help

[XLR8R]

I was searching the web for info on this gun and happened across your forum. I was hoping for help identifying the model number of this gun and maybe an approximate value.





To state the obvious, its a blued SW .357. I was told it was a police issue, but am unsure. I'm pretty sure the number on the bottom of the butt is the serial number, but not positive. The only other numbers I could find on it were under the handles (which are not stock from what I was told.) On the right side of the handle it has 3138 and on the left side of the handle are the numbers 49X36. 49X36 is also on the arm that swings the revolver part out. Where is the model number located? Idea of it's worth? Any help is appreciated.

 

[GreenFurniture]

The model number is on the frame where you swing out the cylinder.

I would bet it's a 586.

Worth between $250 and $350 depending on overall condition.

 

[Black Knight]

You have a fine revolver there. You are right about the serial number and I concur it is S&W model 586. It should last a lifetime with proper maintenance.

 

[rem1187a]

Old Fuff will have the answers. Seems to know s&w's better than the company.

 

[loud-mouth shnook]

Definately a 586.
If you swing out the cylinder and look into the exposed part of the frame under the breech, you'll see, among other things, either "mod 586" or "mod 586- something." That dash number, combined with the ser. no., is the info you need to get a D.O.B. If you post that data here (substitute the last 3 digits of the ser. no. with an "x" for each), we can tell you when she was made.
Congrats. The 586 is my other favorite Smith. IMHO the most shootable .357 out there.

(edited to add: those smooth target grips are not what's usually encountered on the 586. Very nice.)

 

[.41Dave]

It's an S&W model 586. Loud-mouth is right about where to find the model # and serial #. Value varies according to location and condition, but $350 is in the ballpark. Prices on all used S&Ws have been climbing lately so for one in good condition like yours appears to be, the $250 previously quoted is too low.

 

[XLR8R]

I guess I'm just blind. The model # was exactly where you guys said it was and you were right, its a 586. Serial # AJY6XXX. A DOB (dont know what that is?) would be most excellent.

As far as condition, are there any major factors in determining it? I guess it's been holstered, as there is minor blueing wear at the end of the barrel. It does not have much of a ring around the cylinder. If you want close-ups of specific areas, I'd be glad to post them.

Curious, any idea of what the original grips looked like? As far as the grips on it, are they really nice? Cause they dont appeal to me.

Thx for the prompt help folks. It's much appreciated.

 

[Starter52]

I agree with you on the grips (correctly called "stocks"), XLR8R. I never liked smooth wood stocks on revolvers.

You can replace them, no problem. Any wood stocks or rubber grips that fit the "K frame square butt" S&W revolvers will fit your gun. (Your gun is an "L" frame, but it uses the "K" frame grip).

Check your local shop for replacements, or click over to eBay. Tons of replacements available. Pachmayr Gripper Grips are my favorite for a "shooting" gun. Very comfortable. Hogue grips are good too.

 

[XLR8R]

I like the looks of the Hogue grips. Is there a particular one that would be good for smallish, fat hands?

If I were to get a holster for this, what would be better? Leather or nylon? Is one less likely to rub the blueing off?

sorry foir all the noobish questions, but I'm a noob.

 

[dfariswheel]

The grips on your gun are S&W factory grips that someone sanded the checkering off of, and reshaped slightly.

Hogue has a wide choice of options on their grips, such as with or without finger grooves, fancy wood caps on the butt, and with or without checkering.
The Hogue Mono-Grip seems to fit people with smaller hands very well, and the grips look really nice.

For holsters, a GOOD fitted leather holster will wear the finish less, but will still wear it.
ALL holsters do. The only way to prevent holster wear is to not use a holster at all or even to not handle the gun.

The nylon models are usually more "one size fits most" and these tend to wear the finish more, since they allow the gun to move around in the holster. The friction wears the blue faster.

A holster lined with a suede or soft leather liner actually wears the finish more, due to the soft surface making more contact with the gun, and the tendency for dirt and grit to get embedded in the soft surface and abrade the finish even worse.

The holster that will wear the finish the least is a good quality HARD leather holster fitted to THAT particular make and model of revolver, and which has a smooth inner surface.
Most better holster makers give the inner side of the leather a hard, smooth surface, or they line the holster with the same type of leather the outside is made of.
These better holsters help prevent wear due to the fact that the gun is a close fit and it can't shift or move around in the holster.

 

[Bullet Bob]

Are you sure it's "AJY. . . "? I don't see that in the 3rd edition of the Standard Catalogue of Smith & Wesson, but perhaps I'm blind. A better place to look is on the bottom of the grip frame, after you take off the stocks/grips/handles. It's usually clearer there.

A 586 is a great gun, and yours is in great shape. You don't need to worry about a thing, just shoot it and enjoy it.

Some of the first 586's did have a problem with the firing pin hole, so if it's a 586 "no-dash" (i.e., 586-1), there might be an "M" stamped on the gun indicating it's been back to the factory for a fix. Many people didn't return theirs, and have had no problems.

 

[XLR8R]

Yep, it's AJY60XX. I took the grip off to cofirm. It's also got the M stamp on the cylinder arm or whatever its called.
and BTW Bob, I'm in Welcome, NC. just south of Winston-Salem.

I do like the looks of those grips you mentioned dfariswheel. Is $23 a good price for those?
I'll look into the holster. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Bullet Bob]

Well, I still can't find an AJY prefix, but perhaps someone with more knowlege and/or better eyes will come along soon. Since it's a 568 "no dash" it would have been produced between 1981 and 1986, when the 586-1 came along (by the way, the 586-1 introduced the "floating hand"; most people liked the version in the 586 much better).

Probably 1985, as serial numbers began with AHAxxxx in that year, and ended witth ALC.

I pass by the sign for Welcome going down 52 to the PHA range, which is not very often these days I'm afraid.

 

[XLR8R]

How many digits are in the serial number? As I look at this thing closer, it appears the A is smaller and a little further spaced than the rest. Could this have been added in both places (butt and cylinder arm) when it was returned to get the M stamp? If thats the case, the serial number would be JY60XX.

I tried to take pics but they are kinda blurry. I couldnt get in on it tight with my crappy 4 MP digicam.