil, or some other operational aspect of shooting something more powerful than a .22 and more complex than a revolver. Getting them started with the most basic of basics, then graduating them up to more powerful and/or complex guns is a sound, solid technique that works, and works well.

Brad
 
Brad, you avoided answering my question.

Would you attempt to field strip a gun you thought was loaded?

If you treat every gun as if it was loaded, then you cannot disassemble it, because it would be unsafe to disassemble a gun that is loaded.

If you have ever disassembled a gun, or dry fired it anywhere except a range, then you have violated Rule 1 as worded in your post.
 
Lone_Gunman...

sigh.. :rolleyes: I was trying to keep this civil.

I was not avoiding your question, I was avoiding insulting you by having to explain the obvious in my answer.

You treat the gun as if it's loaded by keeping in mind the other three tenets of safe gun handling as you disassemble the weapon. Once you have it broken down, you handle the components as you would any other peice of metal or plastic.

The fact that I have to explain the concept to you is, quit frankly, a little bit disturbing. That you would put your life and the lives of other in jeopardy by abbreviating the single most critical aspect of safe gun handling is just plain scary.

And no, dry firing somewhere other than the range does not violate Rule One as long as you are practicing the other three rules.

Brad
 
No I dont think I have abbreviated anything by modifying Rule 1 to state that the weapon should be treated as if it were loaded until proven otherwise by the operator. Otherwise, as I have stated, you can't justify disassembling it. Understand though, that even if I have proven to myself a gun is unloaded, the other rules are still in effect.

I will back off. I am making a fine point, and I don't think I am communicating it well enough for you to understand exactly what I mean. Have fun.
 
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