help with reloading 40s&w with berry bullets

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rogm1017

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Hi
I am a newbie reloader starting to reload on .40 I was given some berry 180 gr FP. I will be using win 231 powder and win primers. I have the lyman reloading book but there is really nothing listed on plated bullets. The only listing for 180 gr is the JHP. Does anyone have a good starting load for this type of bullet. I have also read where it is not good to crimp to much with plated bullets. I will be using the Dillion 550 press. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
thanks walkalong...i assume ranier plated are comp. to berry bullets . Ranier says to use data for lead bullets. Just need to find data for 180 gr using win 231 powder. I will keep searching. Thanks again.
 
You will have no problems if you stay at 85% or less of jacketed data with W-231. I stay around the 85% myself with a couple of powders and the Berrys 180 Gr in .40 with no issues.

5.0 Grs of Universal gets me around 875 FPS with the 180 Gr Berrys using a WSP primer @ 1.150 O.A.L. from a XDSC. It gives about 925 from a 4 3/4" Witness Elite Match.

5.2 Grs of Universal gets me around 875 FPS with the 180 Gr Berrys using a WSP primer @ 1.150 O.A.L. from a 3" XDSC.

950ish FPS from a 5" barrel is all I want for a range load with 180 Gr bullets. very pleasent in a full size pistol.

These loads are safe in my guns using my load procedure. Reduce 10% and work up.
 
Regarding crimping of plated bullets, do not crimp at all. The plating can easily delaminate from the lead. The copper plate is only 4 thousandths of an inch thick and it's dead soft copper. Just straighten the flair of the mouth case. Crimping adds nothing to the tension between the bullet and casing unless you have a cannelure!
 
My take is slightly different. I have achieved better chambering using a Lee taper crimp die set so lightly that is does not leave a band or mark around the waist of the Berry bullet. Check your work by knocking out some test bullets with your kinetic hammer.

Once set, you can leave the TCD set right there for all your lead and jacketed bullets.
 
While load date for lead and plated is about the same you will notice a difference between the speeds generated. In other words a theoretical load of 4.5 gr powder will make a lead bullet go faster than a plated bullet. Has something to do either with the slipperyness of the materials or actual diameter differences between the two. I think that my lead is bigger in diameter slightly so it generates a higher pressure and goes faster.
 
They Berrys can take a little bit of taper crimp just fine. A light taper crimp is all the .40 needs anyway. I have used a pretty heavy taper crimp on some Berrys in a couple of revolver loadings trying things out. In some cases it will shoot well, and in some it won't. Velocity has a lot to do with it as well.
 
thanks to all who responded. It's great having a resource such as this forum to get questions answered. As a newbie, I'm sure I will plenty more questions .
thanks again.
 
My take is slightly different. I have achieved better chambering using a Lee taper crimp die set so lightly that is does not leave a band or mark around the waist of the Berry bullet. Check your work by knocking out some test bullets with your kinetic hammer.

Once set, you can leave the TCD set right there for all your lead and jacketed bullets.

Pretty much the approach I took when first loading plated as well. I adjusted my taper crimp (both in a Lee FCD and a Dillon taper crimp) by seating, crimping, bullet-pulling/checking with the final result a gentle taper that leaves no mark on the plated bullets. Once so adjusted for the plated bulles, no change is required for jacketed.
 
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