Heavy rust and corrosion removal

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Cazach

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I have an heirloom revolver that was literally buried in the ground. It has a fairly heavy build up of rust, but some of the intricate carving is still visible.

Other than elbow grease, are there any recommended methods for cleaning this thing up? (It is going into a display box and need not operate, yet should look presentable).

I have heard of dropping it into an electrolyte solution and creating a galvanic cell to remove the rust, but did not know if this is a valid approach.

Keep in mind this is heavy rust and scale.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
Check on the wood working forums. A lot of those guys are old tool collectors and will use electrolysis to clean the old ones up. I don't have a link handy but as I recall it used a solution of washing soda and a dc power supply.
 
Cazach, here is a method for removing rust using electrolysis. I used this on a 1911 frame that had been sitting in a gun safe for years. The outside was cleaned and oiled regularly, but the inside had surface rust all through it. After the process, all the rust was gone from all the little nooks and crannies.

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You can remove rust from metal using electrolysis, and it will not harm the bluing. The main advantage to this method is it gets all the rust in hard to reach places. You will need:

- A plastic container that will hold the part and electrolysis solution.
- Steel rod. DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL AS THIS WILL PRODUCE HARMFUL BYPRODUCTS.
- Water
- Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (not baking soda. Washing soda can be found in your local grocery store with the laundry detergents. If you cannot find washing soda, pour some baking soda {sodium bicarbonate} into a pan and heat it over low-medium heat. Water and carbon-dioxide will cook-off leaving washing soda {sodum carbonate}.)
- Battery charger or other high amperage power supply.

Cautions:
- Please wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with this solution as it is very alkaline and can cause irritation.
- Do NOT use stainless steel for the electrode as this will produce harmful byproducts.
- The electrolysis process breaks down water into its component parts, Hydrogen and Oxygen, which can be explosive. Work outside or in a very well ventilated area.
- Be sure your battery charger/power supply is unplugged before attaching or touching the leads.

In the container, mix 1 tablespoon of washing soda for each gallon of water to make up your solution. Be sure the washing soda is thoroughly dissolved. Place a steel rod (do NOT use stainless steel) either through the part to be cleaned (use o-rings to prevent the part from touching the rod), or place numerous rods around the inside of your container. Connect these rods with wire; these will be the anode. You must be sure that the part to be cleaned is not touching the rod(s). Suspend the part in the solution with steel cable or wire so that it makes a good electrical contact with the part; this will become the cathode. Connect the negative lead (black) to the part being cleaned (either to the part itself, or to the suspending cable or wire), and connect the positive (red) lead to the rod(s), then plug in the charger. You will immediately begin to see bubbles; this is Hydrogen and Oxygen as the water breaks down. Allow the part to "cook" for 3-4 hours. The time is dependent on the size of the part, amount of rust, and the current of the power supply. After you remove the part, immediately clean and dry it off, then coat it with a good quality gun oil or rust preventative oil.

I tried this process on a 1911 frame that had a lot of surface rust all throughout the inside. I set the frame upside down on wooden blocks in the electrolysis solution and placed a rod with o-rings through the magazine well. I connected a 1.5 amp trickle charger and left it for about 4 hours. When finished, the frame was completely free of rust, and the bluing was intact.
 
All,

Thanks this is just the kind of info I was looking for.
 
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