dasmi
Member
Anyone know of a good gunsmith in Colorado Springs? I have an SP101 I'd like to have the hammer bobbed on.
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Gunsmith in Colorado Springs?
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morcey2
Member
I don't know any gunsmiths that do that sort of thing, but when we lived on the north end of Nevada Ave just off I-25 about 20 years ago, there were quite a few establishments in the area where you could get hammered and ....
ok, I'll leave it there.
(sorry, just had to.)
dasmi
Member
Whoops. Fixed that typo.
Coltdriver
Member
www.hickmanrifles.com
I had him ream a CZ 550 to rechamber it to a custom 6.5X55 chamber. He did a great job.
I had him ream a CZ 550 to rechamber it to a custom 6.5X55 chamber. He did a great job.
Zeke/PA
Member
Take a ride to Trinidad.
One of those kids at TSJC would be glad to solve your problem.
One of those kids at TSJC would be glad to solve your problem.
J-Bar
Member
4v 50 Gary is the moderator of the Blackpowder Forum and as I recall he is a student at the Gunsmithing School in Trinidad, Colo. You might send him a personal message about contacts.
Todd Lockburner is up in Black forest but is top notch. He has done work on two of my rifles and is timely and fair on his prices. And a heck of a great guy.
Zeke/PA
Member
Of course, I don't know how it is now but when I was there, the Instructers REALLY had their stuff together. Bill Prator, Louie Mrace and Jim Wilson.
Outside work was welcomed as it gave us all a perpecstive as to what was going on.
Things have changed though and it's no longer a custom Rifle dynasty.
I'm sure the "instructer" detail is still first class though!
Outside work was welcomed as it gave us all a perpecstive as to what was going on.
Things have changed though and it's no longer a custom Rifle dynasty.
I'm sure the "instructer" detail is still first class though!
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I'm not a dremel man, but I've used it for polishing things. That said, you can bob it with a dremel and then file it smooth. Save yourself the $25-50.
BTW, you could take it down to TSJC, but they'll do the same thing that was suggested above (I graduated from there in May 2014).
I'd use a black marker to darken the spot the cut will go. Then I'd used a machinist square (or any square for that matter) to draw a perpendicular line across it. Put the hammer into a vise and with thhe dremel cut-off blade cut off ahead of the line. Then file it down slowly until the line is met.
BTW, you could take it down to TSJC, but they'll do the same thing that was suggested above (I graduated from there in May 2014).
I'd use a black marker to darken the spot the cut will go. Then I'd used a machinist square (or any square for that matter) to draw a perpendicular line across it. Put the hammer into a vise and with thhe dremel cut-off blade cut off ahead of the line. Then file it down slowly until the line is met.
J-Bar
Member
I have never owned a gun with a bobbed hammer.
Removing the hammer spur will of course reduce the mass of the hammer. Is there any concern that the lighter hammer will fail to ignite primers?
Removing the hammer spur will of course reduce the mass of the hammer. Is there any concern that the lighter hammer will fail to ignite primers?
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J-Bar brings up a good point. Joe Hobby and his clan used to butcher S&W or Colt revolvers by bobbing them. Some went so far as to drill them out so as to lighten them further. Of course, ignition suffered.
The solution is to test the firearm with the type of ammunition intended to be used with it. If it doesn't go bang, then fit a new hammer or switch to ammunition that will fire reliably in it. It costs money but that's the trade-off for a lighter hammer.
Personally, I hate bobbed hammers. My first Python had one and I immediately bought a replacement hammer which I fittted. The Python was $300 plus tax and the hammer was another $50.
Finally, there is a business perspective to gunsmithing. A gunsmith may accept the job in the pursuit of generating revenue. Thus (s)he will take the job whether it is in the interest of the client or not. Other gunsmiths will reject the job and explain why. I recently declined working on a gun because what the customer wanted was not worth the work/costs involved. If a gun is worth only $150, why put $600 of work into it when its completed value will not return a yield on investment? That is, the customer is throwing good money after bad. There was no sentimental value attached to the firearm (grand dad's gun type stuff) so why bother?
The solution is to test the firearm with the type of ammunition intended to be used with it. If it doesn't go bang, then fit a new hammer or switch to ammunition that will fire reliably in it. It costs money but that's the trade-off for a lighter hammer.
Personally, I hate bobbed hammers. My first Python had one and I immediately bought a replacement hammer which I fittted. The Python was $300 plus tax and the hammer was another $50.
Finally, there is a business perspective to gunsmithing. A gunsmith may accept the job in the pursuit of generating revenue. Thus (s)he will take the job whether it is in the interest of the client or not. Other gunsmiths will reject the job and explain why. I recently declined working on a gun because what the customer wanted was not worth the work/costs involved. If a gun is worth only $150, why put $600 of work into it when its completed value will not return a yield on investment? That is, the customer is throwing good money after bad. There was no sentimental value attached to the firearm (grand dad's gun type stuff) so why bother?
osprey176
Member
I suggest you take a little drive north to Lakewood.Tyler at The Gun Room is as good as any gunsmith as I have ever dealt with.
Howard Roark
Member
Lightened hammers/strikers need heavier springs to maintain consistent ignition or softer primers. Plus power springs are used to bring the kinetic energy of the hammer back to the point that it was before the mass was reduced. Albert was a smart man.
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