Harpers Ferry Percussion Pistol Review

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I just got it last week, and it will be some time before I can get to the range.
I snagged it on GB.com for $400 plus shipping. They don't come up very often, and I've wanted one for years, so when this one appeared I jumped on it.


I also only have some .58 cal minie balls on hand and want to get to the local black powder shop to see if they have any round balls to fit.

I also have a reproduction 1855 pistol carbine, and the one time I shot it, I couldn't hit anything using minie balls. It simply became a wall hanger, but I've been told that patched round balls are the way to go in pistols of that large a caliber.

Cheers
 
forward observer:

Compare this picture of an original in the NRA Museum:

http://www.nramuseum.com/umbraco/ImageGen.ashx?image=/media/9502/00189_r.jpg

Notice that the profile of the reinforced cock (the "hammer") is considerably different -- more detailed -- than your Pedersoli replica. Also look at the frizzen spring, and the bevel around the edge of the lockplate. Another difference is that the pommel of the original is more flared. It appears that Pedersoli took some shortcuts in these areas.

The example in the NRA Museum has a steel ramrod.

If Pedersoli makes an updated (more authentic) flint version, these things need to be addressed, along with the caliber and the rifling issue.
 
forward observer:

Compare this picture of an original in the NRA Museum:

http://www.nramuseum.com/umbraco/ImageGen.ashx?image=/media/9502/00189_r.jpg

Notice that the profile of the reinforced cock (the "hammer") is considerably different -- more detailed -- than your Pedersoli replica. Also look at the frizzen spring, and the bevel around the edge of the lockplate. Another difference is that the pommel of the original is more flared. It appears that Pedersoli took some shortcuts in these areas.

The example in the NRA Museum has a steel ramrod.

If Pedersoli makes an updated (more authentic) flint version, these things need to be addressed, along with the caliber and the rifling issue.
These things are true. A side by side comparison of the two guns show a number of subtle and not so subtle differences in the overall design.

While this is a detractor, there is nobody else out there making these types of guns. Fortunately, while they might not look totally authentic, they tend to make excellent shooters. :)
 
Update: converting the percussion Harpers Ferry to flint

There was a discussion earlier in this thread about the feasibility of converting this latest Pedersoli product (the percussion Harpers Ferry pistol) back to the original flintlock design. The reason for doing this is that Pedersoli's longtime flint version is in .58 cal., and rifled, which is not authentic.

I talked to the Dixie Gun Works representative at the N-SSA Spring Nationals, a week ago, about this subject. According to her, the possibility of a flint version in .54 cal. has in fact been discussed with Pedersoli. Pedersoli is willing to produce these, but only if a distributor can be found to pre-order at least 200 units. Dixie, at least, is not prepared to go out on a limb to that extent. Prospects, then, for a factory flint version in .54 are dim.

So I decided to take the plunge and do the conversion myself, on a pair of the guns. (One of them has already been received.) It is very much doable. The following are some of the details.

First of all, the Pedersoli flint lock, which Dixie has in stock for $165, is a direct drop-in fit. The percussion drum simply unscrews from the barrel (use a decent-sized wrench).

Now, we come to the most difficult part of the job (which is really not that difficult). The threaded hole for the percussion drum must be filled, and a vent hole drilled. Pedersoli makes a vent hole liner which is a perfect fit in the hole -- threaded M8-1.25 metric. If only it was that easy. When this vent hole liner is installed, the vent hole is not concentric with the pan in the flint lock (it's slightly high and to the right). The only alternative is to make your own plug out of an automotive-grade M8-1.25 bolt, and drill a vent hole in it at the appropriate place. I'm using a bolt on which the threading does not go the full length, so that it can bottom out properly. For the length of the threaded portion, I'm copying the removed percussion drum. Then I'm making a screwdriver slot, and filing the outside surface of the plug flush with the barrel. The final step will be to center-punch and drill the vent hole, at approximately the 8 o'clock position in the plug.

The beauty of this is that it is all reversible. You can just switch the locks, and replace the vent plug with the percussion drum. You therefore can have either a flint or percussion gun, and change between them at will.

One thing that should be noted is that when Pedersoli made the percussion version, he kept the outside barrel profile of the .58 cal. rifled flint version. That means that the barrel wall thickness is greater than that of the original .54 cal. guns. The barrel is extra thick and heavy.

Regarding the ramrod -- the ramrod that comes with the gun is made of lightweight wood. There have been reports that it swells when wet, and sticks in the channel. In any case, I would not trust it mechanically for heavy-duty use. Remember, some of the originals had steel ramrods. Fortunately, replacing the ramrod with steel is easy. There are musket cleaning kits sold by Civil War sutlers that include 5/16" diameter cleaning rod sections. Put the proper brass tip on the threaded end and cut the section to length. Perfect fit! (You can also take the brass ramrod tip off and use the rod with worms, bullet pullers, cleaning jags, etc.)
 
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I do not know why the Italians persist in making "reproductions" of nonexistent originals.
The .44 "Navy" is the most common, but there are a lot of others.

I guess it is the bottom line, they sell, whether authentic or not.
 
I've never posted photos before, and I don't know how to do it. I may take pictures and email them to somebody who is willing to post them on this board.
 
At the last N-SSA Nationals, there were aftermarket brass ramrods for sale. I bought one. Having said that, I found mine to be completely inaccurate. As in unable to even hit paper at 50 yards...in the hands of the shooter who took 2nd place in 50 yard revolver.
 
