Homemade reactive targets

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Hunter125

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I am wanting to make some homemade reactive targets that will last more than a couple range sessions. I'm thinking about the steel plate targets and possibly a spinner, etc. Does anyone have suggestions or pictures of how to do this?
 
I've had the most enjoyment out of a 1' piece of steel I-beam. Drill a couple holes in the crossmember and thread in some rope for a carry handle. Handgun bullet velocities don't do much to it and it makes a satisfying PING when hit. Get different sizes and you can literally make music.

"Mary had a little lamb...".

Be sure to set them out past 40 yards though. FMJ can come back at you. I use lead so it just splatters sideways.
 
I had a coworker tell me he made one that would swing on a horizontal bar and would come to rest at a 45 degree downward angle so that whatever hit it would be directed downwards. He uses it at a distance for .223. Would something like that be safe for pistols? If it is directed downward, would it be safer at closer distances? What I'm going for is a setup like what Hickok45 has, but it seems like his closer targets are a lot closer than 40 yards. Is that dangerous?
 
Tiny water bottles.
Soda cans with water.

We dont get much of our deposit back once I get into the recycle bin :D.

Hollow point 22 (or SP'06) can turn any container filled with water into a bottle rocket!
 
I had a coworker tell me he made one that would swing on a horizontal bar and would come to rest at a 45 degree downward angle so that whatever hit it would be directed downwards. He uses it at a distance for .223. Would something like that be safe for pistols? If it is directed downward, would it be safer at closer distances? What I'm going for is a setup like what Hickok45 has, but it seems like his closer targets are a lot closer than 40 yards. Is that dangerous?

I haven’t been shooting steel all that long, so take this for whatever you think it’s worth… IME, pistol bullets (9mm to .45acp) fragment on the plate. There is a small disc left intact; it’s mostly jacket and is typically with in a ft of the target. I have a couple hard mounted targets that are slightly angled forward; others are swinging plates that are just about vertical. I’ve had no issues, but I don’t shoot closer than ~20yds. As always, wear shooting glasses!
 
Try getting a hold of a couple saw horses, and some 1/4" steel scrap metal pieces, about 6" wide x 16" long. Google "MY AREA scrap yard" or checking the yellow pages should yield some results.

Next, go to home depot and buy some heavy duty door hinges and some 1/4" carriage bolts & nuts. Drilling through the steel will take some time, but the wooden saw horses should just take a minute.

Fasten the steel plates so that they are hanging below the cross bar on the saw horses, set it up, and start shooting. The added benefit is since the plate(s) swing to the rear, most rounds are deflected downward.

You can even tape a target to the front of them.

**Note: a .22LR won't do to much to the saw horse if you hit the cross bar, but larger calibers and/or hollow points, etc., can make short work of a 2x4.
 
You should read some of the steel plate target threads and heed the warnings about injuries due to ricochet and fragments.

Unless you have a source of AR500 armor plate that you can get for cheap you should look at purchasing a target from the group buy at snipers hide from jcsteeltargets.
 
I have several 1.75" thick steel plates with chain welded to the sides.They hang from a 4x4 frame that is sunk in the ground.I keep a couple Quick-links to repair the chains when my buddy comes out to shoot.Three sizes approximate the vital zones of a coyote,deer,and elk.This is on private land,of course,and we can back off to over 500 yards.Works pretty well.
 
Throw a few tennis balls on the ground and start shooting at them. They bounce around pretty good when they're hit. It doesn't matter if you're shooting .22 or .45 or anything in between. Just make sure you're always shooting in a safe direction.
 
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