How can I polish scratches out? (smith and wesson 64)

[just one question]

Sorry I can't post pics, no digital camera.

. There are some scratches/blemishes on my S&W 64, Well 3 really. One is towards the end of the end of the barrel, not holster wear or anything like that. Another on the cylinder (no not the drag line ) and one behind the cylinder.


. Only one is a scratch though the other 2 are small circular blemishes both are smaller then a dime.... other then that the gun is mint! (They are hard to see in normal light, but I want them outa' there)



. I know the answer is probably obvious...but I want to ask first; I have a habit of screwing things up when it comes to playing with the finishes of.... anything really (thank god I got my model 10 looking presentable again)



. It is a pencil barrel with no lock, Got it for 285 yesterday with box and papers, Following one of Xavier breaths gun show rules. (Thanks if you are reading this!)


I apoligize for any grammar errors.

 

[Brian Williams]

If you have not worked with metal before a nice (and getting rare) pencil barrel 64 is not the place to start. But that said, I use scotch brite pads on my 65 and I try to work with the existing grain of the scratches now on the gun. Here is mine, good luck, better take it easy and not mess up a good thing.

 

[PinnedAndRecessed]

In all honesty, I wouldn't mess with the finish at all. Stainless tends to scuff/scratch easily. If you use it at all, it's going to get scuffed.

I personally consider all such marks "character."

And yes, you can harm your revolver by buffing it.

I've heard of cases, for example, where owners of stainless revolvers would Flitz the black off of their cylinders. (You know, where the bullet exits the case.) They did it so often that they literally changed the cylinder-to-barrel
dimensions. Their guns began spitting lead, fire, etc. And accuracy was gone.

If you remove the scratches, they'll be back.

 

[just one question]

....

Well, I will leave it be for now...I dont want to screw the thing up like I did my win 94 (wasn't in good shape to begin with) or my other k frame.


I was using one of those blue pens, to touch up one spot on my model 10....it worked fine and looked better then before until I got the "bright" idea to buy a little container of that stuff and do the whole thing

 

[Brian Williams]

OBTW nice price on that 64, they run about $400 around here.

 

[Sistema1927]

I've heard of cases, for example, where owners of stainless revolvers would Flitz the black off of their cylinders. (You know, where the bullet exits the case.) They did it so often that they literally changed the cylinder-to-barrel
dimensions. Their guns began spitting lead, fire, etc. And accuracy was gone.

New one on me!

I have been using Flitz, and a soft cloth, with excellent results for many years. Maybe if you use Flitz with a Dremel tool you could destroy your cylinder, but it would take a whole lot more muscle than I use to cause damage.

I have a ~1973 vintage pencil barrel 64, and I don't hesitate to clean it up with Flitz and a soft cloth following a range session, just like I do my 686 and 642.

 

[just one question]

...

While we are on the subject.


If I sent one of my guns to get their restoration package. (I know the 64 was made after 1958, I am not sure about the other one...and it is the one I might do it with) Will they put a lawyer lock on it? or butcher it in general?(I recall a thread where some one claimed this happened)


And why won't this board let me indent?

 

[Sistema1927]

No, S&W will not "butcher" your gun or put a dreaded "lock" on it. Don't be afraid to use their restoration service.

 

[Barrel First]

Oh, please! You aren't going to hurt your 64 if you "clean" it up. Use what you usually use and take care not to thin the rollmarks. One of the great advantages to a stainless revolver is that you can make it look like new with careful scratch removal and polishing. Don't get carried away and you won't hurt its value at all.

Your alternative is to send it to S&W where they will do essentially what you can do...at custom-shop labor prices plus mandatory shipping each way. Just a guess would be an extra $150 for something you can do in your spare time if you don't get heavy-handed.

At what you paid for the 64, give it a shot!