Help restoring my garand Stock...

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Nugilum

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I need some help on restoring my Garand stock. I know this has been covered several times, but apparently I'm too fried to find anything in search (pharmacy finals are going on right now).

Since I'm in pharmacy school and living in a townhouse with no backyard or garage, I tried to find someone around here to recondition my stock for me (Athens, GA). Apparently there isn't anyone around here who does this commercially and my network here is somewhat lacking. :eek: The antique furniture stores here won't touch it saying gun stocks are different compared to furniture (gun stocks are in the same group as musical instruments and require different procedures). :scrutiny:

I'm looking for pointers on restoring a walnut stock that is 4 year old friendly (he'll get into anything I do. Heck, I did at his age :D) or if someone knows a person in GA that does quality work. I remember reading threads/post about using an iron, dishwasher, boiling water, crushed kitty litter, and who knows what else.

Thanks everyone! :)


This might make a good sticky...
 
Check the CMP forums (http://www.odcmp.org), I know a lot of guys on that forum start stripping it by running it through the dishwasher. No kidding. Evidently it strips the oils, and swells the grain, popping out dings and dents.
 
What's the current condition of the stock? Are you just trying to bring out the original finish of a fairly clean stock, or is it full of cosmoline and oil, etc?

I'm an advocate of using heat and an absorbent to pull out the cosmoline. I like to avoid powerful solvents because I've seen wood become bleached, and water can raise the grain of the wood. Sometimes those techniques are unavoidable, but I prefer to start conservatively.
 
Get a can of Zip-Strip and some green ScotchBrite pads and have at 'er. Get a box of TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) and clean the stock with a good strong mixture of TSP & water and a stiff bristled nylon brush. Use and iron and a damp towel to steam out as many dings as you can.

After that, you should be ready for finish.
 
The dishwasher worked wonders for me; it removed dirt, oil and raised dents. With adequate drying and a dozen coats of BLO, it looks great!
 
Well, many methods require the use of nasty solvents. The most kid-friendly method I can thing of is HOT water and dishwashing soap (Dawn, Palmolive, etc.). You'll need to hit it with some 0000 steel wool when you're done. Good luck.
 
OK, and when my wife says "What in the h*%# is a piece of wood doing in my dishwasher?!" what do I say? ;)

The stock seems dirty with almost as many pits and dings as Michigan has lakes... :what:

It looks like this is something that I need to put on the back burner until this semester is over sometime in mid May (yes, I just finished three finals, five more to go!). I just don't have the time required right now. :fire:

I'm almost temped to buy a new stock. Ruins my matching Garand though. :uhoh:
 
I'll be glad to give you step by step instructions. I know what they are trying to accomplish by suggesting the dishwasher but it is just the wrong way to do it. Just PM me if you would like the instructions.
 
If you really want to get it stripped and totally clean for refinishing, there's no way around nasty chemicals. Just do it while the young'un is asleep or away.
 
I put my in the dishwasher twice and t worked fine. You have to make sure you don't dry it in there cuz that can really mess things up. After applying many coats of Truoil and min spirits at about 40/60 by hand she is beautiful.
 
FBMG Smithy, how specifically do you do the "dishwasher" technique? Just put the stock in the dishwasher with regular dish soap and tape up the metal clips? (excuse my lack of proper terms) and is there a specific soap that works better? Thanks for the help
 
i ahve heard of guys using steam cleaners from like cvs that are ment for cleaning bathrooms etc.

its just steam no chemicals and will cook out most of the oils and raise the dings havent tried it myself though
 
OK, I took the wimp way out and found someone else to do my stock. :eek: He lives in Decatur, GA and he did an incredible job! :D
I'd like to thank everyone who gave me some advise on how to work on my stock. It wasn't a waste! I will definitely use the procedures FBMG Smithy sent me on two of my Mausers. :) FYI: I'm still in school, now taking the next round of finals...

Here are some pictures of my Service Garand that could now be considered a "correct":
Korea-1.gif
Korea-2.gif

I'm happy!
 
His method?

Did the guy that did your stock tell you his method? I am interested in knowing what he did. I have restored a few in my time and I am just wondering what kind of techniques I could use for future stocks.
 
