Gun safe in garage?

[Tom488]

Protecting the laminate floor is easy.... sheets of 1/8" hardboard or masonite. That, and a heavy-duty appliance/hand truck will let you move it.

As for leaving it on a pallet - not a good idea. Get it close to where you want it, about 2 feet or so from the wall. Now, unbolt it from the pallet, and have you and a buddy walk it backwards off the back of the pallet, until it's about halfway off, but not so far that it wants to fall off. Put a block of wood under the back of the safe, a little shorter than the pallet. Push from the front of the safe to tip it back, onto your block of wood. Now pull the pallet out, and ease the front of the safe down to the floor. Tip it the other way, and kick the block of wood out from the back. Now set it down and push it in to final position.

I did this myself with a 975lb. safe, so your 1035lb shouldn't be any different.

 

[OldMac]

Check to see if the door comes off. That will cut the weight in half and make the move much easier. A thin layer of synthetic felt under the safe will help repel moisture and keep it from rusting. It will also help slide it into place. Trim after it is in place. Bolt it in place and use epoxy or concrete over the bolt head inside. As suggested above, the corner is the best location. Build a cabinet, wall, or shelves on the exposed safe wall and top. Now only the door is accessible. The door is the strongest part of the unit so protecting the skin on the sides and top will slow down a thief while providing convenient storage where you need it.

 

[CB900F]

Grayson;

I'm a professional locksmith who specializes in safes. Moving across a laminate, ceramic tile, or other fragile floor isn't that hard if you prepare properly. Lay a moving blanket on the floor, cover that with 1/2" plywood cut in 2 X 8' strips & roll the unit. Is the safe over 5' tall? If so, then I'd probably not try to move it with an appliance dolly. See if you can't rent a set of piano moving rollers. Sills can be handled with the same 2' X 8' plywood strips with a 2X2 on each side of the sill & a little bracing underneath. We have fabricated steel sill ramps, but it certainly can be done with the plywood. A couple of 2' X 2' light sheet steel plates will ease the ramping on & off the 1/2" plywood. About a half dozen 1/4" steel rods 2' long will also help rolling it into final position. DON'T get in a hurry and do think very carefully about what you're going to do first.

900F

 

[heeler]

Grayson,in post #11 you spoke of your laminate flooring.
I had the same dilemma last year as I had all that nasty carpet ripped out of my house and replaced with a laminate floor.
At the same time the work was being done my Amsec BF 66X36 was on order and since it weighed in excess of 1200 pounds unloaded I was more than concerned about the weight sitting forever on the laminate flooring.
What I did was have the flooring contractor put some really hard porcelin tile in a corner in the room the safe was designated for which was a 3'x4' in size.
When the safe and vault company came to deliver they asked in advance what type of flooring I had in the house among several other questions.
They laid 3/4" plywood stacked two layers thick and moved that save in like it was nothing.
Absolutely zero floor damage.
If I had to do this all over again I would have foregone putting the super hard porcelin in the corner and would have went with 12"x12" commercial grade VCT as the pad and would have had it sized as close to the safes footprint as possible.