HELP!! My rifle is starting to rust...

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SavageMOA

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In April I bought a Savage 12FV for target shooting. Since then, every time I've taken her out, I always thoroughly wipe her down with oil before putting it back in it's case. I recently moved up to college and since we can't keep guns on campus I have to keep them at my grandfather's house. To make it easier to get to it whenever I wanted it, he gave me a key to his "storage shed" (It's basically a two story garage) and this is where I keep it, as well as my other rifles.

The other day when I brought it out, there was a light rust on the trigger guard, bolt handle, and a little on the trigger and also safety which is located on tang.

Everywhere else was fine: barrel, action and the rest of the bolt was free of rust.

I realized that the only places that are rusting are the places where my hands made contact.

Most of the visible rust has been removed with simply a cloth and some oil, but there's still some VERY slight spots that won't come off. The only way you would know it's there is by touch. Is there a way to remove this more stubborn rust without damaging the finish?

Sorry for the long post guys, but I honestly lost sleep last night about it.

-Will
 
let me guess.....

Does the case have the charcoal colored polyurethane foam in it?

If so, try putting the rifle into a gun sock and then putting it into the case.

Another option is to put them in the case well covered with oil. But this will eventually wick up into the foam and leave the rifle dry, as the urethane foam is open cell (like a sponge).

Urethane foam will out gas for some time and could be the culprit (whcih is why it, by law, must be shipped from the foamer to the fabricators in a vented trailer.)

I had a similar problem with my kit build black powder Kentucky long rifle. :(

I only use my hard cases for transporting my rifles now. Not for storing them.
 
Last edited:
Wow...

you nailed it.

I bought an aluminum hard case for it and it's padded with that charcoal colored foam. Putting it in a gun sock with fix that?

also, how can i remove the rust that's already started?
 
Use really fine steel wool with oil on it, and the rust will come off.

Foam cases are horrible about rusting guns, I'd put it in something else, and then get it somewhere that is climate controlled. Big temperature swings will make moisture condense on the metal, in areas that have high humidity.
 
Has anyone ever used the steel wool method on their rifle with a blued finish successfully?
 
0000 steel wool and some oil or blue wonder works. You need to be gentle. Then consider what oil you are using as well. Some are better than others. CLP is widely available and works well enough for most purposes. Gun Socks help. Fineally, you could paint or coat it with something. Not that Savages are bad rifles, but I don't think of them as attractive... I'd consider duracoat if I had one.
 
I prefer bronze wool and oil (Kroil is great), or a copper penny used as a scraper. Steel wool, even superfine, can take off the blue eventually...ask me how I know. :banghead:

And keep it out of that case! Or, if you have to use a case, put it in a sock, as was suggested, and leave the case open. If you don't use the gun very often you can also cover the metal with something heavier than gun oil...RIG works well, or something similar.
 
I use it pretty often. I'm gonna go buy a sock and something to gently scrub the rust off as soon as I'm off work. wish me luck. Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.
 
I use 0000 steel wool and some oil of any sort. Just rub the rust after putting some oil on it. There won't be blueing where the rust was, but the rest of the blueing will be fine.
 
putting it in a gunsock is a good bet, putting it in two is better. also, if you have an old army elephant rubber, or access to some of the paper, that foreign rifles get shipped over here in, that is good as well. it is emitter paper.
you can also buy emitter clothes, that are presoaked in the emitter liquid as well. Not only do i do this, but I use vci emitter discs, inside all my rifle bags. the liquid and the discs, and the russian paper, emit a vapor that attaches to everything that is metal. and creates a moisture barrier.
how well does it work? I took a 60 year old rifle bag, deer skin, with the wool inside liner. I put in it, a 70 year old marlin 22, that had absolutely no bluing on it whatsoever, and would start to rust if you stared at it too hard.
I thoroughly cleaned it, then treated with the vci cloth, and the disc was put in the bag.
Then I put in the trunk of my car, a leaky trunk, In houston, from Feb two years ago, when it is cold and rainy, to may, when it is hot and juicy. Pulled it out of the bag.... not one speck of rust.
 
outers sells some brushs that i got one is a soft copper/brass dont remember which then it has a nylon and a steel they are a great set i got them in the gun section at wally world for 5 buck or so

i would start by putting oil directly on it the scrub it with the nylon or a hard tooth brush then move up the scale of abrasivness till it was gone
 
CLP, and very light steel wool, if the rust has'nt been on long bluing should be fine. When u go to store it put a thin coat of CLP on your gun.
 
If the spots aren't terribly large, you might consider leaving them alone. If any of the methods suggested fail, and I can tell you love your gun, it can always be reblued.
 
Bronze Wool Source?

Gator said:
I prefer bronze wool and oil (Kroil is great), or a copper penny used as a scraper. Steel wool, even superfine, can take off the blue eventually...ask me how I know.

Where do you get bronze wool?
 
You`re better off storing in a gun sock and forgetting the case except for transport. The foam in the cases absorb and hold moisture, and are not meant as storage containers.
Wipe the rifle down with a good rustpreventative, I like Rig Grease, and store in a silicone treated sock where air can flow around it. You don`t want it air tight.
 
While I agree with all the recommendations, I'd suggest you also consider upgrading the oil you use. From my research on here and elsewhere (6mmbr.com has an excellent test) the best options appear to be Eezox and Corrosion-X. Either one should essentially end rusting while not hindering your use of the gun, the way that RIG or cosmoline would do. I'm currently experimenting with Eezox as it seems to be the #1 in all rust tests it's tried in.
 
Don't feel bad...I learned the hard way also.
I couldn't see any rust, but I all ways wipe mine down before shooting....VERY light coat of oil on out side, and to remove ALL oil in barrel before shooting.

I couldn't see or feel it on the rifle, but it was on the rag after wiping down. NONE of my other that were NOT in the case did this....

I now only use the case for hauling it around.
 
By some of the 4 ounce dessicant bags from cheaper than dirt, throw two or three in the closet where you store the rifle and stuff a couple in the gun sock with the rifle. They will absorb the moisture and you can re charge them when they become laden, that depends on how air tight the area where it is stored.

If you can take the barreled action from the stock and get it into a foot locker, the bags work really well , beter yet is get a 25 buck heater and put it into a confined area where you store your rifle, Outers makes 2 the Goldenrod, and their entry level a black one they come in different lengths, and just keep the storage area 2-5degrees warmer than the surrounding area and that stops the condensation, they are installed in the bottom of your "gun locker or safe" mine hapens to be one of the cheapie Stack On Wally World 69 buck specials, yours can be a plastic foot locker that will hold the barreled action. Drill a 1/4" hole in one end to pass the electric cord through and the heater comes with a special snap on plug for the cord, the cord is 6 foot so you can locate your"locker" near a wall outlet. That will elleminate your rust problems.
 
I used steel wool on the Belgian Browning Sweet 16 I forgot and left in the attic, and you can't tell. Just rub it gently. It's really no big deal, been done for decades.
 
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