Hand ax/hatchet reviews.

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It might be a fine tool, but like many so called survival multi tools it might not be very good at anything.
You said it's in your BOB so I'd just encourage you to prove it out before you count on something that may not be suited to your needs.
We all have that drawer or box with the greatest knife, fishing lure, tool, holster or whatever gadget at least I do.

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Encourage me to prove it out?
Do you assume that I haven't?
You think that I just said, "this looks cool", and tossed in the bag?
I'm not the "Jungle Master", but I am experienced in the bush.
Your statements are a bit condescending.

Ron was a highly respected survival instructor.
(He died a few years ago.)
This design was put through quite a few tests in the wilderness by several different people before it was offered for sale.
It proved itself enough to be put into limited production by Top Knives.
The ATAX was designed and used by a master outdoors man.
Buck knives adopted one of Ron's designs and markets it as the Hoodlum.
Simply stated, it really does work in the venue it was designed to occupy.
I don't consider it an end-all for wilderness survival but could be a useful tool that is light enough to have on you when disaster strikes.
I prefer more conventional designs for most of my wilderness needs but, like I said, it is a unique design that appeals to me.

The survival kit that I carried in the helicopter when flying the bush in Alaska weighed about 70 pounds.
In that kit was a full sized ax.

Obviously, the ATAX isn't for everyone.

I like to at least try something out before I doubt it.
The ATXT does work as advertised.


Steve
 
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Have you used that Guardian Survival Gear 3 Function Hatchet ?

At 10 bucks I'd be afraid that its made out of ZAMAK.
It's cheap, soft steel. Dulls quick, sharpens quick. It's small and really only useful for splitting up smaller pieces of kindling wood by the fireside.
 
Well Steve, I'm sorry that i have offended your wilderness skills but the condition of the tool in the photos nor the description you laid out lent much to you having actually put it through the chopping paces.
If you ever go back to AK I'd stick with your original equipment.
 
Well Steve, I'm sorry that i have offended your wilderness skills but the condition of the tool in the photos nor the description you laid out lent much to you having actually put it through the chopping paces.
If you ever go back to AK I'd stick with your original equipment.
I should have considered the appearance of the one I photographed.
Having briefly played with one on several occasions, I liked it.
However, I couldn't afford one.
When I had the chance to get an unused one of the few that were made with a camouflage pattern instead of the standard all black, I traded for it.

It wasn't my wilderness skills in question, it is the disregard for something you obviously have no experience with and suggested that I had not actually tested it.
There is little chance that I will ever relive my seven years in the outback of Alaska nor the months in various jungles around the world.

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In Alaska, IFR means I Follow Rivers. Flying in loose formation with a Bell 206 along the Noatak river above the Arctic Circle.


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Silver Fox on Uninhabited Unga Island in the Aleutian chain.

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Posing with a Bear shot by Craig Boddington at Canoe Bay just south west of Cold Bay.

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North Face of Mt. McKinley.

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We Were treated Like Mushrooms by the BLM management, so instead of Air Force One, We Had Mushroom One.

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Bear Encounter Eagle River BLM Camp. One of 84 we had at this camp.

As I attempted to articulate in several posts, this is not my first line equipment, but a novelty item I find interesting.
I'm into unusual knives and do use them.
See the discussion of my belt buckle knife in the boot knife thread.
This ATAX sits in my BOB as a backup for my other equipment.

But I'm obviously not the back woods expert in this exchange, so I'll just have to say we have to agree to disagree.
If you ever stoop to trying one for real, and then know what you are talking about, we can further this exchange.

Steve
 
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I'd really try that before you need it in direct comparison to a hatchet with handle mounted through the head. I don't believe you will be able to get paracord to tighten up enough to make a usable tool.
Ok last words on this.

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ATAX properly strapped to a makeshift handle. (Picture from Hoodswoods forum)

Although it is not a beginner’s tool, very experienced members carry it and use it.
One of it’s strong points is its size. Many of these guys carry them in the pockets of a day pack.

Go to the discussion forum at survival.com and do a search in the Bladeware section for ATAX.
You will find several pages of pictures and comments devoted to the ATAX.

