Handloading/Reloading 7.62x54R ammo

[35 Whelen]

Slugging the bore is a tad bit more complicated than that. Here's how I do it:

First find a lead ball or sinker of suitable diameter. I use #0 buck but have to slightly flatten it out to increase the diameter. If you have any 12 ga. 00 buck loads, cut one open and you'll have enough to do several rifles.

Next, stand the rifle vertical with the butt solidly resting on the floor. I do this and lightly clamp the forearm/barrel in a vise using wooden jaws.

Now, lightly oil the lead ball or sinker you intend to use with something like Break Free CLP. Just a light coating is all it takes. Set the lead ball on the muzzle and begin tapping it in the muzzle with something like a brass-faced hammer or mallet. If you're really careful, you can use a steel headed hammer, but don't whack the muzzle of your rifle!
Now the lead ball should be started in the muzzle. At this point I use a 6" piece of 1/4" oak dowel and a 2 lb. sledge to tap the lead ball down in the muzzle as far as the dowel will allow. Some people don't like to use wood, but I've never had a single problem. If it bothers you, use a piece of 1/4" brass rod....but NO STEEL.

By now, the lead ball should be pretty well formed to the inside of the barrel. At this point, 90% of the time, I can push the ball the remainder of the way through the barrel with a 36" piece of 1/4" oak dowel. Sometimes I have to tap it if there's a tight spot in the barrel. Again, if you're not comfortable using a wooden dowel, a piece of 1/4" brass rod will work perfectly.

However you choose to do so, push the ball through the barrel until if falls out of the chamber and onto the bolt face. Carefully take it out and measure it preferably with a micrometer.

Two things that are important:
#1- Do NOT use a little piss-ant light weight hammer to try to knock the ball through. You'll wear yourself out and if you use a wooden dowel, you stand a much greater chance of splintering it whacking it repeatedly with a lightweight hammer than you do using a few heavy blows with a nice heavy one.
#2- If you're only going to shoot jacketed bullets, it's not near as critical that you slug your bore. No harm in it, but every Mosin I've slugged was .310" to .312" and required a jacketed bullet in that range. If you ever decide to shoot cast (which is about all I shoot in my milsurps), then it's nice to know the groove diameter of you rifles bore so you can size the bullets .001" or so over groove diameter.

Good luck!
35W

 

[J_McLeod]

Slugging the bore is a tad bit more complicated than that. Here's how I do it:

First find a lead ball or sinker of suitable diameter. I use #0 buck but have to slightly flatten it out to increase the diameter. If you have any 12 ga. 00 buck loads, cut one open and you'll have enough to do several rifles.

Next, stand the rifle vertical with the butt solidly resting on the floor. I do this and lightly clamp the forearm/barrel in a vise using wooden jaws.

Now, lightly oil the lead ball or sinker you intend to use with something like Break Free CLP. Just a light coating is all it takes. Set the lead ball on the muzzle and begin tapping it in the muzzle with something like a brass-faced hammer or mallet. If you're really careful, you can use a steel headed hammer, but don't whack the muzzle of your rifle!
Now the lead ball should be started in the muzzle. At this point I use a 6" piece of 1/4" oak dowel and a 2 lb. sledge to tap the lead ball down in the muzzle as far as the dowel will allow. Some people don't like to use wood, but I've never had a single problem. If it bothers you, use a piece of 1/4" brass rod....but NO STEEL.

By now, the lead ball should be pretty well formed to the inside of the barrel. At this point, 90% of the time, I can push the ball the remainder of the way through the barrel with a 36" piece of 1/4" oak dowel. Sometimes I have to tap it if there's a tight spot in the barrel. Again, if you're not comfortable using a wooden dowel, a piece of 1/4" brass rod will work perfectly.

However you choose to do so, push the ball through the barrel until if falls out of the chamber and onto the bolt face. Carefully take it out and measure it preferably with a micrometer.

Two things that are important:
#1- Do NOT use a little piss-ant light weight hammer to try to knock the ball through. You'll wear yourself out and if you use a wooden dowel, you stand a much greater chance of splintering it whacking it repeatedly with a lightweight hammer than you do using a few heavy blows with a nice heavy one.
#2- If you're only going to shoot jacketed bullets, it's not near as critical that you slug your bore. No harm in it, but every Mosin I've slugged was .310" to .312" and required a jacketed bullet in that range. If you ever decide to shoot cast (which is about all I shoot in my milsurps), then it's nice to know the groove diameter of you rifles bore so you can size the bullets .001" or so over groove diameter.