DO NOT use the dishwasher method, water and wood = bad combonation.

Here is how I refinished mine with good results:

Go to the store and get some wood stain stripper, then use as directed, it will get all the oil grease and finish off the wood. I used cheap spray stripper from wal-mart.

Then if you want get the color stain you want (this part is optional) Apply and let dry the recommended amount of time.

The last step is to finish the stock with Tung oil. You can find this at any hardware store. Tung oil was the finish used on garand stocks durring WWII. Apply a THIN coat by hand with a cloth and rub it into the stock, then let dry overnight (or 12 hours) then when it is dry, LIGHTLY go over the stock with 0000 steel wool, then apply another coat. This will leave you with a stock that is protected from the elements and looks like new. (if you want and if there aren't any cartouches on the stock, you can also sand out or iron out any imperfections)


Here are some pictures of my Service Garand that could now be considered a "correct":

Not to be a smartass, but did you also replace all the components with those with the same manufacture and drawing number that would of come from the factory at the time of manufacture and add the correctly stamped stock? Thats what correct grade is, not just condition
 
OK, here's what he did...

HOW TO REFINISH A MILITARY GUN STOCK, BY TOM FINDLEY

THESE INSTRUCTIONS PRODUCE EXCELLENT RESULTS. OTHER MEN AT THE RIFLE RANGES AND GUN SHOWS CANNOT TAKE THEIR EYES OFF A STOCK REFINISHED WITH THIS PROCESS.

1. MATERIALS NEEDED:

HAND-HELD ELECTRIC SANDER
2 1/2 GALLON METAL BUCKET
RUBBER GLOVES
220 GRIT SANDPAPER
150 GRIT SANDPAPER
100 GRIT SANDPAPER
#1 STEEL WOOL
#0000 STEEL WOOL
BROWNELL'S ACRAGLAS
SUPERGLUE
KLEEN-KUTTER VARNISH, LACQUER, AND SHELLAC REMOVER, FROM HOME DEPOT.
SUPER GLUE AT HOBBY SHOPS OR WAL-MART
BOILED LINSEED OIL
LOW-GLOSS TUNG OIL
FIEBING'S DARK BROWN LEATHER DYE FROM TANDY LEATHERCRAFT. GET THE ALCOHOL BASED DYE, NOT THE WATER BASED:
Fiebing's Dye 4 oz Dk Brown 2100-03

2. PUT TAPE OVER THE METAL PART OF THE GARAND FRONT HANDGUARD. IF YOU MUST REMOVE THE METAL TO CHANGE HANDGUARDS, HERE'S HOW TO REMOVE IT:
M1 GARAND HANDGUARD METAL REPLACEMENT
I USUALLY REMOVE THE REAR HANDGUARD CLIP, SO THE JOB LOOKS COMPLETE.

REMOVE THE SCREWS FROM THE BUTT PLATE. IT SHOULD COME OFF WITH THE SLING SWIVEL.
TRY TO REMOVE THE SCREW AND FERRULE ON THE FRONT OF THE STOCK.
IF IT WON'T COME OFF, TAP THE FERRULE WITH A WOOD BLOCK AND A HAMMER A FEW TIMES.
IF IT WON'T COME OFF, COVER IT WITH MASKING TAPE AND PROCEED.

3. POUR ABOUT 8 OUNCES OF KLEEN-KUTTER INTO A 2 1/2 GALLON METAL BUCKET.

4. STAND THE STOCK IN THE BUCKET.

5. PUT ON THICK RUBBER GLOVES, AND USE A 2 1/2 INCH PAINTBRUSH TO COAT THE STOCK WITH THE LIQUID. COAT THE HAND GUARDS, TOO. LET SIT FOR 30 MINUTES.

6. REPEAT THE PROCESS WITH THE PAINTBRUSH.

7. USE FRESH LIQUID, AND USE #1 STEEL WOOL INSTEAD OF THE PAINTBRUSH TO SCRUB THE WOOD. DO NOT SCRUB HARD TO SMOOTH THE SURFACE, JUST ENOUGH FORCE TO GET THE LIQUID INTO THE REMAINING FINISH.

