Hello everybody

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stovepipe699

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Just wanted to say hello. I'm pretty happy to find somewhere to talk about reloading. I've reloaded 30-06 for my bolt action Tikka for a few years now, but I have a couple questions. 1) What kind of brass do you guys prefer? I've been using R-P because I had them, but I've also got some Federals. I'm watching a couple e-bay auctions, one with R-P, another military,Winchesters . 2) Does trying different primers have a big effect on accuracy & velocity? I've just used 9 1/2 REM b/c I bought 1000 of them. Talk to you guys later.:confused:
 
I don't think your Tikka -- or just about any factory rifle, really -- is going to care much about which brand of brass. If the gun is capable of well under MOA, Federal's match brass, or good Norma brass, may make a difference.

In my hunting rifles I've used just about every brand of .30-06 brass and honestly could not tell you a thing about them. They all worked.

Primers MIGHT make a difference in an incredibly accurate benchrest rifle, although even the benchrest competitors argue about it. In a factory rifle it's not going to make the slightest bit of difference.

BTW, welcome aboard!
 
Primers can make a difference, although it won't be drastic. You have to test and see what your rifle,powder,buller,etc. combination like. Brass can too but again, not that drastic. If you are just hunting and your rifle will shoot around 1 MOA or a bit more I would not waste components and just go shoot em dead. :)
 
Welcome to The Magnificent Obsession!!

Stovepipe699--Glad to have you aboard. Agree w/the above posters--Depends on how much accuracy you are going for, whether or not different brass is significant. Primers can be a bit more significant IMX--May change yr POI a little bit--when you change primer brands do a range session with paper targets and check it out. (Likewise with a change in brass maker if you suspect that that is changing yr POI.) But if you aren't loading anywhere near max loads, the change in primers should not be a safety factor.

However, if you are one of those reloaders who just has to squeeze every last FPS out of a cartridge, then you are working in the area where any change could push you over the SAAMI pressure limit for yr cartridge. And in that case, then every change has to be downloaded for and checked out.

And as I'm sure you know, max accuracy and max pressure are not usually found together.
 
Thanks for the advise guys. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something that should be experimented with. I'm trying to get 5 shots less than 1 inch at 100yards, and with good velocity. I'm using H4350 and Hornady 165 BTSP as well as 180 I-B. I got into reloading when I bought my M-1 Garand, and then stopped for a little while after poor results. When I bought my Tikka, I was dissapointed with loose groups from $29 a box ammo, got pissed off and bought my own press and did some research. My best group at 110 yards put 5 shots I could cover with a nickel. Then I closely read the instuctions with the dies and reset them as per instructions. My prior settings were dumb luck, and now I'm learning about seating depth crimp/no crimp, correctly seating primers and soforth. The quest for the perfect load is never done!:banghead:
 
Aah man...He's hooked. I keep trying to warn these guys. Don't start reloading cause you can't quit. From now on out it will be " honey...I need a hundred dollars for mor bullets, powder and primers.":D
 
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