How beneficial is the speedometer in you car? As long as you stay close to starting load data, or drive like a 90 year old lady you'll probably never need either. But without a chronograph or speedometer, you have no idea how fast, or slow you are.
Once you start getting above mid level loads you will often find that you are getting speeds much faster than the loading manuals suggest. You could be over max based on pressure even though you are 2-3 grains below what is listed as a max load in the manual. While it isn't perfect knowing the bullet speed is the easiest way to predict pressure.
With certain powders and bullets my 300 WSM is getting 100 fps more speed than the manuals list with 2 gr less than a max load. I have to drop down 3 gr below what is listed as a max load to be safe. No way I'd know that without a chronograph. Other powders will still be below the max speed listed even with a max charge of powder.
Traditional pressure signs many try to use don't show up until you hit 70,000 psi. It is like driving a car without a speedometer, but a warning light that comes on when you hit 100 mph. You don't know you're too fast until you are WAY too fast. A chronograph or speedometer lets you know when you're approaching the speed limit before you get there.
I'm not one to hot rod my loads and go over the max loads suggested. But at the same time I have no use for loads 200-300 fps slower than typical factory loads either. If I buy a 30-06 I don't want 300 Savage speeds, if I did I'd have bought a 300 Savage. I don't have to shoot my 30-06 at 2500 fps to get excellent accuracy, there are loads at 3000-3050 fps that will shoot just as well that are every bit as safe to shoot. But I'm not gonna play around with loads approaching 3000 fps in a 30-06 without knowing exactly what speeds I'm getting. If I start approaching 3100 fps, then I'm probably getting into the danger zone and it is time to back off.
You don't need a high end chronograph, some of the sub $100 units are accurate to within 15-20 fps, that is close enough. At that price it is not a bad idea to own one.
Once you start getting above mid level loads you will often find that you are getting speeds much faster than the loading manuals suggest. You could be over max based on pressure even though you are 2-3 grains below what is listed as a max load in the manual. While it isn't perfect knowing the bullet speed is the easiest way to predict pressure.
With certain powders and bullets my 300 WSM is getting 100 fps more speed than the manuals list with 2 gr less than a max load. I have to drop down 3 gr below what is listed as a max load to be safe. No way I'd know that without a chronograph. Other powders will still be below the max speed listed even with a max charge of powder.
Traditional pressure signs many try to use don't show up until you hit 70,000 psi. It is like driving a car without a speedometer, but a warning light that comes on when you hit 100 mph. You don't know you're too fast until you are WAY too fast. A chronograph or speedometer lets you know when you're approaching the speed limit before you get there.
I'm not one to hot rod my loads and go over the max loads suggested. But at the same time I have no use for loads 200-300 fps slower than typical factory loads either. If I buy a 30-06 I don't want 300 Savage speeds, if I did I'd have bought a 300 Savage. I don't have to shoot my 30-06 at 2500 fps to get excellent accuracy, there are loads at 3000-3050 fps that will shoot just as well that are every bit as safe to shoot. But I'm not gonna play around with loads approaching 3000 fps in a 30-06 without knowing exactly what speeds I'm getting. If I start approaching 3100 fps, then I'm probably getting into the danger zone and it is time to back off.
You don't need a high end chronograph, some of the sub $100 units are accurate to within 15-20 fps, that is close enough. At that price it is not a bad idea to own one.