Well, I went and bought a safe. My wife pointed out that the safe cost more than the guns inside, but that is another story. It is not very heavy and I do need to bolt it down. It has four holes in the bottom. Floor is concrete. I can mark the floor and move it out of the way to drill, but what kind of anchors do I use in the holes in the concrete? I assume the concrete is about 4 inches thick, do I use 4 inch lag bolts? Any help would be appreciated. I want to do this myself. Thanks
HOW do I bolt the safe down
- Thread starter jim357
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SDC
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You can use tapcon bolts, or maybe even a power-hammer to shoot threaded bolts into the floor; alternatively, it might be easier to place it next to a studded wall and use lag-bolts into the 2x4s of the wall.
Get a hammer drill...drill through the holes in the bottom of the safe a couple inches. Buy some redheads at the hardware store. Pound them in to the concrete.
When you're ready to move, open the safe and pound the redheads into the concrete until they're flush with the floor...move the safe.
Ed
When you're ready to move, open the safe and pound the redheads into the concrete until they're flush with the floor...move the safe.
Ed
a1abdj
Member
Don't mark and move the safe, you're just wasting time and muscle.
Place the safe where you want it, pull out the interior, and lean inside of it to drill your holes as it sits. Drive in the anchors shown in the post above, and snug it down. Make sure you turn the nut 1/4 turn, then let it rest a few seconds. This will make sure the anchor grips properly. Once you get about 20 foot pounds, you're good.
Place the safe where you want it, pull out the interior, and lean inside of it to drill your holes as it sits. Drive in the anchors shown in the post above, and snug it down. Make sure you turn the nut 1/4 turn, then let it rest a few seconds. This will make sure the anchor grips properly. Once you get about 20 foot pounds, you're good.
Fwiw most slabs will develop stress cracks and mostly they are not really foundation issues.
Just last week i pulled my carpet up in the living room because I am going with a laminate floor soon and i saw a stress rack about six feet long.
Once i get the other rooms carpeting pulled up i will be able to see exactly where i will be drilling for my new safe i am ordering.
I personally would not drill near the stress crack if at all possible.
By the way carpet that has been on your floor for several years is really nasty.
Just last week i pulled my carpet up in the living room because I am going with a laminate floor soon and i saw a stress rack about six feet long.
Once i get the other rooms carpeting pulled up i will be able to see exactly where i will be drilling for my new safe i am ordering.
I personally would not drill near the stress crack if at all possible.
By the way carpet that has been on your floor for several years is really nasty.
dirt_j00
Member
wditto - it could still be moved fairly easily with a handtruck.
However, if it is bolted down, then they can't just tote it off or wheel it out. It would require cutting tools, more time, etc.
However, if it is bolted down, then they can't just tote it off or wheel it out. It would require cutting tools, more time, etc.
a1abdj
Member
Our insurance company demands that we bolt down any commercial safe weighing less than 750 pounds (usually less than 30" tall), and suggest we bolt down everything up to 2,000 pounds. We suggest that all of our gun safe customers bolt their safes properly due to the lack of any substantial weight. Your 6' tall gun safe that weighs 1,000 pounds may sound heavy, but consider that a commercial quality safe of the same size could easily weigh over 5,000 pounds.
I know 12 year old girls that could move a 300 pound safe.
I know 12 year old girls that could move a 300 pound safe.
Kingcreek
Member
no issues unless you have radiant floor heat.
a1abdj
Member
Any hardware store, 3/8" or 1/2" (3/8" a lot easier to drill), and yes.
all the way
great idea, but be sure to drill all the way through the concrete, so you can pound the anchors flush with the surface if you ever move the safe. Redheads are the way to go with anchors, 'and wives'
great idea, but be sure to drill all the way through the concrete, so you can pound the anchors flush with the surface if you ever move the safe. Redheads are the way to go with anchors, 'and wives'
45crittergitter
Member
Make sure you drill your holes deep enough that the anchor bolt can be driven deeper into the hole and therefore be below flush with the surface when you decide to move the safe. Beats having to pick the safe up and move it off the bolts and then cutting the bolts off. Also, I only use stainless steel bolts for this, because they ain't coming out and I don't want them to rust in there.
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