Gunscrubber or sonic cleaner?

[Axis II]

My local firearms shop has gun scrubber synthetic safe on sale for $3-can. I am thinking about buying a few for jobs such as cleaning the slide and frame/internals of my M&P but I've been reading mixed reviews of don't use or use cause its synthetic safe. I also cant get the inside chamber/bolt area of my 22lr rifle clean enough so I figured this would work.

I also heard someone say to use a sonic cleaner and just toss the hole frame and slide in there and leave it run. I don't know anything about these so what's your preferred method?

 

[gwpercle]

I'm old school and use something like gun scrubber , for chambers and barrels a brass brush and a rod.
My cleaner of choice is a DIY mixture call Ed's Red Bore Cleaner, do a search for the recipe and instructions for use.
For the spray type gun scrubber I use spray automotive carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner ...works better and much cheaper than any product labeled for firearms...
Gary

 

[LoonWulf]

I use break cleaner as well, but I try not to use it on anything painted or plastic.

I've got a lab grade Sonic cleaner sitting in my shop, what we're they suggesting for detergent?
If I can get a detergent recipe ill toss my canik in there and see what happens.

 

[Axis II]

I use break cleaner as well, but I try not to use it on anything painted or plastic.

I've got a lab grade Sonic cleaner sitting in my shop, what we're they suggesting for detergent?
If I can get a detergent recipe ill toss my canik in there and see what happens.

I'm not sure. I was at the range and someone mentioned cleaning and the girl said ill just strip it and throw it in the sonic cleaner. I thought those were only for cleaning reloading brass and not whole handguns. I'm treading lightly cause of the polymer frame otherwise brake cleaner would be the ticket. I found some sort of citric stripper that's supposed to be non harmful start eating plastic. I noticed after 1k rounds my M&P inside of the frame is very nasty so would like to clean it.

 

[LoonWulf]

Hrrmmm.....guess I could try the old dish soap, it makes a bit of a mess, but Ive used it on car parts I'm to lazy to scrub by hand.
Rinse, then blast that out with canned air (need to replace the motor on my compressor) and re-oil....we'll see how it comes out

Now to go find the cord for the cleaner

Soaking the frame in something like WD-40 or other light oil/non harmful solvent, then blasting it out with compressed air can work well also

 

[LoonWulf]

I'd forgotten how small this thing is.....now I remember why I wanted a larger one for car parts.

 

[Axis II]

I'd forgotten how small this thing is.....now I remember why I wanted a larger one for car parts.

View attachment 812377

yeah, I think its time for a larger one lol.

 

[nettlle]

I have a couple of auto loaders with shake and bake finishes. I am a bit concerned about using a sonic cleaner on these finishes.

 

[Bama59]

check out gunblue490 on you tube cleaning AR15 mineral spirits and LSA,

 

[LoonWulf]

I have a couple of auto loaders with shake and bake finishes. I am a bit concerned about using a sonic cleaner on these finishes.

I'll stick the slide in there after I get the frame out, the dirt and oils gone, but the grease i use is still there.

 

[2011ERIC]

I’ve mever had an issue with Gun Scrubber on synthetic/polymers.

 

[dh1633pm]

I use a sonic cleaner for all sorts of parts. I use degreaser and dawn. Afterwards I rinse, blow dry and then lub where needed. Gun Scrubber smells and attacks certain finishes. Doesn't mean I don't have a can of it. Certainly don't use it inside.

 

[sparkyv]

I use break cleaner as well, but I try not to use it on anything painted or plastic.

I've got a lab grade Sonic cleaner sitting in my shop, what we're they suggesting for detergent?
If I can get a detergent recipe ill toss my canik in there and see what happens.

I use one teaspoonful of citric acid and around 10 or 15 drops of Dawn dish soap to 2 quarts water. I've cleaned out pistol barrels with great success. You must dry the parts immediately after sonication and lubricate. I have not sonicated aluminum or other soft metals, nor anything with target or "dot" sights. Sonicators are pretty aggressive, so I suggest going slowly and testing questionable parts before going full bore. I plan to sonicate my Marlin M60 trigger group soon. Let's see how that goes!

BTW, this works great on brass!

