Have a lot of brass I want to sell but don't know how much to ask...

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TexKettering

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I was originally going to start reloading my own brass but it turns out I won't be doing that anymore so I'm looking to sell the brass that I've accumulated. I don't want to give it away, but I'd like to give a good deal to someone who will be able to use it.

It's all once-fired with various headstamps. It hasn't been cleaned but a good tumble will take care of about 98% of the brass as it's in good condition.

Any ideas on how much I should ask for this? Anyone here interested?

Here are some pictures:

Tub of .40. Guess around... 400?
img0276large.jpg


Packed up box full of .40. Lots in there... 500ish?
img0277large.jpg


Tub of 9mm... 400ish?
img0278large.jpg


Some .223... around 250-350ish?
img0279large.jpg


Small box of .38SPC - no clue... 30ish?
img0281large.jpg


Some .45ACP... probably less than a 100?
img0280large.jpg


Thanks for your help!
 
You may want to post your thread in the Trading Post section.
Below are fair prices for what you got.

900 .40S&W $35
900 9mm $30
300 .223 $25
100 45ACP $6
50 .38 spc $5
 
I think you're underestimating your quantities, at least in the USPS box - there's a lot more than 500 in a mid-size Priority mailing box that's reasonably full.
/Bryan
 
I've sold a lot of old brass as I cycle through different cartridges. As with any metal component, much of the value lies in the information and organization.

So don't estimate like you're guessing the number of jelly beans in the jar. Counting is real easy. Take a fifty round brass holder like Frankford's and sort them out fifty at a time, keep a tally. It's a piece of cake. Then you'll KNOW how much there is. An oversized shell holder is best.

Also, cleaning and doing basic prep really helps increase value. Don't prime, as that will limit your ability to ship it.

It also helps if you know if it's once twice or more fired. Once fired is best obviously.

To estimate value, look at the going rate for new brass and for most cut it at least in half. Then compare with what other used brass is selling for in that cartridge and make adjustments. The more common the brass, the less it's going to sell for. Rare brass that has spotty availability on the open market, or very high end brass such as Norma or Lapua, will command a higher price. With the market the way it's been some brass such as .450 Marlin and other Hornady specialties have been near impossible to find new, so you can charge near new prices or more for once fired.
 
Unfortunately I have no other equipment as I really never got into reloading. I was only stocking up brass for when I did make the leap so I'd have to count by hand... :)

I'm going to take this in to work and weigh and see how much it comes out to for a little more accurate figure of my count.

Thanks for the advice everyone. Gives me a good idea of what to ask.
 
When I did inventory work for a company while in college, we used containers to measure large mounds of small items (candies/nuts/bolts etc. at super markets/hardware stores) in addition to using weight calculations (sometimes we used both to cross check).

Fill a soup can (or other container) level and count the number of cases. Then see how many "cans" you have per caliber.

These days, I use Folgers coffee cans as my "soup" can (2.5 lb can - about 800 40S&W cases).
 
900 .40S&W $35
900 9mm $30
300 .223 $25
100 45ACP $6
50 .38 spc $5
Click to expand...

That's way to high. About $25 bucks shipped for all of it would be a good deal for you. If you'll PM me your address I'll get a money out to you.:D
No seriously, I also think you've underestimated your amounts. And those prices are pretty close.
 
Go get a box of your new factory ammunition and take the ammo out, and use the plastic ammo tray that came with the ammo as your counting block. That's what I did. 50 at a time, 1 mark on a sheet of paper, tally. Plastic works better than styrofoam. If you use a plastic tray from a caliber of ammo that is much larger, say .45 for 9mm, you may only have to dunk the tray in and shake it around to come up with a full tray, at least at first. I'd count it, but that's just my opinion. Good luck!
 
Here's what you need for the counting part...

Brass Count By Weight

From jmorris -

9mm, 59.46gr/ea, 117.7cases/#, 8.5#/1000

38spl, 68.06gr/ea, 102.8cases/#, 9.7#/1000

40s&w, 70.1gr/ea, 99.9cases/#, 10#/1000

.357mag, 78.3gr/ea, 89.4cases/#, 11.2#/1000

.45acp, 89.58gr/ea, 78.1cases/#, 12.8#/1000

.223, 95.28gr/ea , 73.5cases/#, 13.6#/1000

.44mag, 114.38gr/ea, 61.2cases/#, 16.3#/1000

50bmg, 865.26gr/ea, 8.1cases/#, 123.5#/1000

All weights are uncleaned fired cases with the primer remaining.

Individual case weights were derived using an average of mixed brass weights (except 50bmg)

So, if you picked up 8#?s of 45 brass: 8# X 78.1cases/# = 625 cases+/-

If you use 1gal ziploc freezer bags to store your brass, each (full) bag contains:

9mm, 15.6#, 1836cases
40s&w, 12.2#, 1219cases
45acp, 11.4#, 890cases
223, 11#, 809cases

or if you use the 5gal bucket method

9MM = 8500-9000 pieces
.40 S&W = 7000-7500 pieces
.45 ACP = 3800-4000 pieces

here is a few more


CASES per POUND:

.380: 145
.357 Sig: 96
.45 GAP: 86
.32: 168
10mm: 96
FN 5.7: 124
.25 acp: 260
.30 Luger: 120
.38 S&W: 120
.38 Super: 104
9mm MAK: 124
.45 Colt: 60
.30-M1: 100
.308: 40
.30-06: 35
7.62x39: 54
.50 AE: 48
.30-30: 52
Click to expand...


This was posted by jmorris a while back and I copied it for future reference.
(This is good stuff, thank you jmorris, sir.)

I wish I had a hundred pounds (or ten) of .357 mag once fired brass all cleaned up and ready to load. :cool: I also wish I was rich instead of so danged good lookin! :scrutiny:

As far as pricing it goes just look down in the -

Trading Post Buy, Sell and Trade: Reloading Components and Gear

Hope this helps you out.


ST

:)
 
Is the 223 brass actual 223 brass and what head stamps or 5.56???

Thanks
Jim
 
Also, cleaning and doing basic prep really helps increase value. Don't prime, as that will limit your ability to ship it.
Click to expand...

Primed brass is considered just like loaded ammo and needs an ORM-D sticker. No Haz-mat BS though.

Justin
 
I'll be making a FS thread in a day or two. I got the weights of all these calibers now. :)

And I should never enter into a "how many gumballs are in this jar?" contest. My counts are waaaaay higher than estimated, hahaha :D
 
Yeah - it's deceptive how fast they add up in a pile ... unless you're buying new, then the piles are disappointingly small!

Fiired brass, w or w/o the dead primer in there should be shipped in USPS Priority boxes - cheapest going. Just be sure it's packed so they can't slop around ... that's about the only way they get damaged in transit, when the contents pound out a corner and start leaking.
/B
 
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