HELLE Norway, Harding 99
- Thread starter RLsnow
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Baba Louie
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- Dec 26, 2002
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For the price I'd bet that it's a great knife. I've only seen Helle's offered thru Ragnar's site...
http://www.ragweedforge.com/HelleCatalog.html
Laminated stainless blade. Traditional Nordic lines. What's not to like?
Since you've got one RL, tell us your thoughts please.
Most of the puuko types I've actually seen and handled are either the Moras (Swede) or Marttiini (Finn) blades. For those of you not aware of fine Nordic knives other than Fallenkniven, check out ragweedforge's page. Great using knives for the price.
http://www.ragweedforge.com/HelleCatalog.html
Laminated stainless blade. Traditional Nordic lines. What's not to like?
Since you've got one RL, tell us your thoughts please.
Most of the puuko types I've actually seen and handled are either the Moras (Swede) or Marttiini (Finn) blades. For those of you not aware of fine Nordic knives other than Fallenkniven, check out ragweedforge's page. Great using knives for the price.
well, its great for cutting things 
and to smash ice out of the edge of the window.
other than that i dont do much with it, just the occasional cutting of wood or something like that on a trip, its sharp (methinks) and i think its good to hold.
other than that i dont do much with knifes, other than cut things so i dont know much, its good though and i like it.
and to smash ice out of the edge of the window.other than that i dont do much with it, just the occasional cutting of wood or something like that on a trip, its sharp (methinks) and i think its good to hold.
other than that i dont do much with knifes, other than cut things so i dont know much, its good though and i like it.
Your uncle gave an excellent knife to you.
wulfbyte
Member
I own a Helle Brakar, a very similar design to the Harding. It is without doubt one of my favorite knives and the one I go for first when heading out to the woods.
Like most Helle knives it and the Harding are made from a laminated stainless steel; meaning it is a center core of very hard steel sandwiched between two layers of softer steel. It also uses a "Scandinavian" bevel, where there is only a single primary angle and no secondary. When you sharpen it, simply lay the whole bevel flat on your stone (making sure it is properly lubricated).
Edge bevels of this type can get extremely sharp.
You'll also find that the handle shape is superbly designed and follows several thousand years of Nordic tradition. The sheath is also of a traditional design and very secure.
You have an excellent knife that you can expect to last you a very long time. I am a bit biased though as I gave my own son a Helle Odel.
Like most Helle knives it and the Harding are made from a laminated stainless steel; meaning it is a center core of very hard steel sandwiched between two layers of softer steel. It also uses a "Scandinavian" bevel, where there is only a single primary angle and no secondary. When you sharpen it, simply lay the whole bevel flat on your stone (making sure it is properly lubricated).
Edge bevels of this type can get extremely sharp.
You'll also find that the handle shape is superbly designed and follows several thousand years of Nordic tradition. The sheath is also of a traditional design and very secure.
You have an excellent knife that you can expect to last you a very long time. I am a bit biased though as I gave my own son a Helle Odel.
super!
now how would i go about sharpening it? as in can i just use a regular sharpening stone (or the stuff we sharpen kitchen knifes with?)
im afraid since i got it the only kind of maintainance its been recieving is washing fingerprints away from the blade of course its only had very light use but still...
now how would i go about sharpening it? as in can i just use a regular sharpening stone (or the stuff we sharpen kitchen knifes with?)
im afraid since i got it the only kind of maintainance its been recieving is washing fingerprints away from the blade
of course its only had very light use but still...Kingcreek
Member
Great knife. It deserves a good sharpening stone or flat ceramic for the blade, and an occaisional light coat of boiled linseed oil on the handle- wipe off excess and buff with a piece of burlap. I use a beeswax and mink oil dressing for leather sheaths called Sno-Seal.
wulfbyte
Member
Here are a couple of links to articles that mention techniques for sharpening Scandinavian style bevel knives (among other things).