8. LET THE WOOD DRY OVERNIGHT.

9. REPEAT THIS PROCESS 1 OR MORE TIMES UNTIL THERE IS NO FINISH REMAINING. THIS PROCESS WILL ALSO BE A DURABILITY TEST FOR THE HANDGUARDS. IF ANY CRACKS APPEAR AFTER THE HANDGUARDS ARE DRY, FIX THEM WITH SUPER GLUE. I HAVE A PAGE SHOWING HOW TO DO THIS:
FIXING HANDGUARD CRACKS WITH SUPER GLUE
10. LET THE WOOD DRY OVERNIGHT.

11. IF THE CARTOUCHES LOOK GOOD, COVER THEM WITH MASKING TAPE AND SKIP TO STEP 16.
IF THE STOCK NEEDS NEW CARTOUCHES, SEND IT TO ME AT THIS POINT IN THE REFINISHING. IF THERE ARE ANY OLD ONES, SAND THEM OFF WITH 150 GRIT SANDPAPER.

12. AFTER GETTING THE STOCK BACK, THE CARTOUCHES WILL BE HARD TO SEE. PUT STAIN ON THE NEW CARTOUCHES ONLY.

13. LET THE STAIN DRY OVERNIGHT.

14. SAND THE CARTOUCHES 5 SECONDS WITH 150 GRIT SANDPAPER.

15. REPEAT STEPS 7 AND 8, TAKING CARE TO LEAVE THE DYE IN THE CARTOUCHE LINES. YOU WILL NOW HAVE A BARE STOCK WITH CARTOUCHES YOU CAN SEE BETTER.

16.LOOK FOR ANY DENTS, DINGS OR SCRATCHES.

17. YOU WILL NOW ATTEMPT TO STEAM THESE OUT. WRAP THE STOCK IN A WET TOWEL AND SET IT THE BATHTUB FOR 8 HOURS. RENOVE THE TOWEL AND PUT THE STOCK ON AN IRONING BOARD. HEAT UP THE IRON SO WHEN IT TOUCHES A DAMP CLOTH, THE WATER WILL STEAM. PRESS THE HOT IRON AGAINST THE DENTS. THIS WILL HEAT UP THE WATER AND CREATE STEAM WHICH WILL EXPAND AND GET RID OF SOME OF THE DENTS. LEAVE THE IRON ON THE STOCK UNTIL THE STEAM STOPS HISSING. PUT THE STOCK BACK IN THE TOWEL FOR 8 HOURS. REPEAT THE PROCESS UNTIL THE DENTS ARE GONE OR YOU ARE TIRED OF DOING THIS. I DO THIS ABOUT 2 TIMES.

18. WRAP THE HANDGUARDS IN WET WASHCLOTHS FOR 4 HOURS SET THEM SO THE CLOTHS DO NOT GET INSIDE THE HANDGUARDS. BY WETTING ONLY THE OUTSIDE, YOU WILL REDUCE THE CHANCES OF THE HANDGUARDS CRACKING WHILE DRYING. THE HAND GUARDS ARE FRAGILE.

19. LET THE STOCK AND HANDGUARDS DRY FOR 1 DAY TO GET ANY WATER OUT.

20. THE STEAMING PROCESS MAY HAVE GOTTEN RID OF SOME OF THE DENTS. FOR THOSE IT DIDN'T, SAND THE STOCK WITH 150 GRIT SANDPAPER. THIS WILL GET RID OF THE SHALLOW ONES PLUS SHALLOW SCRATCHES ON DENTS THAT REMAIN, SAND THEM WITH 100 GRIT SANDPAPER ONLY WHERE THE DENTS ARE. THIS CAN GET RID OF SOME DEEPER DENTS AND SCRATCHES. IF THIS WORKS, GO OVER THE AREA WITH 150 GRIT AFTER YOU'RE DONE WITH THE 100 GRIT.

21. IF THERE ARE ANY DENTS TOO DEEP FOR SANDPAPER, IT IS NOW TIME TO FILL THEM IN WITH A MIXTURE OF SUPERGLUE AND SAWDUST.