About the design itself:
One of the Hoodlums asked Ron Hood about the ATAX being so thick and why the blade grind was not convex.

Here is his reply:

(Ron Hood Post about the review of the ATAX, Hoodswoods forum 05/21/10)

Nice review Scott! Thanks for your comments.

On the edge geometry... I tried a thinner edge, flat grind and even a convex on the tool. I ended up with what you see for a reason. First, the tool is not meant to replace an ax for all tasks however when you chop with an ax the blade bites deep and in that way removes a good sized hunk of wood with each stroke. Part of the reason it removes the wood is because you leverage the handle up and down when the edge strikes and holds. This tool has a much weaker handle as it is only attached via zip ties or cordage. With a better bite you decrease the life of the handle significantly. In the end, the thinner edge cut less wood than the current edge over a given amount of time since you need to replace the handle.

Another thing, Bone... This edge will stay sharp even when quartering big game like Elk, Moose or Bear. The thin edge tends to lose it's bite and once again it frequently lodges in the bone and cannot be removed with any ease. I remember chopping the hip loose with the thin edge version and having the blade slide right into the socket and jam. I was able to remove it but I had to retie the handle. The thick edge never does that.

This tool has seen a lot of service in theater. Both Afghanistan and Iraq as well as many undisclosed locations. It sees a lot of use on car doors, hoods, steel cables and more. No thin edge would survive that.

The thin edge is also not as efficient when fleshing a hide. This edge is twice as fast.

The design you hold was the result of a decade of testing and alternatives. There are over a thousand of them out there working hard every day. And many more just languishing in a kit someplace. If someone wants to cut wood for a structure, like a cabin or buck a cord or work as a daily chopper, it's the wrong tool. If someone wants a tool that can handle it all and survive, it is the right tool. The edge is like it is for a reason.

Thank you for your comments though!

Ron


Here are a few youtube ATAX reviews:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4bDiHGyJIw

www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqTnPbjdF1I

www.youtube.com/watch?v=iN0Rd8tGGjI

My ATAX is a useful tool to be included in a light BOB.
As Ron intended, it is not a first choice over an ax, but it a real chopping tool to carry in the woods that you will have with you if you need it.

Unless there is a realistic question on this subject, I won’t respond again.

Steve
 
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This is my favorite hatchet bar none: I just checked current proces and could not afford to buy one now.
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2nd hatchet

This little bag axe is for walking around with while doing chores.
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Has anyone tried the Stanley Fubar Demolition Bar as an axe?

It looks like it could do a decent job chopping. I'd just wonder about the pry bar piece at the end thumping your forearm when you strike something.

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Great writeup!

I've used Estwing hammers for a long time, and good experiences led me to buying a 14-inch (maybe 12-inch?) Camper's Axe and a BE 16-inch tomahawk. I am very happy with both considering what I paid versus what I got.

In an effort to reduce the vibration, I wrapped the handles with two layers of paracord, and it helps a lot. I purchased some neopreme and polyurethane that I intend to wrap around the handle and then wrap a single layer of paracord, to see if it further reduces vibration. Depending on the outcome, it might lead to me wondering if removing the "shock-reducing" handle and replacing it with my own material would be of benefit.

The edge that came on the BE Tomahawk seemed like they started to shape a convex edge and then decided not to. I've been meaning to put a convex edge on it and sharpen the rear point, but with all this procrastinating that I am doing it leaves very little time for anything else.:p
 
The one time I tried to use the Estwing 26" Camper's Axe to chop a log, the vibration was so bad, I gave up and got the 16" electric chain saw.

Also, the Estwing bites deep but it doesn't throw chips very well. With a decent full-sized axe I can just chop and I don't have to put a lot of effort into making angled cuts, the chips just fly, for the most part. But with the Estwing Camper's Axe I have to be very purposeful about making angled cuts or I just end up slicing the log over and over and over. The wood looks like its been through a Ronco slicer - but no progress as far as actually chopping through it.

I have used it in combination with a machete to clear brush, but I initially bought it because the axe is fairly light weight, I can wield it with one hand and the length is perfect distance for putting someone down without them getting close enough to bite you.
 
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