Home Re-finishing

[shell70634]

I have a 2 1/2 k frame revolver i would like to re-finish. I have been told home re-blueing is difficult. The gun has some engraving that i dont want to lose. Any ideas on a finish i can do at home that's easy and good looking. I wont be carrying this gun. It will probably remain in the safe til i want to play with the snubbies again. Any experience out there with the spray on / bake on finishes?

 

[Rpriestlyjr]

Without buying all of the expensive hot bluing stuff, you can rust blue it with minimal materials. I don't recommend any spray on bake on stuff. (might as well get a can of krylon)
The most important aspect of rust bluing is the metal prep. Be patient and just do it. It doesn't take long, although it is a little labor intensive and quite time consuming. (it takes several coats over a period of a week or so).
The finish is not a fine gloss, but will be on the matte side. This is relevant to how well you prep the steel. And it can be polished a little after.
The spray on stuff is just a paint that will coat the steel. Rust bluing reacts with the steel and produces a rust that essentially 'dyes' the steel. You won't lose any metal-to metal tolerances and it won't peel off.
The spray stuff works great for aluminum stuff, though. Like 10/22's, AR's, etc..


Jumper's Hit It! One thousand--Two thousand......

 

[Sunray]

"...I don't recommend any spray on bake on stuff. (might as well get a can of krylon)..." Ditto and it'll fill in the engraving.
Your options are cold bluing or sending it out to be hot blued. Cold bluing is really for touch ups, not for a whole firearm. Liquid cold bluing tends to give an uneven finish. There is a paste cold bluing that should be more even.

 

[dogbaloo]

95% (my guess) of the professional smiths out there who sell a poly coated gun use a K-Coat of Moly Resin process; the same that you can buy and use yourself. The results are mixed, but I'd venture to say the poor results come from poor prepping. Don't be put off by that. I would not be tempted to use an aerosol <sp?> however. If you choose a spray-n-bake, go the airbrush route.

And have fun!

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[coyote204]

I like the Duracoat product from Lauer Custom Weaponry. It is airbrush applied and is very durable with good preparation. Plus, it is a snap to refinish small areas if you scratch it. I finished a Swedish Mauser M94 with it and have had many good comments on the finish. There is also a great number of color options.

 

[Triaged]

I used Brownell's Oxpho-Blue on an old 870 Wingmaster of mine. ALL of the bluing was gone where the slide was and the corners of the frame were all brite. While the Oxpho didn't make it look brand new like sending it out would...it did get it about 90% there for very little time/money. My understanding is that Oxpho was the most durable cold bluing (you put it on with steel wool) and that was my choice for using it. The coloring turned out a good match for the new factory barrel that I put on it and it was even in the fact that it made all the areas of the gun a few stages darker. The not so worn areas look brand new...and the very worn areas look a bit newer.

Overall for the money and time involved I was very happy with the results from Oxpho-Blue.

 

[shell70634]

Thanks for the info. Since I have a little more money than common sense, I think I will buy a book on blueing and try the professional way. I'll deduct the cost on my taxes as educational expense. Gazing at the Brownell's catalog always gives the false sense of hope. It will be right up there with my auto body work experience.

 

[Jim Watson]

Engraving?
Decorative high coverage scroll engraving?
Name, agency, logo, etc.?

If fancy engraving or if shallow jeweler's name or presentation inscription of sentimental value, I'd want it very professionally done. If you just must DIY, practice on a common piece first. Buing or plating finish quality depends on the quality of the polishing and it is all too easy to erase engraving.

 

[fecmech]

Shell--The actual "blueing" job is really just time and temperature. The important parts are the polish & prep work including a thorough degreasing befor placing the parts in the salts bath. I did a 1911 many moons ago in a stainless mixing bowl on the kitchen stove with a candy thermometer for temp control. The gun came out beautiful, it's all in the prep. Go for it. Nick

 

[Zrex]

poor results come from poor prepping

+1

This is true of any finish. Take your time with whatever you wish to do. Pay attention to proper prep and cleaning. This won't ensure a good finish, but lack of proper preperation will ensure a poor finish.

 

[shell70634]

Thank you for the advice. I will be sure to take photos before and after. Maybe I will find my 3rd career.