PUT SOME SUPERGLUE ON THE DENT, AND THEN PRESS SOME SAWDUST FROM THE STOCK ON TOP. IT DRIES IN ABOUT 15 MINUTES. SAND THE AREA WITH 150 GRIT PAPER. IF THERE IS STILL A DEPRESSION IN THE WOOD, REPEAT THE PROCES. WHEN COMPLETE, THE AREA WILL BE DARKER COMPARED TO THE STOCK. YOU WILL HAVE TO USE STAIN ON THE STOCK TO MAKE IT LESS NOTICEABLE. I HAVE EXPERIMENTED WITH DIFFERENT TYPES OF SAWDUST, BUT COULD NOT GET THE REPAIR TO MATCH. IT WILL BE LESS NOTICEABLE THAN THE DENT, BUT WON'T BE INVISIBLE.

IF THE GOUGE IS DEEP OR LARGE, USE BROWNELL'S ACRAGLAS AND SAWDUST. MIX THIS UP FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS, AND MIX ADD SOME OF THE SAWDUST FROM SANDING WITH THE ACRAGLAS ABOUT 5 MINUTES AFTER MIXING THE ACRAGLAS INGREDIENTS.

THE DRYING TIME FOR ACRAGLAS IS OVERNIGHT COMPARED TO THE 15 MINUTES OF SUPERGLUE.

I RECOMMEND ACRAGLAS FOR DEEP/LARGE GOUGES, BECAUSE YOU GET A LOT MORE OF IT IN A PACK. IT WILL ALSO FILL THE FLAW WITH 1 APPLICATION. THIS WILL MAKE THE ACRAGLAS LOOK AS CLOSE TO THE WOOD AS POSSIBLE, BUT IT WON'T BE A PERFECT MATCH, EITHER. WHEN FINISHED THE ACRAGLAS WON'T REALLY STAND OUT, BUT IT WON'T BE INVISIBLE, EITHER.

22. WHEN THE ACRAGLAS IS DRY, SAND THE WHOLE STOCK WITH 150 GRIT SANDPAPER.

23. IF THERE WAS TAPE ON THE EXISTING CARTOUCHES, REMOVE IT. SAND THE STOCK WITH 220 GRIT SANDPAPER. THIS WILL REMOVE THE SANDING MARKS LEFT BY THE COARSER GRITS. WHEN SANDING THE STOCK, THERE MAY BE DENTS THAT ARE TOO SHALLOW FOR THE ACRAGLAS TO STICK IN, AND IT WILL SAND OUT. THEN THE DENT MAY BE TOO DEEP TO SAND OUT WITH SANDPAPER. WHEN THIS HAPPENS, LEAVE THE DENT, AND LIVE WITH IT. THIS FLAW WOULD NOT HAVE PREVENTED THE WAFFEN SS TROOPS FROM FALLING OVER WHEN HIT WITH THE BULLETS FIRED FROM THE RIFLE.

24. RUB THE LEATHER DYE ON THE STOCK USING THE RUBBER GLOVES AND A BATH TOWEL (THE ONE THAT CAME WITH THE WASHCLOTH). RUB THE DYE OVER THE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE STOCK AND HAND GUARDS. DO NOT APPLY A HEAVY COAT.

25. LET IT AND THE HAND GUARDS DRY OVERNIGHT.

26. APPLY ANOTHER COAT OF DYE, AND LET IT DRY OVERNIGHT. THE STOCK SHOULD BE COMPLETELY COVERED WITH DYE.

27. RUB THE STOCK AND HAND GUARDS WITH #0000 STEEL WOOL.

28. COMPARE THE COLORING OF THE STOCK AND HAND GUARDS. IF THEY MATCH GO ON TO THE NEXT STEP. IF THEY DON'T MATCH, ONE IS LIGHTER THAN THE OTHER. HERE IS WHERE THE ARTISTRY COMES IN. IF THE STOCK IS TOO LIGHT, SAND THE DARK HAND GUARDS WITH #0000 STEEL WOOL TO LIGHTEN THE COLOR UNTIL THEY MATCH THE STOCK. IF THE STOCK IS TOO DARK, PUT ANOTHER COAT OF DYE ON THE HAND GUARDS RUB WITH WOOL, AND SEE IF THEY MATCH. IF THEY ARE STILL TOO LIGHT, RUB THE STOCK WITH WOOL WHERE THE HAND GUARDS FIT ON THE STOCK, AND LIGHTEN THE STOCK UNTIL IT MATCHES THE HAND GUARDS. I HAVE FOUND THAT THE COLOR IS NOT CONSISTENT IN WOOD, AND PART OF A STOCK CAN BE LIGHTER OR DARKER FROM ANOTHER PART OF IT. WITH A LITTLE EXPERIMENTATION, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO MATCH THE STOCK AND HAND GUARDS.

