Been doing some research on the internet regarding gun safes. Have seen some good information, some bad. Obviously, it's nice to have some good fire protection. The real question I have though is, how heavy-duty of a safe do you really need?? I'm not talking about el-cheapo safes made out of steel no thicker than a car fender. I'm talking about safes $1000 and up made of 12 gauge, 10 ga., or 3/16" steel and with locking bolts on at least 2 sides. Obviously the more bolts and the thicker the better, but after looking all over the internet, I can find few (if any) documented reports of break-ins into a decent quality ($1000+) safe. I realize that the high dollar ($3500+) safes have a few more features, but are any of you guys aware of any break-ins into a good quality, bolted-down safe that would reasonably justify paying say $4k for a Liberty Presidential or high-end Fort Knox vs. buying a Liberty Lincoln, etc. for around $1700-$2000?????
Gun safe discussion
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El Tejon
Member
Sure, lots. Worked a lot of residential burglaries. Usually they knock it down and then beat on a corner and then stick a pry bar in opening the top like a sardine can. However, professional crews will use cutting torches. Top or sides is how they usually get in.
I like Johnson Safes as Jeff welds them right so they are more resistant to being beaten apart. Plus Jeff Johnson uses a ceramic blanket like they use around commerical water heaters as fireproofing. The house can burn down around the safe and your guns will be fine.
I like Johnson Safes as Jeff welds them right so they are more resistant to being beaten apart. Plus Jeff Johnson uses a ceramic blanket like they use around commerical water heaters as fireproofing. The house can burn down around the safe and your guns will be fine.
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leadcounsel
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cheygriz
member
IMHO, the Fort Knox is the best production safe made. You can get a large vesion of their "middle of the road" models for $2,000 to $3000. Not quite as fancy, or pretty, but just as stong as the $4,000+ models
Locks on all four sides. Weighs in around 850-1200lbs empty, and easily attaches to a wall or floor. (Best if properly attached to a concrete floor.)
IMHO, a safe should be permanently attached, so securely, that you leave it as part of the house if you move, and buy a new one when you relocate.
And if selling the house, remember to tell the potential buyer that's it's a SAFE, not just a gun safe. It will add value to the house, as it's a good place to store the wife's jewelry, Great grandma's sterling silver, etc.
And many insurance companies will give you a reduced rate on insuring valuables if they're in a safe.
Locks on all four sides. Weighs in around 850-1200lbs empty, and easily attaches to a wall or floor. (Best if properly attached to a concrete floor.)
IMHO, a safe should be permanently attached, so securely, that you leave it as part of the house if you move, and buy a new one when you relocate.
And if selling the house, remember to tell the potential buyer that's it's a SAFE, not just a gun safe. It will add value to the house, as it's a good place to store the wife's jewelry, Great grandma's sterling silver, etc.
And many insurance companies will give you a reduced rate on insuring valuables if they're in a safe.
Mannlicher
Member
I have these two for long guns, and a Liberty for the handguns. All are top quality, fire resistant, and heavy.
There was a case reported here:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=1930224&postcount=20
with an image of the safe, attacked and defeated with an axe.
I'm not very knowledgable in the area of safes/RSCs (residential security container), but THR members a1abdj and CB900F are in the business of selling them and a search of their past posts on the topics of safes and RSCs will bring up a lot.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=1930224&postcount=20
with an image of the safe, attacked and defeated with an axe.
I'm not very knowledgable in the area of safes/RSCs (residential security container), but THR members a1abdj and CB900F are in the business of selling them and a search of their past posts on the topics of safes and RSCs will bring up a lot.
The Deer Hunter
Member
Man, I felt really uncomfortable watching that but I guess if you want real security your going to have to dish out a whole bunch of money.
If you want extra fire proofing for short money you could always get some fire code 5/8" drywall or cement board and line the outside with that.
American_Pit_Bull
Member
A friend of my family had a break-in and is safe was breached with the common construction tools from his own garage. They basically beat their way into the side of the $1600 gun safe. They got away with over a dozen firearms.
Torch protection
I think some of the high dollar safes use magnesium sheets on the inside to protect against torches. Apparently it causes a rather nasty explosion if torched. Obviously, with such a safe, you want to make it very clear with a sign on the outside that explains what will happen if it is torched.
As for security, the safe is just a part. With the right equipment and time, nearly any safe can be opened. A good security system is also an important part to hopefully deny the burglars the luxury of time to pound on it.
I think some of the high dollar safes use magnesium sheets on the inside to protect against torches. Apparently it causes a rather nasty explosion if torched. Obviously, with such a safe, you want to make it very clear with a sign on the outside that explains what will happen if it is torched.
As for security, the safe is just a part. With the right equipment and time, nearly any safe can be opened. A good security system is also an important part to hopefully deny the burglars the luxury of time to pound on it.
RNB65
Member
Use the search function and search on "gun safe" and "rsc" and you'll find a lot of great info. There are a couple of professional locksmiths who post here regularly and you'll find their comments particularly informative.
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