Gunscrubber...

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No, I'd pay 'em $6 not to have to play Simon Says for pocket change.

I'll be 59 next week and have worked since I was 14. Full-time since '74. Haven't had a car payment since '86 or a house payment since - jeez - I can't remember - '96 or '98? I waste money and still live off half my income and I'm just a lowly state human services worker. All those years of regular saving and collecting interest instead of paying it have finally paid big time. Well, big time for a working stiff.

John
 
A lot more heat than light in some of the posts on this thread. Thanks to atblis for posting MSDS.

Summary for non-MSDS readers:
1. Old Gunscrubber=Chlorinated=Trichloroethylene. I have an old can I must have bought 15 or 20 years ago. I only use it to clean the inside of my Ruger .22 auto. Trichloroethylene is pretty harsh stuff, typically melts plastics etc, and is known to be carcinogenic. It used to be widely used as an industrial solvent but now most industry safety people either ban it or watch it very carefully.
2. New Gunscrubber=non-chlorinated=Hexane and Isopropyl Alchohol. Still strong stuff but Hexane is not seen as the health threat that Trichlor is. No personal experience on how it interacts with plastic or wood finish, but I wouldn't let it touch the stocks of a gun I cared about.
3. Brake Cleaner = a generic name for a strong cleaning solvent, that you won't know for sure what is in it without reading that manufacturer's MSDS. Trichlor was popular in the old days, dunno if anyone still sells it what with product liability. One popular brand is mostly Acetone with a little methanol and a very little MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Very strong stuff. Another is mostly Heptane with some ethanol. Another says "petroleum solvent" and alcohol -- petroleum solvent leaves it pretty open, doesn't it?

The MSDS of many of these products shows chemicals that would remind you of paint thinner or even stripper, so gun stock finishes beware.

If you have worked a lot with solvents, you probably know what you are doing, take your chances.

If you haven't -- please use any of these products carefully, even the milder ones may damage finishes. And none of them are good to breathe a lot of fumes.....

My personal recommendation is to save gun scrubber, or acetone (I always have some around) or similar tough solvents, for "metal only" situations and only use them when milder solvents like Hoppe's #9 or the like just aren't up to the job.
 
Maybe I am the odd-man out by *not* liking Gun Scrubber, at least not for regular cleaning? A stiff bristle brush and Hoppe's #9 seems to get the gunk out of the action just fine without the cleaner getting in keep-out areas.
 
Don't know about the Gun Scrubber.... but their Bore Scrubber is the most caustic, wicked nasty gun cleaning fluid I've ever used. I have a big spray bottle of it that will last a loooong time, as I only use it to clean really dirty bores.

and yes..... I were butyl gloves when using the stuff.
 
You mean I shouldn't have used it to get the Gorilla Glue off my fingers?

I guess if the nitrobenzene in the old Hoppe's formula hasn't killed a bunch of us yet, something else will. Maybe my father would have lived longer if he'd worn gloves. Oh wait, he'll be 88 in January. :)

Just kidding. But I survived football in the '50s when helmets didn't have face guards and kids could play with cherry bombs and fun stuff. And I never shot my eye out.

John
 
i use, and like it very much. primarily, i use it on my polymer pistols, but it does make it to the innards of my rifles occasionally. i always buy the synthetic safe style. i try to be very careful whith all chemicals around the wood of any gun. nothing worse than haveing the finish of a nice gun messed up by chemicals.
 
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