headstamp questions

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jedboom

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1.) I just received a batch of once fired .223 brass. The headstamps are either WWC 66, 86 or 96 and LC 01. I assume the LC is Lake City 2001. Does this stuff have crimped primers, and how do I tell? Also, If so how do I fix it?

2.) I read an article on another website( the Fulton Armory one) advising against reloading for AR-15 rifles. Is this true or is the guy paranoid? I like to shoot and all, but I don't feel like blowing myself up. Judging from the article if make sure to trim the cases and pay attention to OAL I should be OK. Any advice would be helpful I fairly new to reloading, I've done about 300 rounds of 45 ACP and 100 round of 30-30 without any problems.
 
WWC is Winchester-Western Cartridge, Winchester's military and government ammo division.

I'm sure lots of people reload for the AR-15, but with surplus ammo being dirt cheap, like 9mm, it becomes hard to justify the time spent on reloading since the monetary cost is about equal.

The warning about not using reloads covers their butt when a reloaded round blows up in your rifle. Basically, you blew up the gun with reloaded ammo so they don't have to fix it under warranty.
 
If you buy your components carefully and reuse brass, you can reload the .223 Rem. substantially cheaper than you can get surplus ammo for it, even Wolf... (although the Wolf is close).

For the AR, you just need to pick a set of components that approximates the military ammo in bullet weight, velocity and port pressure, which is relatively easy to do.

Claims about not recommending reloading for ARs are mostly to satisfy someone's lawyers...
 
Ammo quality for shooting at foreigners is mostly directed at reliability, not accuracy. Econo-ball for shooting at tin cans, not even that.

Target and varmint grade ammunition is expensive. You can load it much cheaper, and maybe even more accurately.

Reasonable handloads in surplus brass falls between military and target. I call them "BBs" for Better than Ball.

True military ammunition has crimped-in primers to avoid blowing a primer in a hot machine gun and causing a jam in a tight corner. The crimp is removed by reaming or swaging, check your equipment catalogs.
 
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