Hate to ask.. but can someone tell me the steps for converting 5.56 to 300blk? Everyo

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taymag

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Ive been shooting 500 already cut/sized blackout brass for a few cycles now that I bought a while back and I have about 1000 5.56 cases I want to convert. Seems like no one has the same info...

I planned on cleaning, using the cut jig (from 300blk talk) with a HF saw, resizing then trimming (tri-way).

What all needs to be done to the primer pockets? And what am I missing?
 
What I did was as follows :

I used a cutoff wheel on my hand grinder and cut the case right where the shoulder met the body, slight deburr, ran through the sizing die without the spindle, and then trimmed it to length. After I finished my reforming, I put the spindle back in the die and FL sized the brass. At that point I was done with nothing needed for the primer pocket unless it was brass with a crimped primer.
 
The way I have done it in the past:
Lube
Resize without decapper
Cut with jig
Resize decap
Trim
Chamfer and debur
 
Search and Google are your friends since this has been discussed many times in may places, do doubt the reason you are getting conflicting info.

You pick a method based on the equipment you have available. Some like to form the brass, ten cut it. Most, I think, do it the other way around. There are advantages and disadvantages to both ways.

I cut first, dirty, just as it comes from the range. Chamfer and deburr to protect my hands and avoid scratches from burrs breaking off in the forming die. Then I wash it, treat with Citric acid and let dry. Next I lube it up and start forming with an RCBS Small Base die. Previously I had a Lee die which doesn't work as well for forming. I wash the brass again to get rid of the lube, trim to final length with a WFT, chamfer, deburr, ream primer pockets and wash it again. (Yes, it does get washed 3 times.) Then it gets tumbled, gauged and sorted. Glad I only have to do it once per casing.

Stick to the known good head stamps and you'll be ok.
 
everyone pretty much covered it, but I would like to add that I "double strike" all of my new convert brass for a more consistent shoulder and trim length(since i trim with a wft which headspaces off the shoulder). When sizing, pull the brass out of the die just enough to rotate it 90 degrees and push in the sizing die again.
 
When I cut down .223 Brass to make 300BLK, I anneal it.
I figure I have removed the previous annealed area (for the most part) when I cut it down.

So.... I cut it, deburr it, anneal it (Tempilaq Method), form it, trim it.... etc

Annealing:
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
 
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