 

[shoobe01]

People who don't own plastic framed guns are — or were raised by — old timers who assume all plastic is crap. Gun parts in plastic are designed and specified by gun makers who are aware the guns get hot, cold, dropped, cleaned, etc. Even as far back as the 50s when real polymers were replacing troublesome rubber and bakelite sorts of materials, they were very resistant to gun oils, etc.

Yes, brake cleaner (otherwise very good) and aggressive use of sonic cleaners can remove homebrew finishes when not well applied (and cerakoke definitely is one of these). Test first.

It is generally hard to damage plastic and metal parts of guns, but some things can. Simple Green for example is a corrosive that can eat away at unprotected aluminum. At least some parts of the US Military restrict use of it (on aircraft, vehicles, guns, and more) because of this.

 

[cheygriz]

I use Gun Scrubber by the case.

OUTDOORS!

 

[foxmeadow]

Use of compressed air on slides has resulted in crud being driven farther into firing pin channels, causing malfs. If you are detail stripping your slide, like removing the firing pin, compressed air is not a problem.

 

[cheygriz]

Why wouldn't you detail strip your slide???

 

[JONWILL]

Simple Green and Hot Water. I also use LA's Awesome Cleaner I get from Dollar Tree.
The LA stuff really takes all the oil and grease off.

I rinse in the basement sink sprayer with hot water.

 

[gwpercle]

I'm not sure. I was at the range and someone mentioned cleaning and the girl said ill just strip it and throw it in the sonic cleaner. I thought those were only for cleaning reloading brass and not whole handguns. I'm treading lightly cause of the polymer frame otherwise brake cleaner would be the ticket. I found some sort of citric stripper that's supposed to be non harmful start eating plastic. I noticed after 1k rounds my M&P inside of the frame is very nasty so would like to clean it.

Ed's Red Bore Cleaner is just the ticket for chamber and bore , but I wouldn't soak anything polymer in the mix , it contains equal parts ATF , kerosene, mineral spirits and acetone...might just eat up a plastic pistol !
I remove the wood grips from my steel framed pistols and let them soak for hours.
Have never tried a sonic cleaner so have no insight to that method.
You can mix up a gallon of Ed's Red Bore Cleaner for $20.00 ...great stuff for the gun nasties .
Gary

 

[LoonWulf]

I shot my canik out with Walmart break clean this morning just to see what it would do to the poly, and there was no reaction on my frame. Probably worth testing before going whole sale on them, but at least with my gun it's a viable cleaning option.

Found some other plastic/paint safe stuff from crc I'll try at some point as well.

 

[John Joseph]

I use an old tooth brush.
It's free. I'm a cheap skate.
Win-win!

 

[doubleh]

I use an old tooth brush.
It's free. I'm a cheap skate.
Win-win!

I'm with you and I'm also an OLD cheap skate. I learned to clean a 22 rimfire long before either of the options showed up. It worked then and still works just as well now as it does on every other firearm I own or have owned. It does take a very slight amount of elbow grease to do which may be a turn off to some.

 

[340PD]

Non Chlorinated break cleaner has never done any damage to any of my semi auto guns. I remove the grips that are wooden or slide a rubber glove over them but generally spray cleaners are used on specific areas and even then on an occasional basis. Regardless of the solvent I always cover the laser with a bit of blue masking tape,
Most of my friends that bought ultra sonic cleaners have sold them as they found they were more work than they were worth.

 

[LoonWulf]

I'm with you and I'm also an OLD cheap skate. I learned to clean a 22 rimfire long before either of the options showed up. It worked then and still works just as well now as it does on every other firearm I own or have owned. It does take a very slight amount of elbow grease to do which may be a turn off to some.

I do that on my semis when the guts get chrunchy enough to require a full breakdown....at which point I do my polishing for trigger pull also lol.
Otherwise, spraying the guts out with break clean is a good way to limit the need for a full breakdown. I've only had 3 poly pistols, and this canik is the first I've tried it on, but on metal guns I didn't even remove the grips unless I was gonna soak the action.

 

[rskent]

I don't know anything about these so what's your preferred method?

I prefer to not get stressed out about little bits of crud that don’t affect the guns performance.

If I have been polishing parts or otherwise working on the gun, I use break free blast or whatever the wifey picks up at Walmart’s. Don’t want polishing compound floating around in there. Otherwise it’s a rag, tooth brush, or Q tip.