Good luck!
35W

Very helpful. What would you do differently to slug a pistol barrel?

So far I've only loaded jacketed bullets. But the cost saving from cast bullets are attractive and I'm considering cast bullets as well.

 

[35 Whelen]

Very helpful. What would you do differently to slug a pistol barrel?

So far I've only loaded jacketed bullets. But the cost saving from cast bullets are attractive and I'm considering cast bullets as well.

With a pistol I would clamp the whole thing in a vise if it were a revolver. If an automatic, I'd remove the barrel and clamp it in a vise. Other than that, same principle.

Cast bullets are MUCH cheaper especially if you cast your own. I'm to the point that I shoot cast exclusively out of my handguns....all five of them. And out of my rifles I shoot all cast except jacketed for elk and deer over 100 yds.

35W

 

[J_McLeod]

With a pistol I would clamp the whole thing in a vise if it were a revolver. If an automatic, I'd remove the barrel and clamp it in a vise. Other than that, same principle.

Cast bullets are MUCH cheaper especially if you cast your own. I'm to the point that I shoot cast exclusively out of my handguns....all five of them. And out of my rifles I shoot all cast except jacketed for elk and deer over 100 yds.

35W

Do you have any issues with leading? My primary range gun is an XD9. I'm reading old threads now trying to find out more about shooting cast bullets. Just starting, so it'll be a while before I start casting my own, if I do.

 

[35 Whelen]

No issues with leading at all. A properly sized lead bullet of the correct alloy won't lead.

Go here: Cast Boolit website. TONS of info.
35W

 

[J_McLeod]

Thanks.

 

[jcwit]

No issues with leading at all. A properly sized lead bullet of the correct alloy won't lead.

After years and years of casting and shooting .32 ACP, 40 S&W, 45 ACP, .30 cal. carbine, and 7.62 x 39, I do wish I could find the secret to 9 mm and no leading. Thank goodness its not hard to clean out.

 

[donkee]

Graff & Sons also list 7.62 x 54 brass as in stock.

a dollar a pop is pretty expensive for the Lapua. I wish they would the the Prvi back in.

I have a couple leads on 54R brass. If they check out I'll let you know.

They didn't check out. I have no idea where to get reasonably priced 54R brass.

 

[winchester1886]

I set out to develop a lead bullet load for my 7.62x54 just for the fun of it.I have a Lyman mold that is a 190gr spitzer w/ gas check and sized to .311. I used Winchester brass Winchester LR primer,26.0grs of IMR 4198. It's shoot's a good group at 75 yards I didn't test it any further out than that.

 

[35 Whelen]

I set out to develop a lead bullet load for my 7.62x54 just for the fun of it.I have a Lyman mold that is a 190gr spitzer w/ gas check and sized to .311. I used Winchester brass Winchester LR primer,26.0grs of IMR 4198. It's shoot's a good group at 75 yards I didn't test it any further out than that.

Good jpb! If you have any Red Dot, try 13.0 grs. of it with that Lyman bullet. I'll almost guarantee it'll be accurate.
35W

 

[Wylie1]

If you buy Lee Dies to reload this cartridge, for some reason the Decapping/Resizing die has a .308" stem.

I wrote them an email asking why they would sell a .308 sizer with a 7.62 x 54r dies set and they sent me a .311 expander/de-capper free of charge.
I have a 91/30 as well (counter bore cut off and recrowned) and my best loads were 48 grains of Hodgdons 4350, both Sierra Match Kings #2314 and Hornady's #3131 did about 2" groups from 100 yards out.

If you are going to hunt with what you are reloading stick to the Sierras because the Hornadys are FMJs.

I forgot about the primers, they are Federals large rifle primers and Lapua Brass.

 

[FROGO207]

If you are looking for OF brass I have had OK luck finding it on GunBroker in the past. The key to it is put in your max price you are willing to spend and let the proxy bid do it's job. I win some, I loose some. I recently got some for .40 a casing and got 135 of them. You just have to be patient and the brass will show up there for you to bid on. You might also place a WTB add in the trading post here. Another member may have some to sell you at a deal.

 

[4895]

I have reloaded this round with much success. I would suggest that you buy 100 .308 bullets and load those first over IMR 4895 or Varget. .308 bullets are cheaper and much easier to find locally with the weights you want. I used 150 gr Sierra Matchking bullets with great success. You should slug the barrel to 'know' whats going on in there, but it isn't necessary. If you don't have a powder book yet, I would suggest the Sierra book. The loads listed on the 'low' side, are very low yield and the rifle kicks like a .22. Have fun and BE SAFE.