At the last N-SSA Nationals, there were aftermarket brass ramrods for sale. I bought one. Having said that, I found mine to be completely inaccurate. As in unable to even hit paper at 50 yards...in the hands of the shooter who took 2nd place in 50 yard revolver.

Yeah, I can't hit a damn thing with my ramrods either. Doesn't matter what they are made of, plastic, steel, aluminum, wood, fiberglass, you name it... . I did find however that they work VERY well for their intended purpose of ramming a ball down-bore.:D
 
I am not sure why you would try to hit a target at 50 yards with a smoothbore muzzle loading pistol that was probably not intended to hit a torso of a person at 25 yards. Load it up with bits of whatever you have on hand, such as shot, oak slivers, pebbles, or broken glass and see how it does..... Just saying, if you want to be realistic.... Were you shooting a smoothbore revolver?
 
I am not sure why you would try to hit a target at 50 yards with a smoothbore muzzle loading pistol that was probably not intended to hit a torso of a person at 25 yards. Load it up with bits of whatever you have on hand, such as shot, oak slivers, pebbles, or broken glass and see how it does..... Just saying, if you want to be realistic.... Were you shooting a smoothbore revolver?
No, that kind of "ammunition" would certainly not be "realistic" for this type of handgun, from the era it was used in. The military would have used paper cartridges which were just like smaller versions of musket cartridges, loaded with a lead ball. That stuff also wouldn't have been used by most civillians.

It's an old wives tail that our ancestors would have just shoved any random thing down a smootbore's barrel and fired it. Such an act could easily destroy an expensive weapon, and simply wasn't done much at all during the 18th-19th centuries. These people weren't cavemen for God's sake! :)
 
I built a Harpers Ferry flintlock kit a while ago...and it turned out to be a handsome gun. Looking at lots of pics of original guns convinced me that the stock was WAY too thick, and doing this work now makes the thicker grip contour of the Pedersoli replicas really stick out. With this area trimmed down so the wood then swells out into the cap the gun does feel much better in the hand and just looks so good.:)

Was planning to build another one so I'd have the proper brace of pistols but the prices went through the roof and I was waiting for them to come back down. Sorry to say, I'm about to conclude that they're not ever going to get back to $200 so I'm probably out of luck for a brace. Still love my one though!
 
AlexanderA

It's easy to post photos. Just go to some site like Photobucket, download your photos into your account that you set up, then move them in whatever format you want to right here on THR. I even have their app on my phone where I can send my cell phone photos directly to my Photobucket account.

Would really like to see your flint conversion of the Harper's Ferry pistol.
 
Regarding the unfinished kits of these guns (both the percussion version and the .58 cal. flint version), you have to look at the price differential compared to the finished guns. Dixie Gun Works has the following prices: the percussion version is $450 finished, and $350 in kit form. The old flint version is $565 finished, and $432.50 as a kit.

You save anywhere from $100 to $132 by buying a kit. But, there's a lot of hand finishing work involved. Unless you really like doing this, you're probably better off letting Pedersoli's workers in Italy do it. (Figure your hourly wage rate.)

My project guns are costing me $615 each. For that, I'm getting interchangeable flint and percussion locks, and more authenticity than the factory flint version provides. The amount of work I have to do is really minimal.
 
Progress report: I have discovered that the bore at the extreme rear of the barrel is considerably smaller in diameter than the rest of the bore. As a result, the ramrod will not bottom out against the breech plug. The percussion drum (and the replacement flint vent) lead into this small-diameter "powder chamber" area. Whether this will cause problems, I don't know.

Removing the fake "case hardening" on the flint lock was easy using Naval Jelly.

When installed, the frizzen on the flint lock binds against the barrel. I had to do some grinding with a Dremel tool on the inside edge of the frizzen to get it to function correctly.
 
This thread seems to switch randomly between smooth bore and rifled pistols. There is a big difference in what and how each variety shoots but since reality doesn't seem to enter this conversation I will just slide out of the side door..........
 
Informative review and follow-ups

YOu did a thorough job
 
Further update on the flintlock conversion

I did some further research on the correct location of the touch hole. It seems that the recommended height is just above the top edge of the pan (the so-called "sunset" location). (This was somewhat surprising to me.) The Pedersoli factory vent liner gives this correct height, although it's a bit more forward, horizontally, than I would wish. Still, the touch hole is within the front edge of the pan. Therefore, I have decided to go with that rather than make my own. This saves a lot of work. The Pedersoli vent liners are available from VTI Replica Gun Parts (stock #USA 475, $6 for one, $15 for three).

I have also made steel ramrods for both my guns. I used rod sections from the "musket cleaning kit" sold by The Regimental Quartermaster (stock # GUN-90, $29.95). This is a 5/16" diameter rod. For the tip, I used the .50 cal. brass ramrod button from Dixie Gun Works (stock # UA0805, $2.50). Note that you have to use a 10-32 Heli-Coil thread insert to thread the tip on the male end of the cleaning rod section. The ramrod tip is actually threaded 32 TPI, but it has a slightly larger diameter than 10-32. The Heli-Coil is the perfect solution. They are available on ebay if you cannot find that size locally.

I found that the exact length and tightness of the ramrod channel varies between examples of the guns. On my two, the length varied by more than 1/4". Therefore, you have to custom-fit the ramrod to each gun. I used a 5/16" wooden dowel to measure the exact length, and then used a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the rod section to that length. Then I chucked the rod section in a 3/8" drill and used a file and emery cloth to polish the outside, for its full length, until it was a tight, but easy, fit in the ramrod channel. You don't want it to bind, but you don't want it to fall out either.

(The steel ramrod solution applies to the percussion version as well as the flint version.)
 
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