Help with front sight for 58 Remmie

[Oohrah!]

Apparently dropped my Pietta 58 Rem, because found the front sight bent over. When trying to straighten it just snapped off. It always shot high, but now a proper sight picture is 1.5 ft high at 15 yds.

I use this for Cowboy shooting, so need to adjust for just 15-20yds. Unlike the
Colts, the rear sight is on the frame, so limited ability to notch down the rear. Any suggestions on how to build up or replace the front sight?

 

[rodwha]

I'm assuming this is a Pietta model, or at least one with a press fit sight. From what I've read there are people who will dovetail an Uberti sight in its place giving them the ability to adjust the drift, which is what I'm considering as it prints a few inches to the left at 15 yds.

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

rodwha's suggestion is very good if you want to adjust to point of aim after installation.
Another option is to replace with a coin or even a steel washer that you can then blue.

 

[Saddlebag Preacher]

I bought this German Silver rifle sight from Dixie Gun works and had it dovetailed in. I was surprised that I didn't need to adjust the height, it shoots POA at 25 yards.

 

[4v50 Gary]

If it's not dovetailed, you can always silver solder another one on.

 

[Oohrah!]

The base is cylindrical and it looks like it is press fit into the top of the barrel. I may try building it up with JB Weld first.

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

While silver solder is stronger, even using soft solder/ plumbing solder likely will hold a new blade sight in place better than the original was.

 

[rodwha]

Does applying heat not effect the metal or the finish?

My grandpa had an old Ford Falcon Ranchero that he added a leaf spring to and used it as his first A/C vehicle. That little straight 6 was pushed hard and burned the metal on the hood. He kept repainting it but this bluish color kept coming through.

 

[44 Dave]

I bought this German Silver rifle sight from Dixie Gun works and had it dovetailed in. I was surprised that I didn't need to adjust the height, it shoots POA at 25 yards.View attachment 761582

The reason I only have1 Remy is the front sight is not holster or belt friendly. Like your blade sight!

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

Does applying heat not effect the metal or the finish?...

Soldering doesn't need to get hot enough affect the metal in a negative way, but you want to remove the finish where you are soldering.

A soldered on blade sight is going to look better than a JB Weld molded sight even if it is cold blued.

 

[rodwha]

The reason I only have1 Remy is the front sight is not holster or belt friendly. Like your blade sight!

I've thought about a brass blade front sight instead of a traditional Remington style sight.

 

[Crawdad1]

The reason I only have1 Remy is the front sight is not holster or belt friendly. Like your blade sight!

That's the reason I have no Remingtons. The Colt's brass blade can be seen even in thick woods whereas the Remington's thin front iron sight is impossible to see. But you could always by another front sight. Part #37

http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/acce...rts/pietta-1858-remington-revolver-parts.html

 

[shunka]

One can find a plethora of Front sight options, including brass and steel, at one of my favorite vendors, TOTW

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/874/1?PageSize=100

I myself like to keep a half-dozen of these little gems on hand for whatever needs a new front blade:

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/874/1/FS-CA-1I

This gives one a "driftable-for-windage" front sight similar to the Uberti.
It takes less than an hour to file a dovetail into a barrel and tap this beauty into place,
after which one can spend a few enjoyable sessions "shooting and filing" to get it to the right height then swab with cold blue or leave bright.

If you've never filed a dovetail, there are even jigs to help
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_96_220_675&products_id=13083
http://www.jedediah-starr.com/closeup.asp?cid=90&pid=918&offset=0


here is a video to help:



hope this helps
shunka

 

[Oohrah!]

I might give that a try, thanks.

 

[rodwha]

Does the steel that was altered need to be blued? What keeps water from penetrating in there and rusting?

I'm curious how one ensures the cut made is perfectly straight with every angle. I see the pitch will be right as long as the initial cut is correct.

 

[shunka]

Does the steel that was altered need to be blued? What keeps water from penetrating in there and rusting?

I'm curious how one ensures the cut made is perfectly straight with every angle. I see the pitch will be right as long as the initial cut is correct.

Greetings My Good Rodwha
one can set up the barrel in a good vice (with lead or copper or hardwood pads), using a level, and then use a jig ( even home-made)
to ensure that the file cuts are even and level. After enough practice it is not difficult to do free-hand.

Then using a "safe-file" ( ie a triangular file with one side ground flat) one can cut the angles and use the cut-and-try method until a tight drive-in fit is achieved. File a little and try-fit is the way to go. If one has a drill press and x-y vice a dremel dovetail bit works well. Practice on scrap first.

If one has never done it before, getting learning experience on scrap steel will help tremendously! One can even learn using scrap hadwood-
to get "the feel" for filing straight and level.

Once completed, I use cold blue, and oil. No rust in ~ 40 years.

In a few cases on muzzleloading rifles, I had to "build up" a very loose dovetail someone else had cut. If the cut is "too deep" one can solder shims of copper or brass to the base of the sight and they won't show. If cut "too wide" it is another story . Don't let Bubba take a welder to the barrel to "build it back up" - it takes a fine hand with a MIG to do that well ..... I'll have to post some "bubba " photos....

hope this helps
shunka

 

[shunka]

Addendum:
for your educational pleasure here is another excellent step-by-step Howto by Omnivore
http://1858remington.com/discuss/index.php/topic,10160.0.html

yhs
shunka

 

[shunka]

here is an example of a "bubba welded on" barrel.
sometimes one can grind & file and recut the dovetail...
sometimes not.

this one is in my scrap heap junk box chest of precious parts, waiting to be cut down .... perhaps into a Capt Schaeffer's Colt ...

yhs
shunka

 

[AJumbo]

OP, if you decide to cut you own dovetail, bear two things in mind- first, the angle of a hardware store triangular file may not math that of your sight base. You may have to invest in a real dovetail file. I did, and never regretted the purchase, but be prepared for some minor sticker shock. Second, you're better off cutting a tight dovetail and filing the sight to fit than you are cutting a loose dovetail and having to stake the sight in place; this is the voice of heartbroken experience.

 

[rodwha]

here is an example of a "bubba welded on" barrel.
sometimes one can grind & file and recut the dovetail...
sometimes not.

this one is in my scrap heap junk box chest of precious parts, waiting to be cut down .... perhaps into a Capt Schaeffer's Colt ...

yhs
shunka

Damn! That's more Bubba than I thought you'd post.

 

[theotherwaldo]

My only original 1858 had what looked like a silver half-dime coin that had been cut in two, the cut edge hammered wider, then soldered to the barrel. Looked good, probably worked OK. Dad sold it before I could shoot it.