Hammer Stop

[noller]

I have a question concerning Richards No 1 conversions. I am a machinist and have been asked to build a conversion for a gentleman, the question I have is that when the hammer is in the down position (when being fired) was all of the hammer weight put on the firing pin? I know that some revolvers used a hammer stop and was curious about it. It would seem that the firing pin would take a heck of a beating with all the hammer inertia impacking it alone. I have the coversion ring finished and this is the last concern that I have.

Thanks

 

[Old Fuff]

They didn't have a hammer stop as such, but the hammer's front edge would strike the matching shoulder in the frame. If you remove the barrel and cylinder you will see this as you lower the hammer. In some cases a firing pin was located on the hammer nose, and in that case it was adjusted for length during final assembly if that was necessary. In other instances the firing pin was in the conversion ring, and the hammer nose was adjusted. As a rule of thumb, the parts (hammer, frame, etc.) were close enough so that adjustment wasn't necessary.

 

[noller]

Thank you for the info. I am sort of new at this but it looks like it would be a fun hobby (SASS). One other question if I may? Is putting a wider hammer (thumb area) on a hammer allowed under the SASS rules. I see that you can't use a different style hammer (bisley) but it doesn't say anything about modifying the hammer that you have. My thinking is to make a dragoon a bit easier to cock, I guess my thumb isn't the proper length.
Thanks

 

[Old Fuff]

You have me there, but I believe they frown on external modifications while allowing internal tuning of the action. I suggest that you check with them at:

www.sassnet.com

That said, you do not need the kind of mainsprings installed in cap & ball revolvers to set off a modern primer. Unless you plan to use the same gun as a cap & ball you can substantially lighten that mainspring and no one at SASS will get a bit upset.