CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I’ve always wanted to do a tutorial on making a holster. I’m not exactly the world’s foremost expert on this subject but I get a lot of questions from folks interested in doing leatherwork. I encourage as much as possible but it’s difficult to relate the process with words only. I hope you enjoy it, maybe learn a few things, including an appreciation for the work that goes into custom leather goods. So follow along as we build this holster!
The first step is to create the pattern. We start with a sixgun similar enough to create a pattern around. In this case, it’s my never before seen Buckeye .38-40. We’ll allow a bit of extra room for the five-shot gun’s longer ejector and not worry about that again until it comes to wet forming much later. We start by taking a 14” manila folder and laying the sixgun along the fold, sights down.
We then gently roll the sixgun over on its side and trace it out.
Now we’ll begin drawing up the pattern. Since this is not an original design, we will base the pattern off an existing example. In this case, a stitched toe Threepersons for a large frame Blackhawk. I’ll trace this pattern on the folder and then modify it as needed to fit. This will be an open toe holster so the shape of the toe, as well as the overall length, will be modified.
Once satisfied with the pattern, I’ll fold it and cut out the areas that are symmetrical, such as the mainseam and toe. Here we can see why the open toe version is less expensive, everything about the process is easier due to the straight mainseam and toe. Then I’ll unfold it to cut out the areas that are asymmetrical such as the throat and belt loop.
Here’s the finished pattern.
Next I’ll find a suitable section of 8-9oz vegetable tanned cowhide that is without flaws like scrapes or pithy areas of the flesh side. A smooth flesh side is just as important as the hair side. I don’t typically shy away from scars because it lends some rustic character but those bad enough to affect the integrity of the finished product are avoided. In this case, there is a big scrape to the left of my pattern and that is what we’re trying to avoid here.
I do a rough tracing and cut the section away from the rest of the hide with a rotary cutter to make it easier to manage.
Hides are stored rolled up so I then dampen the leather on both sides with distilled water to help flatten it out. It also makes it easier to cut.
Now I can trace out my pattern. I use red ink because it is more easily covered by the dye if it gets anywhere it’s not supposed to.
Pattern traced out.
Now I’ll cut it out, using a generic rotary cutter and a stainless steel straight edge for the straight cuts…..
…..and an assortment of knives for the rest. Most other patterns have few straight edges.
Done!
Now I begin my line work. This is accomplished with a stitching groover, a tool that cuts a groove at a pre-determined distance from the edge, for the thread to lay in to protect it from abrasion and it also makes for a cleaner looking finished product. It is also used to frame out the stamping pattern. First is the stitching groove about 3/16” from the edge, then the border for the first line of stamping about another 1/8” to the inside. Tool is an inexpensive Tandy. I keep several set for different widths. The line along the fold is accomplished with a freehand groover using a straight edge.
The first step is to create the pattern. We start with a sixgun similar enough to create a pattern around. In this case, it’s my never before seen Buckeye .38-40. We’ll allow a bit of extra room for the five-shot gun’s longer ejector and not worry about that again until it comes to wet forming much later. We start by taking a 14” manila folder and laying the sixgun along the fold, sights down.
We then gently roll the sixgun over on its side and trace it out.
Now we’ll begin drawing up the pattern. Since this is not an original design, we will base the pattern off an existing example. In this case, a stitched toe Threepersons for a large frame Blackhawk. I’ll trace this pattern on the folder and then modify it as needed to fit. This will be an open toe holster so the shape of the toe, as well as the overall length, will be modified.
Once satisfied with the pattern, I’ll fold it and cut out the areas that are symmetrical, such as the mainseam and toe. Here we can see why the open toe version is less expensive, everything about the process is easier due to the straight mainseam and toe. Then I’ll unfold it to cut out the areas that are asymmetrical such as the throat and belt loop.
Here’s the finished pattern.
Next I’ll find a suitable section of 8-9oz vegetable tanned cowhide that is without flaws like scrapes or pithy areas of the flesh side. A smooth flesh side is just as important as the hair side. I don’t typically shy away from scars because it lends some rustic character but those bad enough to affect the integrity of the finished product are avoided. In this case, there is a big scrape to the left of my pattern and that is what we’re trying to avoid here.
I do a rough tracing and cut the section away from the rest of the hide with a rotary cutter to make it easier to manage.
Hides are stored rolled up so I then dampen the leather on both sides with distilled water to help flatten it out. It also makes it easier to cut.
Now I can trace out my pattern. I use red ink because it is more easily covered by the dye if it gets anywhere it’s not supposed to.
Pattern traced out.
Now I’ll cut it out, using a generic rotary cutter and a stainless steel straight edge for the straight cuts…..
…..and an assortment of knives for the rest. Most other patterns have few straight edges.
Done!
Now I begin my line work. This is accomplished with a stitching groover, a tool that cuts a groove at a pre-determined distance from the edge, for the thread to lay in to protect it from abrasion and it also makes for a cleaner looking finished product. It is also used to frame out the stamping pattern. First is the stitching groove about 3/16” from the edge, then the border for the first line of stamping about another 1/8” to the inside. Tool is an inexpensive Tandy. I keep several set for different widths. The line along the fold is accomplished with a freehand groover using a straight edge.
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