http://www.ragweedforge.com/scanshrp.html
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/gl1/knifemaking1.htm
For my own Helle knife, I use a little water on a set of DMT diamond hones and finish with a super fine ceramic (600, 1200 and 2200 grit respectively). I just lay the bevel flat on the hone and then in small circular movements (heresy I know) I make sure I keep the whole bevel in contact and eventually go from shoulder to tip. I rinse between grits and within a few minutes I am back to that scary sharp edge.
http://www.ragweedforge.com/scanshrp.html
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/gl1/knifemaking1.htm
For my own Helle knife, I use a little water on a set of DMT diamond hones and finish with a super fine ceramic (600, 1200 and 2200 grit respectively). I just lay the bevel flat on the hone and then in small circular movements (heresy I know) I make sure I keep the whole bevel in contact and eventually go from shoulder to tip. I rinse between grits and within a few minutes I am back to that scary sharp edge.
Here's a popular method of sharpening/maintaining a Scandi grind blade that will help keep the bevel intact.
Go to the hardware store and buy a few sheets of 320-400 grit and 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, you can also get some 1000-2000 grit for polishing when you are done sharpening.
Cut sandpaper into workable strips and glue them onto a flat surface (some use a computer mousepad while others use glass plate for the flatness.
Place your knife so that the scandi bevel is absolutely flat/flush with the sandpaper, now drag the knife across the sandpaper so that the entire bevel is sharpened by the sandpaper. Work from low grit up to high grip, or you may only need hgh grit (600 or 1000) if it is just a 'touch-up'. If you have a leather strop of really wide belt, you can strop the edge a bit to really finish up the edge.
This method will give you a scary sharp knife.
Go to the hardware store and buy a few sheets of 320-400 grit and 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, you can also get some 1000-2000 grit for polishing when you are done sharpening.
Cut sandpaper into workable strips and glue them onto a flat surface (some use a computer mousepad while others use glass plate for the flatness.
Place your knife so that the scandi bevel is absolutely flat/flush with the sandpaper, now drag the knife across the sandpaper so that the entire bevel is sharpened by the sandpaper. Work from low grit up to high grip, or you may only need hgh grit (600 or 1000) if it is just a 'touch-up'. If you have a leather strop of really wide belt, you can strop the edge a bit to really finish up the edge.
This method will give you a scary sharp knife.
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
Helle!
Dude!
I'm all jealous and stuff.
I only have one Norwegian knife, and it's currently in Nevada, while I'm in Idaho.
I have a mess of Swedish and Finnish knives. The Swedes are very simple and utilitarian. Same blade shape, but plain, unadorned handles. Good to use for many things, but nothing fancy. Cheap plastic sheaths, usually. Some simple leather.
The Finns are more finished (no pun intended), more polished, and fitted with nicer grips. They are also usually just a bit sharper, but that's just a function of the finishing process. They usually cost a bit more than the Swedes. Simple leather sheaths usually.
The Norwegians, on the other hand, are not only well-finished, they are fancier than the Swedes and Finns, and usually considerably more care goes into the final fit-and-finish. Nice sheaths, too; leatherwork is nice.
The Norwegian knives typically cost more than the Finns.
The one you have is, in my opinion, an exceptional knife.
Its simplicity and utility are deceptive. With even moderate care, you'll be handing that knife down at least one generation. Maybe two.
I have some older Swedish and Finnish knives -- estimated 30 to 40 years old -- that are worn, some chipped, and some with sheaths that are really beat up, but they still take an excellent edge and show real enthusiasm for their work.
I still have my first Mora (Sweden) knife. I picked it up in the engine room of a ship I sailed with out of Stockholm. In 1973. And it was already well used by then.
I would expect no less from yours.
I have the first knife my father gave me, on my 12th birthday. I've had it 46 years. And it's not nearly as nice as the one your uncle has given you.
Keep it. Use it. Care for it.
See you in 50 years.
Dude!
I'm all jealous and stuff.
I only have one Norwegian knife, and it's currently in Nevada, while I'm in Idaho.
I have a mess of Swedish and Finnish knives. The Swedes are very simple and utilitarian. Same blade shape, but plain, unadorned handles. Good to use for many things, but nothing fancy. Cheap plastic sheaths, usually. Some simple leather.
