Help with possible Model 36 purchase

[FW]

I have had a desire to obtain an older plain model 36 for a while. I need a little information.

I have found one recently in a local shop in decent shape, maybe 95%. Basic blued 36 probably made in the mid 80's. Dirty with a little barely noticalbe patch of pitting on the trigger guard.

They had a $300 price tag on it. Refering to various value guides, the "value" of this in the condition it appears to be in to me is aroundo $250, however, I can't find many that low in price? Can they be found easily, or is $300 and higher reasonable for a basic blue steel j frame?

I already have a new airweight. It is said these older steel frames are not rated for +P ( and it is not stampled on the gun that way either). What is the word on this? Since most "defense" ammo is +p, how big of a deal is this? I had a gun smith say it wouldn't hurt to fire a few in these. I read about the famous 158 grain lead semi wadcutter, but aren't these loads +P?

Is a new aluminum framed j frame actually tougher than the older steel framed since the have +p stampled on them? It is a little unrealistic to ask, perhaps academic, but hypotheticly, if a person was to fire thousands of light loads through both, which would get loose first?

The few extra ounces of weight, the nice blued finish, hammer mounted firing pin, and lack of an internal lock are all very appealing. Is there a reason not to get this? Intended purpose would be to shoot for practice (same feel, but a little heavier than the airweight) and occasional carry if necessary (the airweight serves the purpose already).

Or would a person be better off purchasing a new steel Taurus which would cost this much for a new one and still feel the same?

 

[Cosmoline]

I've shot a great deal of LSWCHP +P's out of Model 36's and sibling revolvers with no problems. They're solid steel and while not officially rated for +P they can tolerate the loads. I would not put the +P+ loads in them, though, as those are for .357 frame revolvers.

Back in the day, nobody rated handguns for "+P". The companies like to scare you about older firearms because they need to sell the new hotness. But solid steel is solid steel, and I'll trust it more than I'd trust an alloy any day of the week.

 

[ugaarguy]

I have had a desire to obtain an older plain model 36 for a while. I need a little information.

I have found one recently in a local shop in decent shape, maybe 95%. Basic blued 36 probably made in the mid 80's. Dirty with a little barely noticalbe patch of pitting on the trigger guard.

They had a $300 price tag on it. Refering to various value guides, the "value" of this in the condition it appears to be in to me is aroundo $250, however, I can't find many that low in price? Can they be found easily, or is $300 and higher reasonable for a basic blue steel j frame?

FW, a quick search of GunsAmerica shows no M36 for less than $300. Figure another $50 for shipping & dealer fee ($25 ea) and in the current market that M36 at $300 looks to be a good price. Is this a locally owned store? If it is can you make a cash offer? If yes to both offer them $250 cash to start. You may get them down to $275-$300 out the door. You already said you desire to own one. If you think it's a fair price for what you're getting then go for it.

The few extra ounces of weight, the nice blued finish, hammer mounted firing pin, and lack of an internal lock are all very appealing. Is there a reason not to get this? Intended purpose would be to shoot for practice (same feel, but a little heavier than the airweight) and occasional carry if necessary (the airweight serves the purpose already).

I prefer the older pre-lock, pre-MIM, hammer mounted firing pin S&Ws. There is no reason to get it. Again if you like it jump on it.

Or would a person be better off purchasing a new steel Taurus which would cost this much for a new one and still feel the same?

No, not even close. A Taurus will not feel the same. Your newer S&W will be close, but still not the same. S&W still makes a very good revolver, and Taurus also makes good revolvers that are a good value for the price in new guns. However, as you will discover, the older S&Ws are just flat out built better. The level of fit in finish is on the older guns is of a higher order. From my experiences with the three older S&Ws I own I think they, the old used S&Ws, are the best value on the revolver market.

I'm not sure on the ammo questions, but there are some real S&W experts here on THR. I'm sure they'll be here soon to give a definitive answer.

Lastly, see the stickied thread "Jim March's Used Revolver Checkout" found at the top of the revolvers section here on THR. Print it out and take it with you so you can verify the revolver's mechanical condition. If it passes the checkout I'd go for it.

 

[XavierBreath]

At $300, a functional, good condition Model 36 is a good value and a fair deal. One must remember that printed Blue Books have prices at least two years old, even the latest edition. That is because the research must be done. They are only a guide. Also, the Blue Book relies heavily on Supica's SCS&W, which is now seven years old. Mr. Supica has the updated version ready for publication. Expect some price escalation accross the board.

Used J framed Smiths in particular have gone up in price as a result of laws being passed allowing concealed carry. They are a great CCW piece, and the value is there. $300 for a blued and pinned J frame is not unreasonable. It's not a buy it right now price, but it is fair. You can pay an extra $50 over what you want to spend, and get the gun, or you can hold out on that $50 and keep looking, possibly for a year or two. What's it worth to you? Perhaps you can negotiate the price down a bit. Unless you negotiated him down to $300 already, he will likely jump on $275 cash, and might even accept $250 if the moon is right. If you want the gun, offer $250 in cash on the counter that he can see, with an extra $25 in each pocket in case you have to up the ante.

I agree with Ugaarguy, a Taurus gives a decent value on the dollar when purchased new. They do not hold value for resale though, and they do not approximate the feel of an older Smith & Wesson.

 

[Confederate]

I say wait and see if you can find a better deal on a 36. I wouldn't buy a Taurus based on my experience. I hate pitting; it shows blatant disregard of a firearm.