29. AFTER THIS MATCHING/RUBBING IS DONE, RUB LOW-GLOSS TUNG OIL ON THE WOOD. THIS WILL SEAL IN THE DYE.
RUB ON 1 COAT, LET IT DRY FOR 20 MINUTES, THEN RUB OFF THE EXCESS. PUT THE STOCK IN A SUNNY PLACE, OR ON A HOT-AIR VENT IN THE HOUSE, OR ON TOP OF A RADIATOR. LEAVE THE STOCK THERE FOR 2 DAYS.
REPEAT THE PROCESS FOR THE NEXT 3 COATS.

30. HOW MANY COATS TO PUT ON? I NORMALLY PUT ON 4.

31. IF THE WOOD IS TOO SHINY, RUB IT LIGHTLY WITH #0000 STEEL WOOL.

32. APPLY A NEW COAT OF TUNG OIL EVERY 12 MONTHS.
THE PROCESS IS NOW COMPLETE, AND THE STOCK SHOULD LOOK BETTER THAN WHEN IT BEGAN. THESE ARE ALL THE STEPS I TAKE, AND CHARGE $55 TO DO.


And GarandOwner, all the numbers check out that I understand, and the stock does have the proper stamps on them (2: Circle P and I think it's called Ordinance Acceptance Stamp)
 
If the CMP sold it to you as service grade, refinishing the stock doesn't make it correct grade, and I wouldn't try to sell it as such.
 
Here are some pictures of my Service Garand that could now be considered a "correct":

Really?

From the CMP site:

Service Grade Rifles show less wear and better appearance than Field or Rack Grades. Good to very good condition. Rifle wear will be exhibited by worn and mixed colors of the parkerized finish; there may be some minor pitting on the metal parts; wood will be either Walnut, Birch, Beech or other variety and will be basically sound but may have minor hairline cracks, dings, scratches and gouges; wood may not match in color or type of wood; bores will be generally good with only minor imperfections; the barrel crown may be nicked, but the muzzle will gauge less than 3 and the throat erosion will gauge less than 5.


Correct Grade Rifles are similar to the Service Grade (above), but will show less wear and use. Correct Grade rifles will have all correct parts for the date of manufacture with 80% or better overall original metal finish. The stock and handguards will be of walnut and correct for the rifle but will have some dings, dents, scratches and marring of the wood finish. Stocks will have the appropriate original inspector's cartouche. The rifle bore will be very good with no significant defects and with a throat erosion of less than 4 and a muzzle wear of 2 or less.

There is a lot more to it than how pretty the stock looks.
 
Yes guys, I know this. The rifle that I got from the CMP was classified as a service grade. However the metal was in excellent shape, all the marked parts were appropriately time stamped and SA marked, and the throat=2 and muzzle=2.

I'm guessing that the stock condition was the reason it was classified as "Service" grade. The stock was HIDEOUS! :what: I've seen "Rack" grade wood that looked in better condition at the CMP South store. I was initially disappointed that the CMP would sell a Garand with a stock in that condition. However, after the stock got the treatment, it didn't have any cracks, and it now looks and feels solid. :) So I will now say that my initial assessment of CMP was in error. :eek:

By the way, This is all really mute, since I have NO intentions of selling it. Ever. :D
 
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You have a beautiful rifle you can be proud of. Shoot hell out of it.

However, on closely re-examining the picture you posted, I believe your rifle may be one of the defective ones, with the notorious and dangerous "eighth round ping".

You might want to lash it down to an old tire or something, and test fire it with a LONG string. If on the eighth round a large scrap of metal is ejected along with the spent case, making a distinctive "PING!" sound, then your rifle is defective, and should be shipped to me immediately.

Hopefully yours is okay...
 
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