I have a 8 year old 10/22 and over time the scope mount screws were stripped from changing to diffrent mounts then were retapped with bigger holes well they are stripped again because tonight I put a bull barrell on it so no need for the see thru mounts but when I took them off the threads came out, I think the holes have been tapped out to the biggest ones possible. So my ? is what are my choices can I make new holes for the mounts or would that make the receiver to weak with all the holes, as for looks the old holes would be coverd up with the mount or do I have any other choices. Thanks any help would be great.
Help on stripped 10/22 holes (long)
- Thread starter tango3065
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First, if you are building up a custom 10/22, don't use a beater receiver.
Personally, I'd save up and buy the MOA stainless receiver out of the Brownells catalog (through a FFL of course) and use the old bolt and trigger guard. Because next you'll want the Voltquartsen parts, etc...
If not:
Choose your next mount carefully. Get a good one you can live with for a while. Get yourself some good epoxy. Degrease the holes with acetone on a Qtip and degrease the receiver mount screws twice. Put a dab of epoxy in each hole and some on the mount and set it in place with the screws (you can even align the slots with the bore for a custom look). Let it set up a bit and then trim off the spooged epoxy with a sharpened popsicle stick.
Lots of 10/22 shooters epoxy the mounts in place even with good holes in the receiver... IMHO, aluminum sucks on a rifle- now you know why I feel that way.
Personally, I'd save up and buy the MOA stainless receiver out of the Brownells catalog (through a FFL of course) and use the old bolt and trigger guard. Because next you'll want the Voltquartsen parts, etc...
If not:
Choose your next mount carefully. Get a good one you can live with for a while. Get yourself some good epoxy. Degrease the holes with acetone on a Qtip and degrease the receiver mount screws twice. Put a dab of epoxy in each hole and some on the mount and set it in place with the screws (you can even align the slots with the bore for a custom look). Let it set up a bit and then trim off the spooged epoxy with a sharpened popsicle stick.
Lots of 10/22 shooters epoxy the mounts in place even with good holes in the receiver... IMHO, aluminum sucks on a rifle- now you know why I feel that way.
Big_R
Member
I agree about not building a custom on a beater, but if you want to, you may be able to have heli-coils (threaded inserts) installed. The existing holes in your receiver would be enlarged, and an insert installed that had threads comparable to what you currently use. This is the same thing that's used when spark plug threads are stripped in an engine head. They come in a huge variety of sizes. Check with a local smith, or check with a NAPA that does engine building. I'd bet they would install them on a stripped receiver.
Ryan
Ryan
Okay, I have to ask...
At $50 per hole to tap and drill (normal cost around my part of the woods) why bother? I can buy the guns for $130 new.
Last, exactly how many times are you going to screw up this operation before it sinks in that paying somebody who knows what they're doing is a better answer?
I'm not trying to be mean, but have a little pity on the gunsmith. If you can't mount a scope without damaging the gun you need to lay down the screwdriver.
At $50 per hole to tap and drill (normal cost around my part of the woods) why bother? I can buy the guns for $130 new.
Last, exactly how many times are you going to screw up this operation before it sinks in that paying somebody who knows what they're doing is a better answer?
I'm not trying to be mean, but have a little pity on the gunsmith. If you can't mount a scope without damaging the gun you need to lay down the screwdriver.
Gee Traveler ---- I don't think you managed your intention of not trying to sound/be mean !
Frankly if I had to pay $50 a hole for drill & tap I would likely duck tape and super glue my scopes on before I took them to a smith ! (all due respect to the smiths in your area - not trying to be mean)
Mastinson ----- Glad it worked out for you, I had to drill and tap a complete new set of holes on a 10/22 this fall and that works out OK also. This one had already been taped to the next larger size in the past. The reciever being aluminum does not taking kindly to having the base removed often. The one I had to work on also had see through mounts and a large scope. I suspect the guys tendancy to carry the gun by the scope also didn't help to keep things solid.
Frankly if I had to pay $50 a hole for drill & tap I would likely duck tape and super glue my scopes on before I took them to a smith ! (all due respect to the smiths in your area - not trying to be mean)
Mastinson ----- Glad it worked out for you, I had to drill and tap a complete new set of holes on a 10/22 this fall and that works out OK also. This one had already been taped to the next larger size in the past. The reciever being aluminum does not taking kindly to having the base removed often. The one I had to work on also had see through mounts and a large scope. I suspect the guys tendancy to carry the gun by the scope also didn't help to keep things solid.
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