The Finns are more finished (no pun intended), more polished, and fitted with nicer grips. They are also usually just a bit sharper, but that's just a function of the finishing process. They usually cost a bit more than the Swedes. Simple leather sheaths usually.
The Norwegians, on the other hand, are not only well-finished, they are fancier than the Swedes and Finns, and usually considerably more care goes into the final fit-and-finish. Nice sheaths, too; leatherwork is nice.
The Norwegian knives typically cost more than the Finns.
The one you have is, in my opinion, an exceptional knife.
Its simplicity and utility are deceptive. With even moderate care, you'll be handing that knife down at least one generation. Maybe two.
I have some older Swedish and Finnish knives -- estimated 30 to 40 years old -- that are worn, some chipped, and some with sheaths that are really beat up, but they still take an excellent edge and show real enthusiasm for their work.
I still have my first Mora (Sweden) knife. I picked it up in the engine room of a ship I sailed with out of Stockholm. In 1973. And it was already well used by then.
I would expect no less from yours.
I have the first knife my father gave me, on my 12th birthday. I've had it 46 years. And it's not nearly as nice as the one your uncle has given you.
Keep it. Use it. Care for it.
See you in 50 years.
mwuahaha...it is my second favorite knife (out of my two knifes...)
the other one i made myself (9th grade) so its purely emotional...
i might just go do what CWL suggested as i want to keep the knife good and shiny (it has a FEW MINOR dents and "cuts" in the blade)
(out of my two knifes...)the other one i made myself (9th grade
) so its purely emotional...i might just go do what CWL suggested as i want to keep the knife good and shiny
(it has a FEW MINOR dents and "cuts" in the blade)Helle Eggen
Hi all, just had to let you guys know about my new knife, Helle Eggen, from norway, i paid 64 pounds with delivery.
I will start by saying i am really fond of this knife and the strange sheath design, works really well for all my general bushcraft, camping, chors. Its true what Ray Mears said to me, a sharp knife is a joy to use. I live by the coast in wales and wanted a knife that would resist the salt, so had to be stainless steel, luckily it has a carbon steel core, a steel sandwhich if you like, the best of both worlds. If you are looking for a quality knife, for i think reasonable money you should have a look at Helle, thats my top tip.I can see this being a trusty time served friend in the future.
A chap in a army surplus shop said it would be a problem to sharpen, due to the sandwhich steel. I firmly disagree.Without much sharpening expierience. Having just read a post on here, i used 1200 wet/dry sandpaper which i soaked first, eight strokes away bevel lay flat and eight return,did this 4 times. i finished with a leather belt. My expectations were 50/50
This is a really great way to sharpen this knife, as i cannot afford a ceramic stone.
Thankyou who ever you are that posted this technique, if ever we meet, ill buy you a pint,
cheers Arran
Hi all, just had to let you guys know about my new knife, Helle Eggen, from norway, i paid 64 pounds with delivery.
I will start by saying i am really fond of this knife and the strange sheath design, works really well for all my general bushcraft, camping, chors. Its true what Ray Mears said to me, a sharp knife is a joy to use. I live by the coast in wales and wanted a knife that would resist the salt, so had to be stainless steel, luckily it has a carbon steel core, a steel sandwhich if you like, the best of both worlds. If you are looking for a quality knife, for i think reasonable money you should have a look at Helle, thats my top tip.I can see this being a trusty time served friend in the future.
A chap in a army surplus shop said it would be a problem to sharpen, due to the sandwhich steel. I firmly disagree.Without much sharpening expierience. Having just read a post on here, i used 1200 wet/dry sandpaper which i soaked first, eight strokes away bevel lay flat and eight return,did this 4 times. i finished with a leather belt. My expectations were 50/50
This is a really great way to sharpen this knife, as i cannot afford a ceramic stone.
Thankyou who ever you are that posted this technique, if ever we meet, ill buy you a pint,
cheers Arran
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